Captn

@xracerfranzI have 2 1100 lower links that I can measure for you. If they'll work we'll figure something out. I'll snap a pic with measurements when I get home this afternoon.

My first build was a N and it had a harsh angle as well. Stock suspension height. I didnt want to change the stand so I carried a small block around to correct it. Worked good for parking on soft surfaces as well.

Looks like we've had a few more stateside enthusiasts join here lately. Welcome aboard all!!

Link to the frame ears or shock to link, or link to swingarm?

I second @fatblokeonbandit. Verify correct engine oil level. Too much oil can hydro lock the clutch basket. Verify proper clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder bleed. Clutch master cylinder may need rebuilt as it may not be generating enough pressure to move the pressure plate. Good luck.

DJ 3135 kit on the way.

Excellent. Thanks wraith.

@wraith thanks bud. All info is appreciated. So are dancing bananas.

Thanks @wraith. Its pulling good but running too rich. Brakes are good. Suspension is working well. I'm sure several shakedown runs will sort it out.

Got the scooter out for the 1st run since paint work is done. Aside from running it up and down the drive, this is the first full pull test. The wideband 02 sensor says its rich, way rich. Like 11.5:1 rich. Pulled the carbs to verify float height and main jet numbers. Found mains are DJ 124's. Float height is on spec. Same old story about emulsion tubes, ovaled. Looks like new emulsion tubes are in order. Anyone have recommendations on baseline main jet sizing? It's a stock 750 lump. K and N air filters. Stock header. Custom midpipe and V and H can. Dyna 2k ignition.

@SiBagposted some excellent USD info in the general chat section titled USD fork info. Check it out, good stuff.

Go for a late model USD, radial braked front end. You've got a solid platform, dive in on the suspension upgrade bits. This is the place for info for sure. There are some K model swap gurus in here that can set you right on triple clamps and steering stems.

Wow, that's alot of parts. Good luck!!

Outstanding. I agree. All checks point to CDI.

You welcome. Enjoy the bike. 1127 is an excellent power plant!

Perfect continuity. That's a great ground.

Yes. B/W wire to earth. Sorry.

Also. Look in the CDI sockets and the plugs to make sure there is no corrosion on the tabs and slide terminals. Since they are copper they will corrode when the protective tin plating gets scratched off. The terminals will oxidize with a bluish green color and fail to conduct properly. This happened to my 1127 and it had to be trailered back home. If you see any corrosion, scratch/file it off until clean. Coat tabs and slide terminals with dielectric grease and plug back together. Dielectric grease is our friend.

That looks good. The resistance is changing during cranking because it is generating a signal. Looks like pick up is good.

This sucks @wraith. Since I dont have the book, any numbers on resistance or pulsing voltage would be incorrect at this point. Sorry. I had this same issue on my 750 and went through 2 CDI boxes off of fleabay. Pick up was good but the transistor for cyls 2 and 3 inside the CDI box would not conduct. I tossed the whole Suzuki system and installed a complete Dyna system. OEM cdi box was more expensive than the Dyna system, decision made, never looked back. I'll get you some hard numbers tomorrow. For now just verify ignition coil resistance for both primary and secondary windings. Verify 1 ohm or less of resistance between CDI plug black wire to chassis ground point.

Hmm, resistance should have been smooth. Maybe 150 to 450 ohms??

Check the resistance in ohms at the same connector.

There is a resistance measurement test for the pick up as well. I'm still not back at my shop so I dont have that spec. Sorry.

9.5 is a good number. That is typical. Voltage drops while cranking due to the burden from the starter on the battery.

Sounds like CDI not firing coils. The signal coming from the pick up is a pulsing signal best measured with a analog meter. In this case the light bulb won't work as the pulsing voltage is too small. Disconnect the 2 pick up wires and connect you meter to the pick up side connectors. As the engine is cranked, you will see the meter display numbers change rapidly. It's hard to get a read on the actual DC voltage because if this. But it will resemble a pulse.