MeanBean49
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Posts posted by MeanBean49
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Bit faster than everything else
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Was an ace weekend. Im still suffering now. Spondon didnt do too badly though :-)
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I dont think you will see any improvement without changing both. No way of getting the fancy oil out of the plates once its soaked in.
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Will want new plates too. Old oil will have soaked into them. Wont stop slipping.
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Swap the odd size 1st plate for a standard size one and throw the silly anti judder washer spacer thing in the bin. Stopped mine slipping. Never had any problems with good standard halfords semi synth. Dont bother with fancy oil. Too many anti friction adatives that make things slippier
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I have a full system that takes 10 mins to swap over. Big thick pipe and shortish race can, makes it as quiet as a standard bandit
Last year i put it on for noise testing then went back to slash cut on track.
There loudest at low revs under no load, on the move the turbo spinning takes a lot of the noise away.
Always best to have the option of swapping round.
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Dave Dunlop did my kit origionally,yeah i believe he cuts the springs a bit, so a lot of it is trial and error.
Ive picked up a lot of stuff from Dave and finding bits out as i go.
Ben os a top bloke, his bike is ace.
Yeah i find that the easier time you can give carbs the better they behave, now ive got mine setup nice it rides brilliantly. I also find its worth stripping carbs cleaning and re-setting float heights regularly.
My system is fairly basic, carbs still have plastic tops. Did half a mile at Pendine bouncing on the limiter at 17psi. (By accident) Never missed a beat.
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I run a 260lph pump as 130lph couldn't supply enough flow at full chat, but mines a big 1216 motor. Smaller pump should be fine on yours. I run mine at 2psi above boost pressure. so 20psi pump would be fine.
the lower you can get away with running fuel pressure the better, the higher it is, the more likely it is to overcome the float valves and start flooding the motor as the pressure rises.
I also disagree with what was said earlier about FPR vaccum feed. I take mine from the carbs not the plenum. That way when you shut the throttle the fuel pressure drops straight away, again stopping the fuel pressure overcoming the float valves and flooding everything.
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Short stroke motor can be bored to 837cc, pistons are bit like rocking horse poo though, my old race bike 837cc, ported and flowed head and full race exhaust, running on gsxr 36mm carbs, was good for 125bhp but you had to really work the motor hard, didn't have a lot of mid range, cracking fun to ride though.
I prefer big bore 1216 motors every time though, even on track, similar money to do but more go everywhere, but I am lazy and have been corrupted by power.
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I used a slongshot shock, might need iit if your putting a longer later model shock in
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Nope. No need for one
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I made these adjustable links too, bit of ally tube and rose joints for whatever size bolt you need.
I found it worked better to keep slingshot linkage rather than use later one, keeps the ratio pretty much as intended for the bike.
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Looks like the shock is far too long and probably too stiff. Making linkage in wrong place. Should move irrelevant of dog bone angle. Have a look at the shock/swingarm with standard linkage shock fouls on rear of swingarm lockingnit all up. I had to dremel a cutout in swingarm to get clearence.
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Whole rear end swap is pretty straight forward, you still have to deal with the 10mm offset difference though if you want it done properly. Top hat spacers and some adjustable dog bones and swingarm will fit
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3 hours ago, Mar71n said:
Proper bit of kit.
Is the red warning light that comes on at the end of the run an over boost warning?
No its my shift light, it coming on in 5th means the back wheel is doing 220mph, which is 40mph faster than the front was doing
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Offset sprocket would do it but iirc chain either fouls the inside of the frame or is very close. Top hat spacers are easy enough to get spindle right. I have 5mm machined off sprocket carrier, run a talon sprocket on backwards and a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. Its very doable just takes a bit of work
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can be done but its not easy, busa wheel is 6" and gsxr 1000 but the sprocket offset is 10 mm different so its a pain to get the chain run right and wheel central, you need to machine bits to do it properly. and spindle is bigger.
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Should be dead easy to find, they didn't use small letters
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My times wouldnt see me anywhere near this year. I had to swap from the slingy frame to the Spondon for a fighting chance.
Good thing about Thunderbikes is theres always someone to race whatever pace your running, i dont really care about where i finish anymore as long as im having fun.
Will try get along to last round, love to see you out there
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I run ignitech on mine, awesome they are. When you hoping to be out racing? I used to run a Slingshot in Thunderbikes, and my Spondon in Extreme. Be back out on my new Zxr at Cadwell. Look forward to seeing this out there, cant help but think you might be better capping the power a bit and running in Sport class, struggle to be competitive in extreme
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it will most likely be under the tank in between the frame tubes if its a big tube frame, think beam frames will be similar. number wise it will start with SPE-(bike model)-Number eg SPE-GSX-R-999
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8 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Tee Hee, that vids brilliant
I like the blokes reaction at end of ride by one. Dont think they were expecting that for the 1st run of the day
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Fly by
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178mph record setting run
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Cadwell videos
in Events
Posted
Bit more boost this session. Bike sounds like its not trying whilst lifting the wheel everywhere. Ace fun