jensvonbustenskjold
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Posts posted by jensvonbustenskjold
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My thoughts exactly!
Thank you @Gixer1460, I really needed to hear that in my insecure brain
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Gurls blouse ntv650?
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But shaft drive is so cool
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And you'll need a turbo.
Welcome
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Dude, that's neat!! New old stock
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I'll take that embarrassment any day. Go ride your bike!
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I'm afraid of raising the question, but seemed like the proper thread.
In search of wider rear wheel on a GS G, has any one used another manufacturer for swing arm and shaft?
A modern Guzzi, beemer, or any thing other "modern"?
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+1 on a new pipe with m5.
Is this for all 4?
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Congratulations!
With time you'll find a reasonably priced engine
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Hello
Nice bike!
Wemoto.com has a great selection of both OEM parts and knock off.
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Nice score!
Plans?
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No doubt a beautiful bike
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I'm sorry, I don't, but can't you use a kit from Venhill, or order custom?
https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components/motorcycle-cables/motorcycle-cables-clutch.html
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Found this. If you're not up to fault searching, you might wanna rewire the bike. Rupe has rewired his bike, and left a pretty diagram.
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It seems that the previous owner has done something wrong. If the side stand light is illuminated by the gearing into 1st gear, I would trace that circuit.
According the schematics, the side stand switch is an NO circuit. It's the only switch that should illuminate the lamp. Start at that lamp and following backwards. Why is it connected together with the neutral switch? That's the real question.
Disconnect the neutral switch and see what's happening?
@Shakey225 EDIT:
The schematics you have uploaded does not contain a side stand relay, as far I can see. Got me thinking, since you mentioned it.
Have a look at this manual, page 304. The engine kill-switch and the side stand are pulling the stand relay. So, if the side stand light is illuminated, then this relay is pulled. Are you sure the relay is removed?
As you can see you have something called "side stand diode". The diodes acting a logical "or" block. Both the side stand switch, and the neutral switch are connected to ground/negative, and the other end is connected to the "side stand relay". Both the neutral and side stand switch can kill the engine.
You have to find out what the previous owner did by reverse engineering, tracing wires.
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Hi
You might wanna share your diagram. There's many versions. Helpful looking at the same sheet.
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Hi Charles
Welcome!
Nice bike. Looking forward to this
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Hi mate
If you're the new owner, and this hasn't been a problem earlier, then I would go for complete cleaning of carbs.it sounds fizzy if you suddenly needs new jets. Might need that anyways,
Check parts for wear and tear. Specially rubber and gaskets
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Nice score
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Hows your starter brushes? Worn brushes might result in low torque. My starter did not turn over the engine. Changed brushes, and that solved it
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Sorry, got an auto correct in my last post. I've ment "can you run us through the setup ".
Is the generator original? Rectifier original? Any upgrades?
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Maybe I've missed something, but can you run is through your setup; generator, rectifier, size of battery (Ah)?
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Hi
Welcome! That's a nice bike! Your dad isn't wrong plenty of power, and not so powerful brakes, compared to days standard.
Cheers
Mikuni RS34-D21-K or RS36-D3-K
in Air Cooled
Posted
Would you go for 120 main jet with K&N pods?
Since the manual states 120?