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cnap504

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Posts posted by cnap504

  1. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    As a couple of posts up - Motul Mineral 10w/40 so that's pretty well ruled out although not entirely ! I still want to know about the fibres and clutch metal parts wear ?

    I’m going to remove the plates on both bikes and measure the thickness of both the metals and frictions.  My main riding buddy is a retired motorcycle mechanic from one of the most competent mc service departments in this area and he tells me the clutch “stack” height is very important to the proper function.  So much so that Suzuki sent their dealerships a specific weight to place on a workbenched clutch so they could be consistently measured.  He no longer has access to these measurements.  He also tells me to achieve the correct stack height Suzuki had different thickness steels available, I will post my plate measurements when I get them, but does anyone know more about this “stack” height situation.  As always, thanks 

  2. 2 hours ago, Blubber said:

    It is very odd that 2 of your bikes have clutch issues.

     

    Are they both running the same oil and is it the correct oil as per manual?

    They both were non running bikes one with a known history of proper care until 10 year storage and the 1000sz unknown history.  The sz had the broken plates and a lose main shaft nut.  The 1150 clutch I couldn’t find any mechanical damage so to cure its slippage I tried 3 heavy Barnett springs.  Seems to have cured the slip but it now drags (no shifting when cold, no neutral when hot).  Motul MC mineral 10/40 oil filled to the correct level.

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  3. Thanks everyone for the tips.  Both of my clutch “fixes” haven’t worked. The 82 Katana still slips after replacing broken friction plates and a new main shaft nut (the original had gotten lose).  It also got three heavy Barnett springs staggered with three new oems.  Everything looked to reassemble correctly sept it slips.

    The 1150 too would slip just like the Katana the clutch would completely surrender without warning 2/3rds the way up the rev range, so took it apart and no apparent damage.  So I thought this one will be easy, put three hd springs with 3 std’s, now it drags won’t shift cold and no neutral at a stop.

    I’d like to measure the stack height? of the clutch pack?  What exactly is that, how do you do it and what measurement should I look for?  I don’t race or ride the bikes hard so I could get along with a temperamental clutch but I don’t want to quit just yet.  Thanks again 

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  4. A bit aggravated.  I removed the clutch plates and there wasn’t any damage.  The main shaft nut that sometimes gets lose was fine.  I staggered 3 Barnett heavy springs with new oem springs and reassembled the clutch.  Now it drags, won’t shift until warmed up and neutral is hard to get at a stop.  From intermittent slipping to incomplete disengagement.  Also changed oil to Motul 10/40 mineral.  Something aint right

  5. Recently got a non running 1982 Katana 1000, it had some typical long term lay up issues but I have gotten it running and riding reliably. On upshifts if I’m very deliberate it engages the next gear, anything less than a careful upshift requires a second attempt.  All the gears are there and I’ve been through all of them.  The clutch began to give up without warning when rolling on at highway speeds so pulled the cover and inner hub to find the outer basket nut had loosened some, hand tight with the lock tab washer still in place.  All the fiber plates were broken, the clutch considering it’s condition worked a lot better than it should have,  I’m putting it back up with new fibers, new oem springs, new nut and washer, the inner and outer hubs have some grooves which I filed and sanded fairly smooth.  While this stuff is out should I check the shift shaft “pawl” and spring?  How to do this and what to look for?  Shift drum detent plunger and spring?

     Thanks 

     

     

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