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cnap504

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Posts posted by cnap504

  1. If you got the engine and carbs for 500 I’d say you did very well.  The U.S. 1052cc GSXR (‘86-‘88) came with 34mm cv flatslides, I think modifying your 29’s to 33’s could work, the 1052 and early 1127 heads are probably the same.  And it would be pretty cool to make use of the carbs you already have.  The 33’s will lack just a bit of higher rpm power but do you need the few extra ponies a couple thousand r’s just under the limiter.

  2. On 3/5/2022 at 8:13 AM, Bubba1135 said:

    I'm looking for a new exhaust for my efe, have ran a set of cobra headers with mtc can for years, like the look of the motogpwerks systems but I know they're hard to come by, I'd love a racefit legend but the costs a bit scary.

    What are you using and if someone has either of the two mentioned your opinion would be much appreciated. 

    Can you post a picture of the mtc can, would like to have a look 

  3. I was lucky enough back in my day to come across a guy who did real head work.  He was nearly illiterate but was a mechanical genius, his head work in most cases was conservative high velocity stuff with blended seats and three angle valve jobs.  He did an early kwak 4 valve watercooler 1984 900 gpz, picked it up tremendously.  + at least 1 or 2 maybe more for good headwork

    • Like 1
  4. On 1/20/2022 at 2:47 AM, jensvonbustenskjold said:

    Hi all, 

    Question, 

    Has anyone used RS-D21-K for a GS1000? Got a 81 model with 34mm inlet. 

    I see in the Mikuni manual that they recommend RS36-D3-K for GS1000. I've got a set of new 34mm inlet. Are they soft enough to push the 36mm into?

    Stock engine.

    Any takers, 

    cheers

     

    RS34.thumb.JPG.1dad79f4666192adfcd0e0636c9c5bd8.JPG

    Have you bought any carbs yet?  If the motor is going to remain basically stock, 31mm Keihin round slide CR Specials just might hit the sweet spot.  5mm’s larger than the stock 26’s, they’ll boost top end without giving up low end.  A bit pricey tho

  5. You had 130lbs across them it went down nearly 50%, check the cams again for correct timing, and also if your motor has a cam chain tensioner that requires loosening of the lock bolt so the spring can pop in to take up chain slack.  And that adjustment has to be done at a specific crank position, iirc there’s a “T” mark on the timing plate.  When it was out 2 pins there is a chance of a bent valve.  

  6. About the CR’s, great carbs.  5179 needles clip one position leaner than the middle.  58 pilots, 230 air jets, 138 mains, a turn and a half on the air screws.  Using the Keihin black plastic velocity stacks (with the grey lock rings) will noticeably improve response.  14mm float height, and use a push-pull throttle set up, once past 3/4 slide opening they have a tendency to hesitate in closing when relying only on the return spring.

     

  7. I’m cleaning a set of mikuni cv’s from a 1981 GS1100E and one of the fuel screws will turn in maybe 2 turns and then stops.  Tried that particular screw in the other carb/carbs and no trouble so I’m thinking it’s the threads in that carb body.  Also checked to see if an old screw taper broke off in the body and no, it’s good.  Can I clean up the threads in that carb with a chaser/tap and if so what size is it?

     

     Thanks 

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  8. Yep looks like 29’s, big drain caps on the bowls located directly under the main jet (alllowing main jet changes without having to remove the bowls).  Also thin wall spigots on the manifold side.  Looks like POP Y to me, POPS Yoshimura, could be

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