FJD
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Posts posted by FJD
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These quick needle change tops are very nice, you see them on race bikes like OW01 and GSX-R RK.
Usually, they go hand in hand with a central fuel release fitting, where you can change main jets, without having to unscrew whole float chamber.
Do you want to sell the carbs or use them ?
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Could get my hands on one of these brand new (looks chinese altough ...), and was wandering if it might be of use for a 600 or 750 blow through application.
Does anyone have a flow map ?
Could not find any on Google
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Dont want to ruin your evening, but..
You forgot the chain too
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WOW - what a cool bike !
I'd leave it as it is
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Cool bike - i can see a challenge !
For Oil filling you might need a 5 year old, to get his hands within the frame rails to open up the filler cap
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I did cut out the flattened parts, reshaped them, and welded them in again on mild steel yoshimura systems.
Piece of cake
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On 8/22/2021 at 4:55 PM, Screwriverracing said:
And here it is
Looks expensive $$$$$
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You need to weld them up, to get from 0.7 clearance to 0.40 .......
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Just resleeve the can, dont know about the midpipe
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2 hours ago, clivegto said:
It's a Harris man.
Ahh - now i see - there´s even a sticker on it that tells it
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Never understood why people BUY stickers (or even paint a bike with commercial advertising) and put them on their own stuff, to advertise for someone elses business.
Maybe to inform the unknown onlooker what he is looking at ?
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Hi, i want to fit a slimmer chain kit, original is 630, and i´ve seen 530 as well.
But i want even slimmer, as today´s chains are way stronger than back in the day.
I did not find anything suitable yet - any recommendations ?
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Damn.....it hurts when you read questions like this.
No sane person drills and taps the rubbers, unless they want to stuff NOS foggers in there.
Just use a bit of imagination, to see where the carb rubber is mounted, and use the same screw to hold that strap on.
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Show us ;-)
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2 minutes ago, FJD said:
Get some actual jets in there (i found some reference online when i converted mine years ago - do your research- link above is great !!!!!), then reduce main jet size approx by 2.5-5 increments.
Will crisp up your fuelling, they come on song approx in the last third of rev-range, and are worth it.
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Get some actual jets in there (i found some reference online when i converted mine years ago - do your research), then reduce main jet size approx by 2.5-5 increments.
Will crisp up your fuelling, they come on song approx in the last third of rev-range, and are worth it.
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Yeah...and you could speak some prayers on a graveyard around midnight too....don't believe in that BS - ditzing in water won't do nothing to your carbs, maybe the screws get rusty - thats all.
Do it properly !
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+2 on this subject, the bigger hole will be difficult to keep tight
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I had these headers on my Yamaha, and they were absolutely great, and gave very good power too
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I would try to get it running first - rusty valve seats maybe
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There is no need to only have two S's.....i have three of them.
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Just bought a set of new 78 mm MTC pistons intended for a kwaker GPZ - they have 17mm pins, i will get them machined to 18 mm to fit the GS
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the GS 1000 here is a 2-valve head
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How to build more oil pressure when installing a ward top end oiler
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Can you please post a picture - im very interested.