Mouse

True, but it tells me you love old GS's To be honest i forgot about the 850, even though i owned one for a few years. Checked out part no's and the 850 seems to be the same as the 1000 which on looks alone is a non starter, no pun intended.

Hi Doe's anyone know if the generator's and stators from a gs 550 are the same as a gs750 ??. I need a new cover for my 750 and wondered if any of the others would fit, I have checked part numbers for 550/750/1000 and they are all slightly different, however the 550 and 750 generator's and stators look to be the same pictures on Robinsons site whilst the 1000 looks different. Thank you

Yes Fellas, this might be the way to go, mate of mine is a Fecking good welder, would get him to put stem into V blocks and get it plug welded as well, (belt n braces). One last thing to try before i go this route as he is away for a few weeks, I recently bought a old slabbie for spares and it looks like the stem might be shorter so i will try this as a last resort, I know the forks are the same diameter so hopefully other bits are as well. Wish me luck

Ah well sorry but it don't, It gives the bearing sizes to convert but not how to take up the 15mm difference in stem length (Bandit is longer) , thought about a spacer under the bottom bearing but this would put the bearing on a tapered part of the stem an not on a straight part if this makes sense . Oh I'm trying, the Bandit top yoke has a 4mm bigger hole and is about 10mm deeper so there is not enough thread for the bearing lock nut. Am thinking that i might have to have the stem cut n shut or have a new one made but shorter, can't see why i am having all this trouble as other people seem to have done this before, but we all have to start somewhere.

No, the bandit top yoke will not fit the GS stem (wish it did)

I also needed the height of the race and the thickness of it, i have two bearings both the same size inner and outer but the inner race's are not interchangeable and i do not have a way to measure the race in the frame, also now it is out i can sit in the warm and try to match things up as the bearing size's are part of a ongoing saga

Well an update I do have a small porta-pac set of oxy bottles but the torch is to small to heat much of an area, it's mainly fur burning off rust prior to welding car bodywork. Strangely enough they are about 5 mins from me but have no stock at the moment, but Toolstation had this And 10 mins later I had this I need the outer diameter of the lower outer race as i want to fit a bandit 600 stem, I know what the stem dia is but need the lower outer bearing size to order a bearing, hence why i didn't want to weld or cut it as this could lead to a measuring mistake, especially cutting as it could "spring" , Also some sites list the top and bottom bearings as the same internal size, but this is not correct, the top bearing is 25mm I/D but the bottom is 26mm I/D. Thank for all your help Mouse.

Hi Poldark, thank you for the link but at the moment i am trying to get the race out undamaged Ah but that's my problem, I don't have a lip for anything to grip onto, the outer race is about 1mm recesed into the frame neck, and by the looks of that tool it needs a lip to catch onto ???

Hi Hoping someone can help with this, I need to remove (undamaged) the outer bearing races for tapered bearings from my GS750 headstock. The problem is the races do not stick out into the headstock as you would expect so there is no lip to leaver or hit, I have been told they are called blind bearings. I have found blind bearing pullers online but for the life of me i cannot see how they would work to remove the outer races, I think they are more for wheel bearings etc where you can only get to them on one side. The reason i need the race out undamaged is because i am trying to fit a bandit 600 stem into the gs headstock and i need accurate measurements of what is already fitted. I know for example the top bearings should be interchangeable but for me that is not the case, so i need to measure everything and go from there. Thank you Mouse

Thank you, got it now, think i had a senior moment as i was trying to convert gs750 to gs750, no wonder it didn't work.

Hi Can you tell me how you got to this As when i use there site and go to the find fork conversion bearings and put in my frame details all i get is thousands of bearings all different sizes from Aprilla to Yamaha, But i think your suggestion is the way to go as i seem to be chasing my arse on this, just need to get the engine out so i can drop the front end out

Hi When i was looking on allballs site i saw this and thought ah that's just for forks and passed it up, went back today and it makes even less sense, on the fork conversion bit it lists 25-48-13 top and 27-48-14 for my year, but if you look in steering bearing kits it says there are two bearings but only gives the size for one of them which is 25-48-15 ???, They also list all gs from 1977 to 1983 and all model year 600 &1200 bandits as the same top bearing and all bandits as 30-48-12 bottom even though i have a b6 top bearing that is exactley as swiss toni says, toni 1 allballs 0 Toni thanks for that they dont list this size at all for any bandit ???, it seems that there site is not that good and i will now have to look elsewhere.

Hi all After spending several not so happy hours on the internet to day i have found that year 2000 B6 yokes are not a direct fit into my 78 gs750 (according to allballs) as i hoped. Rang a local bike shop to ask them gs size and got told they cant (or wont) tell me the size but are happy to sell me some so i can measure them myself, wow thanks. Can anyone tell me the sizes of the b6 bearings and also the gs ones so i can try and fine some that fit please or direct me somewhere i can find this out, i tried to find this from allballs site but they only list the size for one bearing for the gs (25x48x15) and none for the B6 at all. Thank you Mouse

Funny man Don't like to rush things, (although missus says otherwise )

Hi Thanks to you all for the advice and info It looks like a centre line datum point is the way to go, it also seems to be better and less complicated than the long winded way i was going to try. Cheers all Mouse

Hi It,s a b12 swingarm, wheel, and shock. from about a 2000 mode,l MK1 i think, also thanks for the photos much aperchated Not a chance of that, been wanting to do this for so long, i know other people have done it so why cant I . My plan was to pull the wheel back as far as it will go in the swingarm and using all the spacers etc that came with it as this should place the wheel central in the swing arm, i will also be using top hat spacers so the swing arm should be central in the frame and then just slide straight into the GS frame. At the moment i'm not sure i will need a offset front sprocket but i cannot see that i will be that lucky not to especially as i want to run a 180 section rear wheel but like to get ideas in advance, I just assumed that the sprockets needed to be as parallel as possible. Thank you Mouse.

Hi I'm slowly getting the parts together for my GS750 build and i need to know how to align the rear wheel sprocket and the engine sprocket. I will be using the gs engine in the standard frame and a bandit rear wheel and swing arm. I believe i will need a offset front sprocket but how do i make sure the chain run is straight and what offset i need ??, i have thought of various ways to achieve this including a piece of wood or steel clamped to the rear sprocket but if ether of these is not dead straight pop goes that idea, possible a laser but is that possible as i think that the light will have to start behind the wheel sprocket for the light to shine on both of sprockets, i have also heard of someone using a florescent tube but i don't know how this would work ???, possible tape it to the rear sprocket and then measure the gap between the front sprocket and the tube to know how much offset i need ???. Thank you Mouse.

Hi I need to remove the rev counter worm drive from my 78 gs750 head. i have taken of the U shaped retaining plate and have tried to pull it out with a pair of long nosed pliers on the small bit that sticks out for the cable but no joy. So i thought it best to ask before i muller it up. Thank you Mouse

Yes, sorry men't barrels, Thanks, Mouse.

Cheers mate. do you know if the head will come of as well or are the studs to long ???? Trying to get it as light as possible.

Hi Does anyone know is it possible to remove the head whilst the engine is still in the frame ???. Reason i ask is that i need to remove the engine on my own and was thinking of sliding it out sideways onto a stand (truck wheel) instead of laying the whole bike on it's side (no room to do so). Would also be interested if anyone know's the rough weight of the engine so i can get a truss ordered Thanks Mouse

Hi will try that, the plugs are brand new B8ES , no R so not resistor, not sure what difference it makes though.??? but also non resistor caps

Thank you both for that Should have said that i have Piranha electronic ignition and it's the spark at the plug that crap, it's very small and you can just about see it in a dark garage, seems i have another problem to deal with. I will start another thread, as i don't want to hijack this one. Mouse.

reading this thread i am interested in your comment about making sure, Reason i ask is i thought the bigger the spark the better, i am having problems getting my own gs750 to start and have a small spark, so maybe this is not such a problem ???. Mouse

Hi Well thanks to your suggestions i seem to have sorted it. First i set the slide height by using a drill bit method, nice one Gixer1460 , Then i checked the fingers as BigT suggested and found that on one of them one of the fingers had got bent outwards somehow buy a very small amount (3mm) but this was just enough for it to catch on the carb body and stop it opening fully. So heated it up a bit on the cooker to soften it a bit an then bent it back into shape, all good now. Thanks Fellas. Mouse,