eddiegsx
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Posts posted by eddiegsx
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3 minutes ago, johnr said:
suzuki couldnt get the vm32's through the strict north american emissions test so american spec 1000's had cv's the same as the 1100's.
19 minutes ago, Fazz711 said:Some markets had CV carbs.
Think the yanks had CV maybe others to.
It would appear you're both correct gentlemen, I was looking at images of USA spec Kat's and they all had CV carbs, well I never knew that! As the saying goes, everyday a schoolday. Thanks for clearing that one up
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6 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
didn't they do a limited run of the 1000's ? a lot less than the rest !!!
Correct Tony, they were a homologation run to qualify under international superbike racing rules which at the time was restricted to 1000cc.
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Looks cool, are they the correct carbs for the 1000cc model? They came out of the factory sporting vm32's, round slide carbs if my memory is serving me correctly, nevertheless still a great find
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59 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
It will and if you think a bit of polyurethane foam, that isn't directly in the firing line of a 630 chain travelling at 100mph, will do any good in that respect, you best buy a lottery ticket!
I was thinking the same thing, although I'd imagine that it would have some effect at lower speeds but having said that I'll take my chances and rip it out.
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To take the heat out of a hot debate, I hope all the members One day don't meet up all at once.
imagine after a few jars it would be comedy gold watchin' a load of ageing bikers scraping over online disputes
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Sorted, great to hear she's ok.
Just don't try my cap removal trick it'll end in tears
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2 hours ago, Dezmeister said:@eddiegsx its far from standard. Just trying to see if theres a secondry vent before i get a big drill out or the tank pops after its stopped whistling for an hour after running it
Have you tried firing an airline down it?
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I had a similar problem years back when I was young and even more stupid than I am today, with my old efe fuel cap. At high revs the motor was bogging down so dopey here, to test my vent blockage theory decides to remove the cap flat out on a long bumpy straight local to where I lived.
I was rewarded for my stupidity ( as anybody whose ridden these with standard running gear will testify) with an almighty tank slapper followed by a good head to foot dousing of petrol, when I finally got the fucker stopped I spent the next twenty minutes looking through the undergrowth for the offending cap. Lesson learned!
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I'd fill a good sized bin with the amount I've ditched over the years, as you said Toni, just collects shite.
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2 hours ago, joemoma1990 said:
So should I stick with the 1100J rims or trade for correct rims?
Only you can answer that question, depends On what you want.
Getting back to the bend on the rearset mount, years ago I bought bike with the same problem but not quite as bad as yours, to solve it I cut a long piece of thick steel plate to obtain leverage, shaped and drilled it to mount on the rearset lugs then applied gentle heat to the area around it and slowly drew it back into shape. Never had any issues after that.
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24 minutes ago, vizman said:
Yeah because if they’re not damaged what’s the problem?
They weren't damaged but following you're sage advice they're currently swimming in expanding foam.
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Have you tried a replacement as hopefully it will be just the rearset that's bent, otherwise I suppose it's got to be the mounting point. I'm no expert on bending aluminium, I did read somewhere that it doesn't like too much heat so be careful, having said that, there's guys on this forum that are far more qualified than me to advise you about the technicalities.
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Swinger looks 750, as you've established you have a couple of bikes going on there. Front end looks like 1100j, on the bright side you have the parts to make a good bike, I'm assuming the left hand rearset is definitely bent? I hate trying to get things like that straight just incase it goes tits up, good luck
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Photos are from a poor angle, can you take some more of the whole bike to give an idea of what you have?
Try and get one of the swingarm linkage as the 1100 is different to the 750.
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Welcome Joe, those 19" rims are 18" as the tyre size stipulates off a gsxr1100j.
You've struck gold as they're certainly hard to come by this side of the pond.
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2 hours ago, Wagola said:
Went to Harris recently to get my frame repaired and asked about some Ohlins forks. They said 'why pay for Ohlins, get a set of recent forks, get them modded with a cartridge kit and they will be as good as Ohlins.' Just saying that most recent forks can be made much better with a decent up-grade kit on them. But you pays your money you takes your pick. Still love a set of the gold ones on the front of the bike tho.
I kind of get where they're coming from but I could stretch to selling a vital body organ to get my hands on a pair of RWU black ohlins
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6 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Seller got it from the tow yard that had gotten it from the insurance company after it was recovered. I'd already been paid out on it, showed the seller I was the original owner and he sold it to me for about what he had into it. $500.
Sounds like the seller was a decent guy not turning a profit on it, usually if they thinks there's sentimental value they whack the price up.
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Hello and welcome. Nice GS.
It will also sharpen the steering a tad.
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6 hours ago, davemfox said:
Thanks guys
Fuel resistant sealant - are we talking Loctite 243, or is there something else out there?
@Danm54 it's a year old fuel tap. I went through a couple of rebuild kits and couldn't get it to stop leaking out of the on/res/pri tap bit. They're not cheap...
Dave
Any fuel resistant sealant should do the trick Dave, there's numerous ones on the market but I personally try to avoid the cheaper products if possible.
The idea came to me a while back as a mate of mine had the same issues as you and it took him ages to find the leak, it was making its way down the bolt threads as it turned out.
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Good call off tonygee with the dowty seals, I also put a smear of fuel resistant sealant on the threads just to make certain.
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30 minutes ago, Dezza said:
It's a few years back but the downpipes, collector and CNC milled alloy flanges were about £450 quid. In all, a bespoke stainless system for the bike was about £650, which is less than many fancy 'branded' systems, which wouldn't fit properly without modification/bodgery. Dave's pipes mimic the old Harris systems and use large bore pipe rather than the weedy looking 38mm stuff. Here are some pics.
Looking at that, you won't go far wrong and the price makes it look very tempting.
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8 minutes ago, M4N4 said:
They are nice
I have been in the belief that they are quite expensive.
They're very nice and very expensive, quality comes at a price unfortunately
There again as the other guys have pointed out, there are many other very good manufacturers to suit all budgets. All depends how much you want to pay.
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3 minutes ago, Neveragain55 said:
You're absolutely right, I'm in Connecticut, but I do believe - if I'm looking at their website correctly, that I could just order something and have it shipped over, or are you saying that my bike would actually have to be at their shop in order to have something made specifically for what I'm building?
It would kind of make sense for them to have the bike, especially if it's a one off like the one Steve is building, why not contact them and ask they may work off dimensions.
One things for sure, if you buy a racefit you won't be disappointed.
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Stray Kat
in Air Cooled
Posted
I had one of them Speedo's on one of my ET's brings a whole new meaning to the phrase, 'I had it off the clock'!