cnap504
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Posts posted by cnap504
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I can’t find them
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Well I enjoyed that. “thumbs up emoji” lol
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Yep, I like what I’m seeing. Approve of the Hindle system with long muffler and end cone. A couple of years ago I rescued a ‘82 Katana from being parted out, got it running, pod filers & Ist gen V&H pro pipe.
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Pod air filters and exhaust are a very common modification, if there is a proven stage one carb kit go with that. If not the kit try raising the needle, 130 main on 26mm carbs seems a bit big to me but I can’t remember back that far when I was doing that particular bike. You probably know you shouldn’t up the main to cover lean needle part or low slide opening carburetion. How many sizes up did you go on the pilot? Fuel screws can be turned out as much as three turns (can’t they)? It has both an air screw and fuel screw, interesting, I’m not sure I remember seeing that. Hope this helps
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When I was getting my SZ going I soaked the tank cap in carb cleaner, it loosened up the black paint and I wound up with a brass colored cap
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Ok I’d like to know what a Kat pop up cam is?
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You can get a little boost in compression by adjusting the valves to the loose side of spec. They stay on the seats longer and trap more air in the cylinder. Degreeing the cams will help a good bit too
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You’ve got a nice project there, congrats on the find. To me the GSX1100 engines look better than the 1150’s especially in custom frames. The 1100’s make good power but if you’re thinking you’d like more they respond well to a cam upgrade, displacement increase, and a bit more compression. A high velocity free flowing exhaust with a set of performance carbs will certainly complement the engine mods
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On 1/29/2023 at 6:07 AM, Gixer1460 said:
LOL's - two pages of discussions and recommendations and we come back to using stock carbs - I guess Suzuki san knew something !
Suzuki San, wyze mahn
get the slides to respond a bit more quickly, shim the needles, open the fuel screws, and use the proper main for your set up and CV’s are pretty good, not too tempermental either.
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36 cv’s tuned properly should work well
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Someone put those in for a reason but you have to wonder what was the reason. If running without an air box put 140’s in all four, see how it runs and check the plugs.
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I have a U.S. spec GS1100E 1981 model and I went 3 teeth less on the rear sprocket. Made it reasonable for interstate riding
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Interesting, tell me more
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Congrats on the 2 valver, I had a ‘78 bought new, iirc it was 1800 bucs.
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Kosman here in the states did a bunch of them way back when, probably not any more tho
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They are low drag low friction. The street racers round here (on barely used highways) use them along with non o-ring chains and some kind of springy deal that keeps the brake pads from dragging on the discs
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I think those are 28mm (1979 Kawi). The hump lump or bump on the number 2 bowl was a cast in “boss” to pump feed 4 venturi nozzles. The ‘76 & ‘77 kwackers had 26mm with no pump. I think in some cases the the slide cutaway differed for the kawais and Suzukis
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Gorgeous, absolutely one of my favorites
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Brakes, tires, suspension. Less restrictive exhaust and tune the carbs, if retaining original air box carbs would probably only need fuel screw richening, needle shimming and may be a bit more main.
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Carbs clean? All jets and fuel passages, are the floats set and working correctly. And are the carbs getting a steady adequate supply of fuel?
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Thinking about putting an 1150 motor in a 1981 1100e frame. Bolt in or semi bolt in, any issues? Thanks all
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I’ve had carbs that leak the first couple times fuel is put to them then they stop. Also a whack with a plastic hammer will sometimes get ‘em to act right
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A good long soaking of diesel and acetone
Fast from the past
in Forced Induction
Posted
Yep, I found them again