PaintItBlack

Yes, agreed The studs were quite damaged from the pipe wrench, but in my case I had no intention to reuse them, and all other methods of trying to get them out had failed, it was a last resort

I found a pipe wrench worked for me when I was doing my gs thou,

Running that rich at idle makes me think the air passages in the mouth of the carb could be blocked, or possibly a previous owner fitted air correctors in them, to run pods , do you have the airbox fitted ? the very fine tips on the fuel screws , the ones that fit underneath the carbs can break off , causing problems, but you say you replaced them

Thanks, feeling a lot more confident about not using the airbox, Twin pods had been my plan from the start ,but a few threads from guys that couldn’t sort their jetting had me questioning that decision

Thanks, I’ll give that a go before splashing out on a dynojet kit, I’ve got a similar exhaust setup to you, so could be pretty close, long way off setting up the carbs yet though, but knowing it should run well without the airbox is a big help

Thank you chaps that’s very helpful, and the answer I was hoping for I’ll not waste anymore time trying to shoehorn the airbox into a space that it don’t want to go

Thanks, nice looking bike you got there was it a real pain to jet correctly? did you have to use a dynojet kit ? edit: just spotted your not not using stock carbs

I’m modifying a B12, which has included making up a new subframe, my plan had always been to run a couple of K+n pod filters, after reading through a few threads it seems the carbs can be very difficult to setup with pods, and some guys have given up and refitted the airbox, begining to wonder if my plan to fit pods is such a good idea, thing is with the new subframe the airbox isn’t going back in unless I fabricate a new lid to fit between the frame rails, is that a better route than trying to get pods to work, ive rejetted a few carbs before, but not cv type carbs, and I’ve got an innovate air/fuel gauge which would take a lot of guesswork out of the job, I do prefer the idea of pods, but can they be made to work well, or should I start making up a new airbox lid ? thanks for any replies

Thanks for the reply and taking a measurement, made some adjustments and now have 165mm clearance, may be able to safely grab another 10mm, which I think would get closer to achieving the look I’m going for, currently the bike has the original clapped out shock fitted, but won’t have by the time I’ve finished this build, thinking maybe hyperpro, they seem to be a good shock for the money

I’m modifying a ‘99 mk1 1200 bandit, I’ve built a new subframe top rail and adding seat from a 900 bonneville, need to know what the rear wheel travel is so I don’t whack the underside of the seat when on full compression, a bit of research suggests it’s 135mm wheel travel from fully extended to fully compressed, but I think that’s for newer models than mine, can anyone confirm if my bike would be the same ? currently have about 180mm with back wheel off the ground to underside of seat, would suit me better if I could safely lower the seat another 25-30mm thanks