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As a note, the 1100 engine is taller so this translates into the bellypan being pulled up a bit higher when all factory mounting points are used. Header clearance can be an issue if using the 1 piece bellypan.

The 750 mids are different shape and this allows for the clearance of the low mount clip ons of the 750 to clear the upper when the bars are turned side to side. The 750 clip ons are below the top brace and the 1100 is above. The upper is a bit smaller on the 750 as well. The belly pans are the same. Here is the pic of the bike I just finished. It's a 1100 frame with 1100 forks. All of the bodywork is aftermarket Airtech GSXR1100. I had to fab all the tabs and headlight/fairing stay because of this configuration. I used a 92 oil 750 in it.

@wraith. I'm running 1100 carbs on this 750. They look just like the carbs on the right. They are 36mm. The main difference I've seen is with the emulsion tubes. The carbs were both 36 mm and looked the same externally but were not internally. The DJ kit I just ordered was a 750 kit p/n 3135 and the emulsion tubes are way longer than the 1100 kit p/n 3136. Mains and pilots were the same between kits but emulsion tubes and needles are way longer. This kit has to get exchanged for the 1100 kit.

Hey all, does anyone have a recommendation for sprocket sizing front and rear? I'm looking for an all around cruising size.

All of the above. If the internal shutter in the tap is stuck=bad day. If the float heights are set too high a slight amount of fuel will run over in time. If the float needle tips are wasted the it will continue to run over as well. I would be more suspect of the float needle tips though.

You should find several 91 92 front fairing stays on the flebay machine. But the part that never seems to be on there for sale is an aluminum offset 4 hole bracket that mounts the fairing stay to the frame neck tabs. 89 90 didnt use it, 91 92 does. However, it typical OSS fashion, what we can't find we build! I had to. If you have to make one it's not hard. If you have to build one and you are going to use a full fairing, the upper is the last fairing section to fit. Start by mounting the mids to the to the cylinder head point, fit the bellypan to the mids and lower frame mount then set the upper on top of the mids and then figure out the size and shape of the fairing stay as it holds the headlight assembly and it holds the entire upper assembly to the frame. Make sure the entire fork assembly is installed to include triple clamps and clip ons. The clearance of the clip ons and brake /clutch reservoir is dictated by the height of the upper mount. Hopefully you can find all associated factory mounts but if not fab it up!

That fairing looks to be aftermarket. The air intake inlet ducts are not a factory shape. Definatly not factory 91 92 Suzuki. I dig the shape of that fairing you have there. The internal shape of the whole shell is definitely Suzuki. Are you going to use it on a 91/92 style? 750 or 1100? Looks like it's in great shape.

Looks like a 91 or 92 (same) because of the way the frontal area is laid back. 89 90 were more straight up. Not sure if it's a 600 750 or 1100 though. There is a difference in height from the 600/750 to the 1100. 1100 had clip ons above the triple clamp top and 750 was below.

. You're welcome. Glad to help anytime.

I do not know of another ignition system for these bikes other than DynaTek. I have ben running one and it has been flawless. I could not find a working Suzuki CDI so I decided to go to aftermarket. I have seen a common failure with the OEM CDI of the 2 and 3 cylinder transistor. This causes the exact problem you are having.

Yellow and blue wires are the pick up signal. Use the analog meter with it set to volts AC. Connect red and black meter leads to the yellow and blue pick up leads. Crank the engine for about 10 seconds and watch the meter needle. It should move from 0 to 2 or 3 volts in a rapid sweeping motion. If that tests ok the pick up coils are ok. Verify the wiring between the pick up connection to the CDI plug is good. Verify the black wire between the CDI plug to ground is 1 ohm or less.

You've determined the CDI is not firing 2 and 3 cylinders coil. Now we need to see if the pulse from the ignition pickup is coming into the CDI. Refer to @Gixer1460comment about the ignition pickup wire color code. This is the next test point. You will need to check resistance measured in ohms as well as signal that is generated. Be back shortly with some numbers.

You need an analog voltmeter or 12vdc test light. Connect the voltmeter across the primary ( red lead to org black lead to black) crank the engine for 5 to 7 seconds and watch the meter needle. It should move from 0 to 10 volts during the cranking. If not then the CDI is not switching the primary and the coil will not fire. I will assume you've already verified that 1 and 4 are firing?

Anytime

What size rear tire is on your bike 180? 160? I am running a J or K hugger on my N with a 180 rear tire. It is a tight fit but it does clear.

Yes. The tabs/holes are in the same location. I have a 1100 on my 750 swinger. 1100 swinger is a bit longer than a 750 hugger mounts are the same.

88 or 89 should be the correct one. 90 to 92 has 1 vertical tab and 3 threaded holes on the swinger.

Rear hugger has a few different configs. Does your swinger have 4 vertical mounting tabs welded to the top? Or 1 vertical tab and 3 threaded holes?

I'm with @Blubberand @wraith. I'd leave the cam cover in black. Barrels in silver. The starter and alternator red details look excellent in my opinion. That billet case cover is f'n awesome.

Got a bike to put it in? . Nice looking detail.

Looks like MotoAmerica is on for 31 July to 2 Aug. Any stateside OSS members interested?

Good info there. I was thinking about the braced swinger as well. Not now.

@Poldark. Yeah, I saw that. As we are running short of time in April and it was scheduled for the beginning of May I get it. Doesn't look like they rescheduled it either.

@xracerfranzI usually 1100 N frames and use 750 N swingers and 750 or 1100 shocks. Never had an issue with the bottom shock mount to link area. Your braced swinger is a bit different though. Hopefully one of these links will line up.

@xracerfranzBTW one of them is a M link and the other is off of a W.