Oilyspanner
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Posts posted by Oilyspanner
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Hmmm - very nice ! - not all yours surely ?
Mind you, a chap does need a hobby . . . .
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Nikos - I've just re-read your post. I see you've not bought a dynojet kit and were actually trying to sort out the jetting by looking at their spec sheet for a stage 3 kit.
Don't use their settings without having their whole kit. You have Mikuni carbs, so better to buy Mikuni jets and fit those. Start afresh. You'll need a size up or so on the pilots and quite a few up on the mains (sorry I haven't got a 750)if . The problem will come with the jet needle, you'll probably find that even lifting the needle right up won't make that circuit rich enough and will need a thinner needle - it's this problem that makes people buy jet kits - stage ones are easy, stage threes not so because of the jet needle.
You could see how close you can get by upping pilot and main jet sizes and lifting the needle up - perhaps someone could tell you what pilot and main jets they're using - someone !
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Are there any other markings ? I think 27A is just the basic casting, the k/j etc don't mean much on their own - it doesn't relate to Suzuki years - there's normally other letters and numbers, I think it's those that might tell you a little more. Mine are easy, they've got 41C on them which relates to the 1100M/N models.
You could measure the lobes and take off the base diameter - the heights can be related to the manual (Haynes) figures.
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Takes a while to bounce on the front or rear end and tell what needs to be done Ferg - but basically if you quickly push it down and it recovers very quickly you need more rebound. If the oil in the forks is old, chances are you will have little rebound adjustment in the front as the oil gets thinner with use. Best set spring sag first though - like this http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm
From there use the adjuster to correct the action, to slow down the action or quicken it, start from the middle point of adjustment. I have a test route when I set-up suspension, this helps to confirm the changes work properly. Good luck, you'll get there Bud !
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Bandits have extra output shaft bearing and are set-up for wider rear rim. The 2nd gear is stronger too, I don't know if it's all years of Bandit though.
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15/48 - short 'n' sweet !
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I can think of a couple of things Nikos - with dynojet kits you have to use their main jets they are different to Mikuni or Keihin jets and the jet needle will be sized for them, I'm guessing the 'k' jets are Keihin ?. As you have said the power jet system is only to be used with the airbox fitted , hence the bungs in the kit.
Probably best to get new plugs, some more dynojet main jets. You are definitely running rich by the sound of it - too rich starts off better and gets worse with heat and the reverse for lean conditions. Are your float heights definitely set right, they make a big difference at the top and bottom end of revs - if they're a couple mm out the bike will run BAD !
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Thanks KM - I hadn't !!! - but there will be other bits - so thanks for that Buddy !
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Cheers chaps - I placed an order with Suzuki GB online, they actually worked out pretty decent on price if you spend over £75, you get free delivery then, much better than their £5 delivery on each item before that !
I've bought all new seals for intake rubbers, I'll be having a bit of detail porting done and new seals/gaskets for all other necessary parts. I bought new valve springs too, I found a really good price for oem items, even with vat added on they were £40 cheaper than here - I thought as I was spending money on the top end it would be a good insurance. I was going to buy Ti retainers, but the price is high and with me keeping the original cams anyway, it was an expense for only a slight help. I'll check the valve guides when the head's off - it's low mileage though and a look inside the ports with a torch showed that everything looked surprisingly new, all very clean.
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Hi V8T - project's looking good !
The standard Slingshot 1100s didn't handle brilliantly when new, years on with saggy old suspension will make things worse. But it's easy enough to make them handle much better with better suspension parts, I fitted a Nitron shock in the rear and resprung and refurbished the forks - with set-up the suspension is very decent now.
If you fit 750 forks (showa) they are 35mm shorter than the standard 1100 forks (kayaba), I'm not sure if you can mixt he internals. If you fit 750 forks (or pretty much any others) you can't mount the handlebars above the top yoke, you would also need to fit a 750 fairing and bracket, so the new bars don't foul the fairing.
The Bandit as you know, has soft cams, you can fit 1986 - 90 GSXR1100 cams or the 1988/89 750 cams - they both seem to have the same duration and lift - these will let the motor fly from mid range upward. The Bandit motor has lower compression than the R too, you could mill the head to lift the compression, which will help performance everywhere.
Some people like to just add the GSXR inlet cam, which adds a lot pretty much everywhere, but the motor won't rev out and it'll peak lower than both R cams.
Hope that makes sense, I'm in a rush !
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Pretty sure it's a late GSX750F engine (non teapot shape) - if it's got 749cc stamped at the bottom of the barrels it should confirm it.
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The 1100s have longer forks (35mm) to allow the clip ons to sit above the top yoke. The 1100s also have a different top fairing to allow for the extra height of the bars..
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All as above - as Nightrider has asked, is it full throttle and higher revs (mains) - more mid-range use (needle) ?
If it has a stage 3 Dynojet - remember the jet sizes are different to Mikuni and you can't mix them.
This is the carb setting up bible.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
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Ha, you're not wrong SRR - at work we threw away loads of old stuff in the skip, silencers, screens etc the stores were only so big and the parts just sat there for years . . . eeek !
Not so bad with e-bay these days, everything can be listed instead of throwing out because of lack of space - couldn't give the stuff away back then as you say, they all wanted coloured screens, double bubbles, race pipes (obviously !) etc - but now it would fetch £1000s !
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You can! Plus there's another over-bore when it goes 'pete tong'
Ha ! there is that G1460!!
I've seen some really nice 1186 motors on the dyno J1B, seems quite a nice size for light/moderate tuning - seems a safe size to bore the 1127 barrels too and there is that over size if all goes Pete Tong !
Trouble is now that I've seen a company in Melksham that has a Serdi machine to work wonders for increased seat flow and a bit of valve reprofiling - maybe not, the Wife thinks I just bought a few 'trinkets' for the bike as it is. . . she'll get wise when the engine's out and the head/barrels are off !
Hell it's easy to spend money on your bike - good fun though !
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Bandit will be better, reasons as above, plus the Bandit had an extra output shaft bearing for the longer shaft required for the 180 tyre - heads are pretty similar, although with such a big motor, with a big block, you'll need to port it anyway/fit larger valves etc to get the best out of it.
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I know where you're coming from Crass - I waited a year before a standard screen came up for my 1100, got it pretty cheap - ironically I'm leaving the MRA d.bubble on mine ! but standard screens aren't going to get any more common and I intend to have a more standard 1100 some time in the future.
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Cheers G1460 - yep, the oil still goes up the studs, so I'll replace those seals - do the seals in the return pipes at the front of the block (head to sump) need doing too ? I guess as you say, not replacing isn't worth it if you have to rip it apart again !
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I'm gradually understanding the various things I've got to do when I fit the bored block and piston kit - checking piston clearance, ring gap etc. What I can't find out is - do you have to buy all new oil seals, base gasket etc ? - or is there anything you can reuse ?
Many thanks - Oily
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Diamond files and plenty of eldow grease.
Easy done but it does take time cause yea, they're hard as hell!
Thanks for the warning chaps ! - few things worthwhile are easy - best part of £60 for APE slotted wheels, I can put up with a lot of elbow grease for that !!
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Yes worth doing only need to get your cam wheels slotted and a few basic tools made up.
But it does take time to do.
Thanks Bud, makes sense to slot my own cam wheels , I'll give it a go . . . I'll fit everything over winter, plenty of time to use up there !!
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A few of you on here might've seen the Wiseco piston kit and ready bored barrels on a certain bidding web site (I always look for anything interesting) I've just pressed the BUY button - I just couldn't resist it for £400.
Many of you have already fitted kits to your bikes, so it'll be good to join the club.
I just hope that my bike hasn't got a kit fitted already, it didn't show anything in it's partial history, but it does feel very' fit' for what I've done . .
Will be nice to own a GSXR 1186 N - I'm keeping the bike, so it'll be another interesting evolution of the old girl. I haven't got the extra money to have the head flowed at the moment, but maybe in a year or so - an old work colleague has done a bit of work on some Oilers (including a classic TT bike), I'll have to drop in some time !
Was it worth dialling in your cams ? - being a shim head, I'll be keeping the cams standard to be safe, but wondered what others felt about accurately checking the cams.
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Top man Quist !
Looking forward to the evolution of your bike
My 1100N isn't going anywhere either, it looks great, feels great and has charisma - a bike that you've worked on, improved always means more to you.
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Lovely bike Quist ! - glad to see it's still used as was intended.
I'm sure you've thought about this already, but my thoughts would be :
The standard wheels are pretty heavy, later wheels will save a kilo or two (keep std 5.5 rear rim size) - with the 750 you can either fit a whole front end from a 600/750, complete with radial brakes (k6 - on would be a bit nice !) - or fit the lighter and better performing late forks in your yokes . I saved a lot of weight by fitting a Lithium battery, over 3 kilos, dropping some weight off the bike is always a good thing and very noticeable when riding it like a sports bike .
Keep up the good work - Oily
1200 into GSX750 Inazuma
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Some good info Madax, I reckon there're a few interested in this idea, me included - the idea of the smart little 750 with a good breathing 1127 sounds very interesting !