Danm54
-
Posts
604 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Danm54
-
-
My 1100W runs cop's and as long as they're wired in series as a pair they closely match the standard single coil.
At least thats what I was led to believe, fitted mine a couple of years ago and not had any problems so far, no issues in the wet either.
Swapped the DR over too and thats the same.
-
1
-
-
What he said ^^^
Plus lets say you wheeled your bike outside in the sun, the fuel and air would warm up and expand, the only way for them to expand is out the fuel tap/outlet.
If your float valves seat well you've got yourself a pressure vessel. Especially if you've just filled up with cold fuel then parked in the sun.
Not really a reliable way of stopping fuel flow.
-
1
-
-
Slowly. Left it with John to sort out a controller for the 4.2 sensor but since the 4.9 upgrade they don't seem to be widely available.
Only way is to upgrade to the 4.9 sensor and controller which I'm happy enough to wire in but decided I wasn't paying for it. Ive spent ~£70 for a new 4.2 sensor and I'm looking at double that for the 4.9 and controller.
John said he'd order one and we'd "sort something out" on how much I'd pay. They were on back order as of late last week though but John should get it early this week.
I've been stacked out for a few weeks so I've not had any spare time anyway. Could do with sorting it out now though.
-
2
-
-
Didn't want to assume he would sort it out mate, I know he should do but its not always the way it works out.
I'll see what he says when I get back home.
-
1
-
-
Little update while I have a bit of free time.
Matt at SC confirmed there is no controller on my plug, their controllers are in the heatshrink but this isn't one of theirs. John is sure that the one he fitted did have a controller but this is the same plug and wiring as it came back with.
Obviously the easy thing would be to get a plug and controller for the 4.2 lambda but SC have stopped using them now as they've upgraded to the 4.9 lambda.
They don't have any 4.2 plugs left.
The 4.9 plug and controller with a 4.9 lambda sensor is £105 which wouldn't be so bad if I hadn't already spent ~£70 on a new 4.2 lambda sensor.
I'm away touring on the gsxr now so when I get back I'll give John a call and see if he's got a 4.2 controller.
Or maybe he'd like to buy a nearly new 4.2 lambda sensor that I don't have any use for now...
-
1
-
-
Spoke to John earlier to see if he could remember what plug was wired in and more importantly if it was a Specialist Components one.
There's nothing lambda related on the list of parts that were fitted to the bike but he's sure the plug had a controller in it.
There is a good chunk of heatshrink on it admittedly but its only hiding wires, I'm assuming I'd be able to see something else if there was a controller in there too.
-
Just called them and their plugs have a controller built in. I think the sensor is standard but the plug that wires into the ecu side has a built in controller.
I don't think the plug on mine has that controller built in.
Thats the specialist components 4.9 sensor with the controller ready to wire direct to the ecu.
The sensor and its plug look standard but the bit in the black heat shrink on the grey wire I think is the controller.
Mine is just a standard plug and grey wire.
-
Ahh, maybe it doesn't then.
It came back from John wired direct to the ecu so I'd assumed that would be correct.
You can download the pinout list from their site, there's also an install file for the tuning software too plus some base maps and a few other bits.
The pinout list says lambda1 0-5v analogue input.
The lambda wiring says 0-5v linear output for connection to ecu/gauge/datalogger.
Will call them again and see if they come up with anything else.
-
Not done that but I'll give it a go tomorrow.
The carbon in the exhaust would say it isn't that lean all the time but it'll prove whether the gauge does move or not.
-
It does list it as having a wideband controller.
I guess if thats gone up it then the ecu needs to go back.
I can't easily get to the wiring when the fuel tank is on but is it possible to measure the output voltage from the loom?
-
This is wired direct to the ecu, there's no external controller.
I've not seen any test or diagnostic function though.
-
New lambda fitted and permanent 12v off the battery sorted.
Lambda still reads 5v...
Fucked off now, I seem to be throwing money and time at this and getting nowhere.
-
Managed a few evenings on this between work and sorting the other bike for holiday.
The lambda was actually reading 1.3 lambda which is a full 5v. Tried a spare sensor but it read the same.
Called Specialist Components and he said its unusual for a lambda to fail reading 5v, they usually fail reading somewhere in the middle. It could be the controller that has failed though but check the wiring first.
Checked it out and its wired correct so I've ordered another sensor. Not sure on the chances of 2 controllers failing putting out 5v but its the only thing left to try.
The data logger is and old one and they don't have any memory on the newest ecu for it, its just always been there on the older ones.
It works to a point but they are working on a setup to log to an sd card which will be more reliable.
Had a good chat with him and I did mention that since looking at some wiring info I'd noticed mine didn't have a permanent 12v off the battery, its wired with the permanent 12v and the switched live on the starter circuit so it kills the ecu as soon as you turn off the ignition.
Its not an issue unless you map with the engine running, the ecu saves changes when the ignition is turned off but obviously mine won't do that.
I will be altering that as its just going to be a pain in the future.
Not likely to get much done on this before we head off but I'd like to get the lambda working so its ready for some mapping when we get back.
-
1
-
-
Yes I have, thought I'd posted it actually!
Mine needed a pull up resistor.
So a 12v switched live, through a 2k ohm resistor then tee'd into the rpm wire.
-
1
-
-
Made it back home fine too, went a slightly longer way back. Temp sat around 70c on the way back.
Looked at the data logs and the lambda just flatlines the whole way through so definately a problem there, I've got a spare sensor that I'll drop in and see if it actually moves.
Until thats sorted I don't want to ride too far, I need to know how its running in its stumbling spots.
-
2
-
-
Finally made its first full trip!
Only 10 miles like but it went well, took a couple of tries before it fired up and seemed to hang a little dropping to idle for the first couple of miles.
Felt like it hit a dead spot about 9k rpm on some dual carriageway so backed it off a little, will need to see whats going on up there.
Temp wise it was ok, sits about 60c doing 60mph and 70c doing 30mph. Sat at the lights I've normally stopped at (behind a police car) and the temp rose to 85c but it wasn't an issue.
Highest temp I seen was 95c as I pulled up but thats after a 30mph stretch plus a couple of junctions/lights etc.
Dropped a tooth on the front sprocket as 30mph was horrible to sit at, bought it to a nicer rpm in 2nd but the engine stutters there a bit, I've upped the fuelling a touch up to 2400rpm so it may need a little more at higher rpm and low throttle openings.
Will see if I can understand the data log.
In all I'm happy, definitely making progress.
-
2
-
-
Its passed the mot Ash, didn't make it back without breaking down though.
Once I'm on top of these heat issues I think it'll be ok.
-
Its certainly taking some hours, most of my evenings seem to be spent in the shed now.
When I picked the bike up he said 'its running lovely, you could ride it home'
Don't think I'd have got very far.
But thats what you get sometimes, I'm not happy with the amount I've paid for the tune I've got but its close enough for me to do some homework and finish it off.
Its actually not that complicated once you get into it, got to be easier than pulling carbs apart!
-
2
-
-
Yea I think they're a bit protective of it!
Put a little extra on the injector pulse up to .8% throttle opening, started good with a little tweak of the butterfly and the air bypass screw. Ran nicely up to temp and sounds better now its got some proper ignition timing.
Started fine from hot too which its always struggled with.
Will put the original rad on and put the coolant hoses back as they were then try another test ride.
-
1
-
-
Its not got the ms v3 any more, it stopped responding and nothing would bring it back. Went away from ms as they're just too trippy.
Its got a Specialist Components Typhoon ecu, good bit of kit actually.
Just got to get my head around how it works and what does what, its not that bad but its different to the ms layout and seems to work different.
-
They're about 2-3" away from each other.
I'll check what temp it reads when I get back and see if the lower temps are closer.
I'm sure I found something fuel related that changes with the coolant temp, maybe acceleration fuelling. I could fudge the numbers but its probably better to set the sensor correctly.
-
Apparently the bike went to Specialist Components to have the sensors calibrated and set in the ecu. I'm not sure if it did or not, its a fairly important sensor to set correctly and its quite a long way out. Especially as it has control of fuelling and ignition.
I can find cranking settings but no after start warm up settings, I think its set using the coolant as there's a multiplier for injector pulse width/coolant temp and also one for ignition timing/coolant temp.
There's a time after start before it allows correction but you can turn closed loop on and off so I need to confirm whether its on or off.
This isn't something I expected to have to do so I'm back on a steep fuel injection learning curve!
-
I've made some progress tonight, tried adjusting the throttle stop to control the idle and bring the timing back to normal but it didn't work, got it to 7-8 degrees but it didn't sound happy and was still running hot.
Went theough the ecu settings and found everything that that pulled the timing, so coolant temp, air intake temp and idle control. Set them all to 0 so the timing wasn't altered from the map.
Ran nicely and the coolant temp didn't shoot up as it had previously, idle was a little tricky but I have a bypass screw on the throttle body I could use if I need to.
Surprisingly the intake temp dropped by 5 degrees as well.
Let it cool off and it doesn't like starting from cold now but I'm sure I can work that out, there isn't a start up enrichment but I think I can use the coolant temp to give a little extra fuel untill its warm.
Which brings me on to another problem, the ecu reads the coolant temp some 15-20 degrees higher than it actually is, the clocks also read coolant temp and thats within a degree or 2.
Not checked the ecu readings at a lower temp but the higher end isn't right.
-
Finished re piping the rad, didn't make any difference.
Pulled the rad of the standard 1100w and tried that but I hooked the laptop up this time for a few more readings.
Note that everything is set exactly as it came back to me.
Found the actual ignition timing was hunting a bit but was down at 1-2 degrees.
I think this is partly because timing is pulled as intake temps rise its -3 at 50c which is what it is in the vid and I think the idle is controlled by spark advance. With an idle speed error of 400 (rpm I assume) its -9.5
If I'm understanding this correct thats a potential total of 12.5 degrees taken off the spark map at idle?
Let me see if I can add the vid.
Honestly, why is this site so trippy with youtube vids?
You'll have to click the link, I give up.
Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot
in Forced Induction
Posted
Still no lambda. Will call specialist components tomorrow and see whats going on.
Did manage to catch up on a couple of small bits. The butterfly bypass on the throttle body pulled air from atmosphere so made a barb to run it to the air box.
Used the outlet off my broken scottoiler for the air box connection, perfect fit and saved making one.
Once my barb was threaded it went in nicely.
Actually made it the wrong way around as the thread should have been cut while it was still in the lathe.
I didn't have an M6 die though so took it round a mates to do. Left a couple of witness marks where it was clamped in his lathe but its ok.
I also turned the threaded part to exactly 6mm which I was dead impressed with but it threads easier if its .05mm down apparently and sure enough the od of the thread is 5.95mm.
Still learning things!