Mouse

Hi i'm trying to set up the carbs on my 78 GS750 and am having two problems. Firstly i know that i have to set all the slides to the same height by the adjuster screws under the carb tops but i don't know if there is a gap height to set them to or do i set them all to the bottom and then adjust them so i just feel them move, i.e just slip a rizzla under them until i can just pull it out and then set the tickover when running by the tickover screw or is there another way ???. Second, the choke rod seems to only move about half it's movement if that makes sense, if i slacken all four screws that attach to the finger bits that lift the "choke plungers" the rod moves fully and locks at the end on the small ballbearing in the carb body like it should, but if i tighten the screws up the rod only moves about half way and is quite stiff, i have taken all the plungers out and cleaned them and if i pull them up on there own everything seems to work freely, but as soon as i attach them to the rod it all seems to bind up, I have also checked that the rod is straight. Thanks Mouse

Hi Both are Mk 1's just hope offer is accepted, Thanks for your time

Nice one ,Ta I'll see if he reads this before i pester him

Hi all Can anyone tell me how similar the 600 and 1200 bandit frames are around the swing-arm/shocks area ?? reason being i want to fit a b12 swing-arm and shock which i already have in a gs750, i have been offered a bandit 600 frame complete with swing arm and shock and was thinking of getting this so i can cut of the top shock mount and weld it to my gs frame and it will also give me something to take measurements from for shock angles etc. Does this sound like a reasonable idea, ?? Thank you Mouse

O.K. makes more sense now, I just assumed that the advert was showing model numbers, don't know why he just didn't put "fits 1977 /1998/ 1999". Thank you

Thank you all, now ordered. Mouse

frame number 18874, hope this helps engine number 59416 e

Hi there I,m looking to get some inlet rubbers for my 1978 gs750, have found some online for not a bad price, £75 for all four including the O rings. Now problem is they are listed for GS750 B/C and N and also GS1000 C/N, now as far as i'm aware mine is a E, it has twin front brakes and cast wheels, can anyone help with what model i have, Can get frame number if that will help. Thanks Mouse.

As far as i know, No. Thought of the same thing meself but i think you will need the cam box, cams, carbs, exhaust etc as well. Hope this helps Mouse

Could you be a bit more specific please I do have another bike on the road at the moment so not in a mad rush, but would like to make the most of the good weather (lockup floods and gets fecking cold ) , also now i have started to collect parts and do some work on the 750 i don't want to lapse again, if it takes a month or so to sort the engine so be it, don't really have the funds for a new (to me) motor at the moment so need to do the best with what i have, hence the Wiseco idea .

problem is with a gsx1100 lump as i see it is that a engine will cost between 500 to 700 according to fleabay and bumtree, and there is no garantee as to how good it is, at least with my 750 i know how good (or bad) the bottom end is, this is why i was thinking about wiseco kits. I suppose i could post in the wanted section to see if anyone has one for sale, would feel a bit safer than a random auction site

Hi I am currently rebuilding my 78 gs750 and upgrades in the engine department are defentley on the cards. as well as a complete engine swap i am looking at ether a 850 conversion using a set of gs850 barrels which i have or a Wiseco 844 big bore kit. If i go the gs850 route i am looking at buying a head and all the associated parts plus pistons plus re-bore etc etc and i have costed this to about £400 quid. plus remember these are used parts whereas a wiseco kit is about £550 brand new + re-bore cost (which i would need anyway). Has anybody used Wiseco kits and is there anything else i should be aware of, reliability etc. I am not looking for a balls out racer but would like a bit more power over the stock 750, i have been told the gs850 upgrade will not give me much more power over the 750 so am wondering if the 844 kit is a more viable option and why 844 is better than 850 ??? All thoughts and advice gratefully received Mouse

I saw the word "electrical" and i was off, thanks for pointing me the right way have now got them printed of and just waiting for the water to subside in my lockup before i have another go, wish me luck.

o.k so as you all now i cant post pictures and write text, also use a tape measure and take photos hope these photos and measurements help ?? if you need anything more just let me know the frame top rails are 22 cm apart O/D from the centre cross brace back. from the rear of the front (small) crossbrace (back of the tank) to the very end of the rail is 74 cm the hole at the very end of the rail is 8.5 mm and the edge of the hole is 8 mm from the end of the rail, there is also a small spacer that is 13 mm in diameiter (round) welded inside of this hole, (for rear mudguard) Hopes this helps

o.k text to follow after tea

BigT, Yes thank you, i have been all over both the gs750 t(z) diagram and the gs750 e-s(z) diagram but neater of them match up with whats on my bike. the main difference is that both diagrams show a combined reg/rec and a multiple fuse fusebox, in effect i do not have wires where there should be wires but i have wires where there should not be wires if that makes sense. I think that i need to use the diagrams as a guide an starting from the battery work my way to the coils, i do have a power probe (snigger) that will send a 12v current out from the bike battery so hopefully this might give me a clue where the power stops. Mouse

I really need that red faced emoji, i read it as never USE servisol super 10, doh

Not sure, i just assume things, s**t habit according to her in draws I'm from Kent in the u.k and we seem to have our own language, habits, and customs to the rest of the country, (according to the rest of the country). Just google Micky flannigan on youtube to see what i mean Mouse.

why is that please ??? already got a account with vwp as got a landrover and there catalogue is compulsory. BigT, there are earths, just not shown in photos, i have shorted across the starter solenoid and i can get the engine to spin over but there is no spark at the plugs, i assume that this is because i am bypassing everything but i have no idiot lights or any power anywhere. Unfortunately i do not have a service manual to refer to, the last one i had was a haynes one but that no longer exists. Thank you Mouse.

where's the red face emoji when you want it ??

Not a problem, since I joined this forum a few weeks ago I've had some great help and advice, it's good to give something back. will be going to my lock-up tomorrow to work on my bike so will take photos then, don't think I can put measurements on photos like you but will figure something out. Whereabouts in the country are you as I have the back half of a original seat that you can have for free if you want ???, will post photos of it as well. Mouse.

Yes sorry meant the say blue one, If you want any photos or measurements of your missing frame rails let me know as mine is slowly being dismantled. Mouse.

About 20 years give or take, but hopefully about to get a new lease of life . yes it looks like a few hours sat there with a tin of servisol super 10, do i just spray it on the connectors and wait or do i have to abrade the connector as well, and if so what is the best way to clean inside the female connectors ??. thank you.

Hi and firstly welcome to the forum, absolutely masses of great advise here. to try to answer your question i have a 78 g and i beleave the only difference is some of the brackets on the frame, Can i ask are the side panel on there "hooks" or hanging a bit as they dont seem to sit right, because there seem to be a lot of gap between the top of the panel and the seat rail ??? Mouse.