Oilyspanner
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Posts posted by Oilyspanner
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11 hours ago, coombehouse said:
I would try http://www.ignitech.cz/en/ for something similar at a reasonable price. They do a fully programmable ignition, Sparker TCIP4 for 141 Euro. I used one for a couple of years before I bought a Microsquirt. Worked well.
Nick
Good link, have saved to favourites for future use - thanks
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Euro bikes should have BST38 carbs standard - if the 36mm carbs were set up for the bike, they should work fine. Any carb can be altered to a different bike pretty much, but it can involve a lot of trial and error to get it right re. BDSR carbs, spacing will be different too.
Thinking about it, the BST36 carbs could be quite good without the airbox, air velocity will be up a bit and help with set-up and low to mid-range running. If you had the std 38mm carbs you could order a stage 3 jet kit that works well enough without too much effort.
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Like the R's they have a separate regulator and rectifier on the alternator - they can be changed independently, which one's gone wrong ? they can be tested - pretty sure they're the same part number as Slingshot 1100s. Edit - they are the same numbers - just had a look ! rect. 3162127A00 reg. 32502227A00
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9 hours ago, ads54 said:
You don't mention which bike but most are M10 (1.25 pitch) x 30mm
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Spot on for Slingies.
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No bad thing FBOB - an exhaust will lose a load of weight, free up a stack of ponies (especially on M/Ns) and it'll be a good bit of fun to ride and do the odd classic track-day - I was going to say about refreshing the suspension etc, but you know all that stuff anyway . . . . . . happy days !
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Lovely 1100N !!!
Looks good FBOB - more details required, looks very nice, but miles on it, what's been done to it etc - plans for it ?
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Wow Astralites, I wanted some myself back then. A tough one with the rivets, resistance might be one way, but the unknown is at what level is safe ? I can see the solution being a bit expensive, anyone who works on them will want to make sure they're safe by doing a very thorough job. The wheels must have a decent value though and worth looking after.
Someone on here must've had the same wheels refurbed ?
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I'm just rubbish at waiting when I get the urge to do a job ! - it's normally at night and I want to get everything finished, I'll willingly spend to help with convenience. My old place of work will swap the shims for nothing, but it's a 36 mile round trip and as I said I'm impatient !
Happy Christmas Chaps and may all your projects turn out wonderful in the New Year !
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Yep, Kokolis calls it right - there's a lot more to it than peak piston speeds . . . the stock 1100s rev limiter is at a true 10.8k, although it'll be indicating well over 11.5k, even the 750s didn't hit the high numbers on the tacho. The OC motor is a big strong motor and that's the thing, all it's internals are bigger than current high revving engines. Not mention the heat !
Good motors these old OC engines, but you need to play to their strengths, increase capacity and efficiency and you'll be okay.
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18 hours ago, Slabby11 said:
Very interested in where this goes as i have 750J forks on my slabby and want to change to get the bars above the yokes. I bought a set of 1100K forks and made some enquiries and was told that the 11 forks are an older damper rod design and would need major modifications to get them as good as the 750 forks so at the moment they're in the "useful - but i don't know where" pile. Is there a cartridge conversion available anywhere?
Slabby forks were damper rod , the 1100K had cartridge, which were too stiff on the damping settings as standard . As Doug says, 750 K forks are Showa and the 1100s are Kayaba and not as compliant. Maxton (Ron Williams )used to alter the 1100K forks to work very well. With the longer swing-arm use the after market L/M/N spring rates - I can't remember what mine is of hand. 1100 Slingshots can be altered to handle well, perhaps not ultra sharp, but really reliable - I used to find my GSXR1000s almost too keen to dive into corners and make even a spirited ride not the experience it should've been, good on the track though.
Junking the standard exhaust , fit a lighter system and fitting lighter wheels helps the handling loads too - the curved spoke wheels are very heavy, the later straight spoke wheels give a very useful saving.
Keep us informed Doug, your project will work nicely. Suzuki didn't quite finish off the Slingshot 1100s, with more care to suspension and cutting weight they would've had loads of good press, not the pasting they mostly took.
Oily
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I think it was getting on for £80 with VAT added on when it arrived from the US John - only £40 out there I think, hell of a lot cheaper than here anyway (there were a couple places over here that were about £85). . . . if you know someone out there it would save you lots if you had them sent on as a present - actually everything is cheap out there !
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I think all the 1127 Rs can be V711, my N is one too, even though it has a few revisions - head, extra bearing and longer out-put shaft.
I think you could be right about slightly different mods though Captn - I've seen an N with a v712 engine code for example, different market possible ?
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Hope you find it Bud, was the 750 turbo yours as well ?
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9.48mm - I bought a service box. by hot cams - makes servicing dead easy.
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You did all that for 3hp more than this - 1186cc, std M head and cams, CV carbs and a DIY 4-2-1 pipe.
Beautiful curve G1460, I'm a big fan of the 1100 M/N head, if you're not planning to add hairy cams of course - they flow well and are designed to work with the big 40mm cv carbs - of course it could be your DIY exhaust !
I forgot to add - the oiler motors are better at producing torque than power at very high revs - as has been said 150 - 160 comes easy enough with an 1100 with some work, the beauty is the instant pick-up from almost any revs.
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Cheers Capt - I'll be putting it there then, doesn't sound too bad a job either - smart !
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I've bought the relay Nick, but fitting it will have to wait until I finish several projects I've started - fitting Foxeye Blade headlight (making it look factory fit), building aluminium fairing brace, making aluminium mudguard/number plate support, making exhaust hanger bracket and seat lock for other side - plus the fitting of the big bore kit I bought a month or two ago !!! - busy winter.....
I think you, like me are wondering where best to fit the relay, for cable access and protection from the elements - jonny_1bump did this mod originally I think - you out there J1B ?
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do the mod as described in the link I posted. Costs almost nothing.
If the wiring has resistance (very likely for a 25 year old bike) a new generator is not going to help.
Thanks for bringing this mod up again Captain, I'd forgotten about it. I'm going to do this mod ,my loom seems okay at present, voltage seems okay - but I have a LiFePO4 battery which I don't want to damage.
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rare?
in Oil Cooled
Too good to part out, worth more as a whole - you'd get little more than for a tatty bike as parts.and double that for the whole thing - from the pic that bike would be snapped up by someone who likes GSXRs.
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I think it depends how much you've tuned your engine really. Bigger pistons will move more air around beneath the pistons for example , or on a tuned engine that revs harder- on a big block I think it's near a must, but for a standard (ish) engine there's little need for extra venting. Most OC bikes have the vent on the cam cover.
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Do you mean 1074 w/c rods ? - 1127 and 1157 are the same. The w/c rods are same length and pretty sure have the same sized big end/ small end, I haven't fitted them myself - many have used these rods, they are slightly lighter and stronger, so are an up-grade.
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Some good info Madax, I reckon there're a few interested in this idea, me included - the idea of the smart little 750 with a good breathing 1127 sounds very interesting !
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Hmmm - very nice ! - not all yours surely ?
Mind you, a chap does need a hobby . . . .
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Nikos - I've just re-read your post. I see you've not bought a dynojet kit and were actually trying to sort out the jetting by looking at their spec sheet for a stage 3 kit.
Don't use their settings without having their whole kit. You have Mikuni carbs, so better to buy Mikuni jets and fit those. Start afresh. You'll need a size up or so on the pilots and quite a few up on the mains (sorry I haven't got a 750)if . The problem will come with the jet needle, you'll probably find that even lifting the needle right up won't make that circuit rich enough and will need a thinner needle - it's this problem that makes people buy jet kits - stage ones are easy, stage threes not so because of the jet needle.
You could see how close you can get by upping pilot and main jet sizes and lifting the needle up - perhaps someone could tell you what pilot and main jets they're using - someone !
bmw1000rr shock in a slingshot
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Pretty sure 2009 - 2013 shocks are fine for length. Definitely not the 2015 and electronic assist ones. Don't pay too much - they're decent, but the first thing a track dayer does is get rid of the shock - they need money spent on them to work well, lack of rebound damping in particular. Better than our old units though.
There are some e- blag sellers taking the P with their prices, £500 for a several thousand miler !!! A decent after market Nitron/Maxton/Wilbers/WP etc is far better around that price. You can get units for not too much from the Continental sellers normally.