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cnap504

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Posts posted by cnap504

  1. 41 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

    your clutch plates are stuck together,  fire the bike up and push it then jump on, with the clutch lever pulled in put it in gear. then just get on and of the throttle lightly till they break loose, keep the lever pulled in though. 

    I learned this method for dirt bikes that weren’t ridden often so the clutch plates would stick.  Start it in neutral push the bike jump on with clutch pulled in put it in gear with clutch lever still pulled in and ride it. The clutch should free up.  Ride it in a no obstacle or no traffic area, if the clutch doesn’t free up quickly, stopping could be awkward 

  2. You have the carbs dismantled and the ball hasn’t fallen out yet.  You might have to run them on the bike and see what happens.  I don’t think I ever was warned about a certain carb taking out a cylinder because it spit out a blanking plug, but I suppose it’s possible.  Good luck

  3. Yep prolly not getting enough fuel when it needs more.  Since you have just done the tank cleaning, carbs and filters it might be worth checking fuel delivery ie. do the carbs get an adequate amount of fuel to run thru the rpm range.  A plugged gas tank vent or clogged petcock can starve the engine for fuel.  Don’t be hesitant to try a big main jet, you’re getting a lot more air than with the original air box.  I recently did some 36mm carbs, removed the original box to run pod filters, the stock mains were 110’s, I had to use 140’s.  Runs very good and the plugs look right

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  4. Pump premium gas in the U.S. is rated  mostly 93 octane.  Modern bikes with sophisticated ignitions (knock sensors, throttle position recognition, gear related curves) do get by with today’s fuel and relatively high comp ratios.  The digital ignitions give the spark just enough lead to keep things fun without detonation.  I’d opt for a half point less compression and a couple/few degrees less advance if working with a mechanical or electronic predetermined advance 

  5. 5 hours ago, gs7_11 said:

    The head has larger inlet ports for CV carbs, as did the last chain drive model, the 1980 ET. That might be different, depending on which GS1000 you have.

    Other than that, nothing. I've built quite a few GS1000 motors using 1000G top ends. My current bike has a chain drive bottom end, with shafty top end, including CV carbs and airbox.

    Is that the orange bike with the Eagle exhaust,  beautiful example of a 7/11 bike.  Really clean and nicely set up

  6. Been hung up on 2 valve powerplants since I missed out on a non running complete original’79 GS1000 that sold cheap.

    So was wondering if a GS850 cylinder would go on a 750 bottom allowing for a bigger bore.  Would want to put the 750 head back on.  Or to make a bigger badder 750 could you install cyl sleeves from a 1000 in the 750 block and go with 73mm pistons 

     

  7. 1 hour ago, Jonny said:

    The GS750 is actually the biggest engine (physically) Suzuki made (due to the kickstart mechanism). So the problem isn't ever will it fit - it's what to do with the extra space. :S

    No issues with the GS1000 engine being possibly taller ?

  8. Sure looks like it fits, the Suzuki engine swap possibilities are tempting.  Let’s say I have a friend who wants to put a 2 valve GS1000 motor in a GS750 frame.  He just missed a very nice (non running but clean and original, arrgh !!) ‘79 GS1000 on ePay US, sold for $1375.  So does a GS1000 engine and 750 frame make a good pair?

     

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