Danm54
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Posts posted by Danm54
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I've got one for a DR350 that I think someone on here liked to. Only info on it says coloured by hus.
Googling it though, Kojaycat sell them laminated for £7.50
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34 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
These have a good rep - haven't used personally so can't recommend! https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/services/motorcycle-shock-absorber-repairs/suzuki-gsxr1100-shock-absorber-rebuild-repair-service/
They do have prices and menu of potential extra's - hope that helps!
I used them a few years ago for a DR350 shock rebuild, can't fault them.
A friend used them earlier in the year as well with no problems.
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Seen it on a second hand motor I bought, don't know how long it had been sitting or whether they were genuine friction plates though.
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I've used a heat mat under the tank on the turbo 1100w, the tank and frame still get warm but I'm assuming it actually does something to help keep the tank cool.
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33 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
Just out of interest, what pitch was the front sprocket and did it clear everything or did you have shave a little off?
Its a 530 sprocket, went straight on without any problems
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That settles it then!
I'd looked at gearing commander but only used a 180/55 tyre, using a 60 bumps the speed up a good amount.
Using the buell rear wheel the smallest rear sprocket I can use is 42t, I've got a 17t on the front but can't find an 18t, don't know if it'll fit either.
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I've not worked it out but a friend has and there is a benefit to use 1st from the 750 box. Not sure how much though.
I'll be trying it with the sprockets first obviously but I may as well look into the possibility of swapping gears to see if it can be done or not.
If it's not possible/worth the effort I'll be buying spare clutch plates...
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Can they be shimmed though?
I have an 1100 gearbox but nt a 750 to compare them.
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I know you can fit the 750 w gearbox to the 1100 cases but can you just swap say 1st and 2nd from the 750 into the 1100?
I'm on a quest for 200mph and the 1100 will only do it with tall sprocket gearing.
Thinking that swapping in a 750 gear or 2 will give it an easier time pulling away.
Thoughts?
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Measured the stand on the standard 1100 w and it's about 240mm from the foot to bolt centre. I'll need to drag it out for an accurate measurement.
The one on the oil cooled frame is 260mm from foot to centre though so I'm not sure what it came off now, definitely standard Suzuki though.
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Watercooled side stand is about 1" longer I think and a straight bolt on.
I can measure up later if you need.
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Welded up now and I put a little brace in there too. I'll keep an eye on this but hopefully that should sort it out now.
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37 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Totally agree with your diagnosis - Its a bit of weight hanging on a relatively weakly attached tube, add in vibration and bumps and classic weld cracking. Either plate over the junction or add a flange brace between the two pipes - i'd add multiple TIG passes to build up joint section.
Thanks for the advice, I'll dig some stainless out and see if I can make something to spread the load better.
Definitely build the joint up as well, should be easy to get a good fillet in there.
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Cracked on the pipe to the wastegate, it's opened up a bit so it may have been under a bit of strain. Will put a bit of support on it as well while it's off.
Lent my tig to a mate so need to go and get it back.
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Need to fill a crack!
Not too bad a job, headers should come off easily enough.
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Had a ride out to Caffeine & Machine on Sunday, was their Built Not Bought weekend so fitted in nicely.
Rides great and forgot how good the boost is!
Noticed a slight ticking from the top/front of the engine a few miles from home, sounds a bit like a loose header again as it was hardly noticeable but needs checking out.
Hopefully nothing too serious.
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On 4/10/2019 at 2:16 PM, Simbec1863 said:
I've used hiflo for a while now, sometimes when I've been lazy I've even left it on for 2 years..
and just dropped the oil instead on the slabby.When I took it off last year it didn't look any different to when I changed it yearly, and it was used on the road and track days.I wouldn't recommend my behaviour
just saying i think they're ok.
My 1100W only gets a filter every 2 years, its a fairing and Akra headers off job to change it and frankly I can't be arsed to do it every year.
With the milage I do then every 2 years is fine.
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With my 1 cold start a day I've managed to get it to start, warm up, and restart from hot with no throttle.
It likes the ignition timing about 17 degrees when its cold, dropping to 12 once the coolant is at 40 degrees. Fuel enrichment has stayed the same.
Not quite as easy as setting a simple warm up ignition map. Under idle control there are 2 tables that control the ignition timing, one is coolant based and the other rpm.
They don't quite allow the engine to reach the target rpm so I need to dig a little deeper but it's a positive step.
Cranking timing was 0 degrees so played with that a little and it's happy at 16 from every temperature I've tried.
Need to ride it now to see if it's cured it's habit to cut out when it comes to a stop.
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Dragged this out the garage and loaded the old map on it, still need to sort the boost gauge out but it's now got an mot.
Think it's running a little rich on idle and sooting up so I've dropped a bit of fuel on idle and started to set the idle control up. Sounds nicer and idles smoother.
Will keep tweaking the idle/cold start tune until it starts without throttle from cold.
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I think it's just got a bit of foam in it.
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2 hours ago, Arttu said:
I haven't had any real problems with mapping on inertia dynos. It helps if the roller is quite heavy so the pulls don't get too short on high power. And some proper brake is nice too as you will be braking down the roller quite often.
From what I've read, the heavier the drum the better for bigger bikes.
Got some spare landy discs and calipers lying about so will look at mounting one of those on it too.
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9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
The stuff came from John Williamson aka 'Dynoman' way back in the late 80's, early 90's - he's says its ok for 'high power' bikes but the way mine used to spin up on a load braked dyno i'm not so sure. What ecu control are you using?
Using a Specialist Components Typhoon 2 ecu. It's a pretty good ecu to be fair, seems to cover every option and more.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
If you want details,i've plans for a plain inertia type dyno although wouldn't recommend it for mapping as the load cannot be controlled sufficiently. PM me an email address if you would like the files - can't vouch for the operation, it's a pretty old design!
PM on its way.
Was hoping inertia type would be good enough to get a rough map sorted before taking it out.
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14 hours ago, Leblowski said:
Not very promising but you wil get this sorted !!
You really don’t need a dyno to get your bike running right, i did all my tuning on the streets laptop in my backpack.
Once you get this sorted you shall see al the trouble was worthied
How close was your fuel map before you went out on the streets?
1100 WP Colour wiring schematic ?
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
I've got a pdf of the watercooled manual, I'll have a look tomorrow and see how clear the diagrams are.