Lachie04
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Posts posted by Lachie04
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I don't know if this is exactly yours but is off a gsx750 which had the same pin type as your pic
PS you won't find the pink wire on any wiring diagram I searched for it for ages it's from the gear selector and can be ignored
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13120-17C0 is a dot head rubber #2 cylinder mk 1 teapot
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Hi difference in cam covers is because of going to a Hyvo cam chain. Is it not?
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I have actually gotten all balls kit from the UK for cheaper and quicker to NZ than from the states can't remember who it was though get the part number off their website then do a search
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Like a bought one but better
That's some serious oxidation well done
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With a Setrab 19 row cooler
Depends on ambient temp on a 23-25°C day oil temp around 80-90/95 measured at the main oil gallery this may be @ 10° hotter then the sump temp and depends on how much acceleration your doing to
Stuck in traffic on a hotter day better than 100 have seen 115 and have to pull the pin at lights
If I cruise at 80K or better should be @ 85 on a hot day
Don't know at the head I have a head cooler mounted on the rear and always thought about fitting a temp gauge to see but that's too much trouble.
Otherwise find a IR temp reader and measure yourself
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Gotta trust yourself.
1/8 - 1/4 turn is good to lock it in as tight as a nuns nasty
Bad things happen when numpities overtighten lots of things eh!!!
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2 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
The”Best” way is to fit another sump
Yeah I have another but won't fit my exhaust
Just so happens a stripped M14 is just the right size to Tap a 3/8 NPT thread which is a common plug thread.
More surprising is I actually have that Tap from another one off job.
Trip to the local speed shop and $6 later.
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Hey guru's
As per the title managed to strip the sump plug even going easy always conscious of this happening maybe been on it's way.
So it's a 14x1.25 what's the quick options cause I need the bike for booked track time in 3 days
Thinking tap out to 16 mm and get some after market sump plug
Or may be helicoil but thinking re tapping might be easier
Any solutions out there
Cheers
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If its of any use I located a second hand pair from that site for just the same purpose.
But haven't gotten around to assembling the motor yet.
The oil return lines I scored are @ 120mm in height for a comparo with a set from a 1127
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On 12/1/2019 at 2:00 AM, Svsam said:
Yes, 750j and k models. I think the dot head makes the engine a little bit taller too thinking about it as you don’t use the cam chain roller between the cams like the standard 1200 so it could just be my setup.
The DOT head inlets are angled up @ 5° (I have a photo somewhere if your interested) together with MKII inlet rubbers @ 5mm longer then it is possible you may run into clearance issues with that setup
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17 hours ago, GSXR4814 said:
What cams are you using?
On 9/19/2019 at 9:03 PM, Lachie04 said:Used the Hyvo chain as the only option to match the crank Hyvo sprockets slotted and fitted to the 89 Cams. Pretty sure B6 use Hyvo
Check tension on the chain as we ended up taking a link out not sure why that happened as I hadn't heard of it before (just one of those things).
Dot head and 89 spec GSXR dot cams with Hyvo sprockets
From the notes the initial setup resulted in 105 deg exh and 108deg inlet the inlet sprocket was slotted back to 104
But that could vary project to project as before check check & check everything
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The Flat slides did not go on the 98+ teapot rubbers, as far as I know, you can only alter the internal spacing of RS Carbs between 2-3 to 85mm not the outer pairs but I have never played with them that way
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On 11/14/2019 at 9:18 AM, fatblokeonbandit said:
80 - 85 - 80 ....???
Those look the same as the 98+ teapot rubbers
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
No teapot had carbs bigger than 36mm (rubbers have an id of ~40mm) so I am guessing you are using other rubbers to mount those RSs, which will have inlet spigot ods of either 42mm (RS 34,36,38) or 44mm (RS40). Unless the rubbers have been enlarged by sanding that is. I have some RS38s and they aren't going to fit in a set of unmodified BST 36 rubbers in a million years.
Are you holding your tongue to the left like the manual says?
But seriously
whoriginal rubbers
Whoriginal carbs
And they are original as I rebuilt them slide guides, little pilot rubbers and all (so good for another 30K)
Correct RS have 42mm OD
And those are 38's in the pic
42 out vs 42 in
30yr old rubbers little bit of heat gun some red rubber grease and plop straight in no mods
Oh BTW
98+ teapots are BSR carbs which I remembered about 1/2 hr after last post
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Long stroke 98+ teapot rubbers
Only uses two types 1 for #1&2 and 1 for #3&4
The Post 98 model teapot has 36 mm carbs and the spacing of the carbs is Roughly 82-86-82
and they are 5mm longer than the Dot head rubbers
they will not take RS carbs as the spacing is all wrong even though the carbs would fit the rubbers
suffice it to say and most of you would know BSt 36's are not all the same internally or externally
Yes short stroke teapot will take RS flat slides
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11 hours ago, Dezza said:
So the plunger could be removed from a sump that has one regardless of whether the sump is fitted to a GSXR or a Blandit engine, as long as the oil and filter are maintained correctly?
So if you take it out then you will end up with a permanent (@ 10mm) bypass of the oil cooler, and reduced cooling.
if it works or not will not result in any oil restrictions as it bypasses directly into the inlet of the oil filter later models replace the relief valve with a permanent (@ 1mm) metered bypass)
13 hours ago, Solcambs said:I'm just going through this in reverse with the Bandit sump on a 91 GSXR. As far as I can see there is a permanent bypass that has been throttled down on the bandit sump (with a jet or rather a very small aperture). However, there is a part of that return that does not match the GSXR 91 and 92 bottom end that appears to need blocking off otherwise the main feed through and just past the regulator dumps pressure straight back to the sump and there's very little flow through the cooler. I'm in the process of refitting the sump to check whether it cures the temperature problems.
My view is that with your situation, you can just swop in the GSXR sump pre91, and the only difference is that there is not a permanent by-pass of the filer. This comes in when the pressure pushes the plunger back, and allows oil to flow through the by-pass. I assume this was there to protect against the eventuality that the filter is bunged up and creates a situation where oil doesn't flow well, and pressure increases.
The corresponding oilway in the lower case (well at least in my 750 89 case) is blocked so there is no way oil is going up (or down) there when the sump is bolted up to the case.
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Have you checked the corresponding rifling hole in the bottom case. My bet it's blocked off least it is in my K case as it leads to the main oil gallery and this is not the same as the relief valve plunger on the side of the sump which is purely there for cold oil operation but deleted in latter years
a
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when fitting slaby sump to Blandit motor leave the valve in.....
without the valve in oil will bypass the cooler.
when I swapped my K sump to the 99 case it was actually difficult to get out as it was all gunked up I my sure it wasn't capable of opening originally
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Slingy's have them too up to 92 if your talking about this valve
93 - gsx1100F
97 - gsx600-750f
Appears after 98 oil cooled didn't use them, it is an over pressure relief valve for "supposedly" when the oil is cold and thicker, which closes when oil is hot if taken out, oil would bypass the cooler all the time and perhaps after 97 they just relied on the pressure regulator, so if the pan has one then the "slug and spring" should be in there. Bandit or post 97 GSXF sumps could be fitted to earlier models but not the other way round if the valve is removed.
My take!
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Used the Hyvo chain as the only option to match the crank Hyvo sprockets slotted and fitted to the 89 Cams. Pretty sure B6 use Hyvo
Check tension on the chain as we ended up taking a link out not sure why that happened as I hadn't heard of it before (just one of those things).
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It would appear +12v comes from the speedo to the B wire on the sensor
B/W definitely "-"
The B/R is the signal sent back to the speedo
This is from a 600 Blandit wiring diagram should be consistent with all else
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Carb conundrum (help please)
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Lachie04
When I rebuilt my short stroke carbs I needed emissions tubes and needles couldn't get E24 so got matching uk E02 set as thought that would probably be the least restricted all the different countries had different set ups due to emissions regs as far as I know only the Cali models had all the stupid emission junk on them. Did take some effort running the float spot out but got it eventually after a good weekend on and off again and again
PS you should check and replace the slide guides for wear there's a place in the states that sells them as that's what's probably caused the wear to the top of the needle I try and find the US site guy was really helpful