Gammaboy

That looks lovely. You didn't have to touch the paint did you?

I'd be looking at the coil, 2 and 3 share one coil, 1 and 4 the other.

I've had the opposite problem, it's been 40+ degrees C in the shed....

Hah, yeah, being one of Oily's (which explains the carbon half of the airbox) yours has been well looked after at least up until the point it sat, mine (well, the main part) got dropped off it's side stand at some point, got bought from the insurers and say as a parts donor at one of the Bimota importers. Anyway, after 4 years of not having the bike to be able to work on it, I'm finally getting back onto it, and remembering where I was up to....

I think one of Oily's other bikes showed up worth a new owner on one of the bimota faceache pages? I think he may have passed away at some point?

2000 year model? It would have been built 97 at the absolute latest, SB6R ran 97-99... Can I ask what frame number? I think this makes 7 SB6 owners on here Sibag, Evil chicken, BimotaMartyn, ArcanumOne, Angry and myself being the others.

Haha, so didn't actually fit the gasket untill a couple of days before Christmas. Had planned on getting a fair bit done over the Christmas/New Years break, but between the shitty, stinking hot weather, and all the other (non Bike related) shit I wound up doing, I didn't actually touch it... However, holy shit, I did work on it today. Pulled the seat unit and tank, dropped the top of the radiator and swapped out the coolant pipe that had the buggered chrome that I rattle canned with black Killrust with a new old stock unit I'd picked up. Thankfully, past me had made a point of lining up all the hose clamps so I could actually get at them. Of course, this particular pipe never sees daylight, but I know it's there.... Also swapped the mounting bracket and heatshield across from the stock cans to the factory "race" cans - tips certainly fill the hole a bit better, but I forgot to take a pic.

Aaaaaand the answer is the gasket was there, everything was untouched... the bit of black sealant was from the Suzuki casebond goo that had extruded out and then been squished during installation of the cover. Anyway, 4 degree advanced rotor fitted, new gasket arrives Thursday.

So last night I was digging through my boxes of stuff I picked up while I was in Euwrop, and realised there was an ignition advancer there... so had a quick look at the cover and realised the factory gasket was not there, which struck me as odd for the low mileage this thing has... what's the bet that when I whip the cover off, there will be a Yosh ignition rotor in there? Ordered a gasket, will pull the cover to have a look tonight. Stay tuned for tomorrow's episode!

So, almost 4 years after dropping it off to be stored at my mate's place, I picked it up yesterday and dragged it home. Good/funny to see it again after 4 years. Guess I better get cracking!

94/95 uses a larger swingarm pivot bolt. The usual trick when fitting the braced arm to an earlier bike is to use the early bearing inner and spacer inside the later bearings and spacer. Obviously this won't work going the other way, the only way I can think to make it work is having threaded adaptors machined to adapt the early pivot bolt to the later frame. As mentioned, the head braces have to be discarded or cut and shut for an 1100 or RF900 bottom end swap (allegedly this will make it floppier than a WN, as the frame wall thickness was reduced on the WP). Early 1100W engines don't have the boss for the head braces.

All the talk of decking is in relation to the bandit liner/1360cc set-up. Nope, 1075 cases need clearancinh for 1135 liners. The bandit liners are shorter than the stock ones, so them sitting 3mm lower is not an issue. If you're skimming 3mm off the flange of the liner, you have about a mm of flange thickness left from memory, which has been shown to be marginal. You have to bore the block for the larger liner flanges anyway, so might as well do it deeper and keep the flange thickness.

I'm wrong on the difference in carb settings being Mk1/MK2 - E-04 is French market, which got neutered cams (as opposed to the inlet restrictions that some markets got).

1150 liners are bigger OD (hence the bigger over bores that are available)

Have the block skimmed before the liners go in, skimming the top once they're in is easiest, but gets a bit thin on the liner flanges. Skimming the bottom is a pain in the bollocks once the liners are in.