FJD
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Posts posted by FJD
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Yes, i was assuming that.
Although it is always advised, to tune the carbs the best you can, preferably with O2 Sensor etc
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Then your jet kit is a waste of time and money, just rebuild with oem mikuni parts
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Dirt in the fuel from a rusty tank blocking the pilot jets ?
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Seems like a lot of work, but i am sure it will be worth it
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Yes, i came across them too, and the 70.3mm reminded me of your engine.
I am pretty sure that Cosworth made pistons for Yoshimura back in the day.
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18 hours ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
The buyers agent is in Japan and that's what he does, builds and refurbishes oil cooled engines only. We could have done it until I sold all the 70.3mm works pistons we would have needed for the job.
Do you need some of these Cosworth pistons ?
#PA 0866 ?
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Thanks for sharing the pictures !
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I just stuck the draw through turbo kit on my Bandit, and after starting it up, i noticed an oil leak over the alternator/cables.
Looks like the oil comes out under the V-Belt of the hot side on the turbo housing.
Also the drain is not at the very bottom of the turbo, which made me think about turning the middle section - can this be done ?
Never worked on a turbo before.
from the pictures it may be not obvious, but the oil drain points towards the rear shock mounting frame brace, and not to the 6 o´clock position.
I wonder what it should look like, and if ths may be the reason for my oil leak.
In the feed pipe i have a carb jet restriction #125
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Welcome back !
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i was checking these sites:
https://thunderproducts.com/product/thunder-powerjet/
https://thunderproducts.com/product/remote-float-bowl/
espescially the remote float bowl caught my eye, as basically you could double the available fuel volume, or provide a resource for the additional fuel needed when the Thunderjet starts sucking
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On 12/18/2015 at 9:19 AM, Leblowski said:
I know but the bike didnt do 270 when it was owned by gjg as far as i know
so if you have all the bits just put it back but install a thunderjet to get midrange good
changing the place of the carb wont change anything in how the bike runs on low rpm it al comes down to tuning
there nothing wrong in how it was designed and installed by gjg
as they say Never change a winning team
Hi, i know it´s an old thread but i am building a draw through 1216 Bandt at the moment, and thinking about fuel delivery.
I will go with HSR carb, and was checking the Thunderjet page, i think this is the way to go.
What caught my attention was the thought to have a second float bowl just for the Thunderjet fuel delivery - does anyone have experience or records of using that ?
Looks really promising to me !
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That carb stand looks really nice, can you post some more pictures ?
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Over here in Austria you pay a lot more for machining work, because there are only a few companies doing this
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i dont have the right devices to do it myself
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So, my Bandit 1157 block is now bored to accept the used Haybusa GSX-R 1300 pistons.
Was a challenge for the machine shop, the sleeves came loose and needed to be pressed out, glued in again.
Now i´m scratching my head for piston ring end gaps of the standard Suzuki piston rings that came with the pistons (they are used, but look OK to me).
All 4 pistons measured identical, also all ring end gaps on top and 2nd ring i measured in the bore are 0,25mm.
As this engine will get boosted, i was wandering if that is OK or if i need more end gap (@Blower1: are you referring to Std Busa pistons and rings, or aftermarket ?)
Wiseco and JE have more gap, but as this is a OEM piston and ring, i don´t know what to do right now.
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When shifting up and down is it disengaging properly or not ?
Usually downshifting is more critical.
I have a YZF 1000 with a problematic clutch as well, this is a really annoying problem.
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If the engine has been on the shelf for ages, and you dont know milage, you are better off taking head off.
That way, you can clean up valves, and install new valve guide seals, as the old ones will definitly be hardened out.
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Cant contribute, but is that already with camchain tensioner in ?
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I've built a few engines over the years, but never re-used a head gasket so far.
I know they have a few layers, and are held together with these pressed rings(rivets, eyelets etc).
But i have never seen these rivets for sale, neither any sort of reconditioning spray paint, so i'm curious to find out about it.it's never too late to learn though
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So....waiting for details....what rivets ?
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On 9/16/2022 at 4:06 AM, george 1100 said:
The MLS ones can be pulled apart by removing rivets, cleaned, light copper spray, rivet back together and off you go
Can you explain furthermore about the riveting ?
I've never seen the MLS gasket disassembled, repainted ?, and re-riveted.
What rivets do you use ?
And what paint ?
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Is it sparking ?
New plug ?
Otherwise check the carb
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Big bore?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Damn, nice looking girl