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Screwriverracing

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Posts posted by Screwriverracing

    About time to!!

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Just found this from RACETECH 

    At speeds below 700 RPM the ignition timing is fixed to spark on the rising edge of the tooth that precedes the long tooth(slug) (cyls 1/4) and the tooth that follows the slug (cyls 2/3).
     
    From 700 RPM upwards the ignition timing is adjustable

    About time to!!

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    If you have a mappable ignition . . . . . . . . why are you slotting the pick up plate as that'll change the entire map? Doesn't make sense - just adjust the cells below idle?

    Hi Gixer1460,

    I need to retard the ignition as the starting map is preset and can't be altered, once running above a certain rpm it works of what you set in the map. Just the way RACETECH designed it, a bit rubbish really.

    Cheers SRR

    About time to!!

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    Got some spare time, so hopefully going to work on the bike next week.

    In order to stop the kick back I am going to cut slots in the pick up plate to retard the ignition, then I will add the retarded amount to the ignition map.

    Cheers SRR

    EFE Oil,filter & plugs

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Hi All,

    so what oil filters are you using on your efe's, oem or aftermarket, and if aftermarket which ones are any good.

    And second question, what all for efe Turbo, was using Motel.

    last, what spark plugs.

    thanks in advance.

    Cheers SRR 

    Lock up clutch weights used

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    I agree with just bolt and locknut, when it's spinning it creates a lot of force, so I would definitely be looking else where.

    I always shotblast the steels so it grips really well when locked up.

    doesnt make much difference with heavier bolts if you haven't got anything to compress it against.

    Cheers SRR

    Top end oiler

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    Yes as Arttu says be careful when getting one, one I had from a reputable company knackered my head, turned out the lines flowed less oil than the original oil ways up the studs. Mine was dry blocked, oilways blocked off at the bottom of the studs.so just make sure the lines are big enough, someone on here should be able to tell you the right size lines, simple calculation I expect.

    Cheers SRR

    • Like 1

    Lifting The Head

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    And when you put the washers back on, slide them on a screwdriver then put the end of the screwdriver on the stud and drop the washer down, saves dropping the odd one down the cam chain tunnel.

    Cheers SRR

    • Like 2

    HP injection pump killing battery

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    On 1/5/2019 at 8:51 AM, nlovien said:

    sounds like there's a demand for a mod kit to fit a more efficient rare earth type alternator from a more modern bike 

    also wondering if you could piggy back a 2nd alternator ? - once did this by using a housing from an engine that had an alt that wasn't direct on crank ( plenty options ) - made an adaptor plate to fit in place of sprocket cover and spun the alt. via a direct link to the front sprocket bolt - ok not much use when stationary but it did provide enough added juice when used in anger - could be using the 1st option - more modern alt would make this option better - - idea copied from some old school endurance bike set ups

    As said before fit an outboard alternator from more modern bike, car or boat. There are some small units with good output, I need one but am waiting for someone to make one I can buy.

    Cheers SRR

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