[gsxr1100 starter motor]

If you were going to swap ends then you might as well go ahead and give it a clean

you'll probably find the commutator looks like this 

 

Clean it up and if the bushes have still got some decent meat on them try it again

 

The 4 pole motors can be a little ticky (read BITCH) to put back together

You need to hold each brush back I have used tiny zip ties to do this then cut them off when you get the commutator back in the there

But keep good pressure on it when sliding the case back on or the magnets will pull it out again

what do you have to lose 

Also when taking it apart before you do mark the case and end caps to align up when it goes back together

[gsxr1100 starter motor]

The starter on top is a two pole motor and the bottom a 4 pole motor

The inards wont swap

 

Also might need to check the gear teeth, there are two different sizes when getting another starter to match what you have 

There a 9 tooth gear and I forget the other (maybe 13 Tooth- don't quote me on that)

 

[Removing carb inlet rubbers]

If you stuff the head up use an angle grinder with cutting disc cut a slot and use flat head impact driver.. softly... worked for me

Then replace them with Allen head screws

[Swinger swap]

Yeah it's a bit of work to get it in there

That's a gsxr600 arm but seen with a braced 750 arm also same need to move the bottom rail

[Rebound adjusters]

Just for interest sake a working drawing of the mod if all else fails and you want to keep the forks like I did 

 

I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYONE ATTEMPTING TO TRY THIS

 

 

 

 

[Rebound adjusters]

Had the same problem and impossible to get em apart and no part available.

Ended modifying zzr1000 caps which worked well.

I did post some pics here but can't find em yet.

They need a bit of work and have to make a floating pin to meter the oil flow.

Will try to find some pics or the post.

Using these caps they are slightly larger thread so the cap threads need to be machined down also.

 

[Oil pressure switch.]

On 6/17/2023 at 9:51 AM, BoostedRooster712 said:

My turbo oil feed exits there so I'm going to have to look at other options. I'm good for temp sensors, have one in the sump. 

What about an inline fitting like

[Oil pressure switch.]

The only best place is to run it off the main oil gallery sure this had been covered before anyhow using a m16??? With npt adapter this is oil temp sensor 

[Should this hole be blocked off?]

@Jpich85Where does it actually go doesn't seem to be on any engines post 88 
it's too high to be a full width oil gallery sure it's not just a blanked off casting
if it opens to the crankcase maybe part of a defunct oil return route and not pressurised like the gravity head oil return.

be interested to see where it goes 

 

88 750 case pic

 

 

 

[Cell phone mounts]

I do like Quadlock I have both stem mount and bar mount would recommend the vibration damper also but 

CAUTION with their universal mount if your phone does not fit in one of their cases

My experience is the DS tape they supply to attach the mount to back of phone whatever is not that durable and I did clean it super good before attaching.

had been using for a couple of weeks when it decided not to be that sticky lucky found this before the ride 

Replaced it with some 3M heavy duty DS tape and all good

[m-Unit Blue on 750 slingshot]

I use these which you can get from just about anywhere

Cut it in half to get this

Then crimp the wires together using these

Then slide some heat sink over

 

[Teapot frame stiffness]

My thoughts on gsxf handling is the frame is well capable but the rear swinger let's it down as it's too long and twisty it also has a tendency to understeer sort these out and it's fine 

[Teapot frame stiffness]

I've weighted a teapot frame against a 89 gsxr frame and they was only 6 kg difference frame and swinger having cut the rear subframe of mine and replaced it with a ally subframe (there's over 6 kg in the sub frame in itself) it now weighs less than a89 gsxr.  There is little you could do to add extra bracing and the whole chassis is stiff enough I've raced a few bikes and the teapot is capable with anything I've ridden other than a race prepped duccatttiii  and taken it against a 600 supersport my times on the track were comparable to mid field race times and qualify 2nd row on the grid in a hotly contested class  while using standard Metzler roadtech street tires it never felt out of shape or pushed to hard while keeping up with the supersport race bike I obviously would  need some work by  modding all the  original suspenders and it would slay a blandit frame alone in handling  but then I am biased lol 

[Awesome aircooled pictures]

[600 teapot head on a shortstroke 750?]

Think the piston pins are different sizes also 18 on the 600 and 19 on the 750 ???? Have to check

600 has 4mm longer stroke so possibly a base plate needed

Should be basically a big bore 600

If you can put a 750 head and barrel on a 600 theoretically it should fit centers etc head bolt sizes/lengths may be funny

Valves are a little on the small side for the increase in capacity but if you can live with that shouldn't be much more work than putting a DOT head on a B12

[GSX750F & B6 Oil pan difference]

All you need is the new oil pick up strainer I've done the swap.

That tooling doesn't actually match up with anything and IIRC the gasket covers it see pic of corresponding gsxf bottom end

 

Btw I've also gone  the other way  mk1 sump on mk11 engine same

[Awesome aircooled pictures]

[V712 motor]

Well with a lot of tweeks 

1052 crank

some small case mods

 lots of parts

clutch change

Goes on 

Probably the best thing for you is too salvage the gear box and sell it for someone wanting a six speed for their blandit

 

 

 

[V712 motor]

Ah according to the pics it is R712 is 89 750gsxf motor best drop in barrels you could go for is a 1052 and that would need some tweeks

[Cam degreeing]

Interesting question been meaning to ask something similar there is info around on what it does when changing up and down but real world experience would be good 

It takes a bit of mucking round to change so any difference would probably only show up on a Dyno and that would be more painful than carb tuning lol

There's also duration and opening closing times to consider and different cams et Al 

Just for interest an engine I had built up by the only fella I would trust around these parts slotted the inlet to 104 but left the ex at 105 motor goes fine.

My current motor came out at 106.2 In and I had to slot the ex to get down to 106 and feels good and has a good spread of power on the Dyno 

As @Oilyspanner said not far off OEM settings is usually the bump stop 

I think finding the duration cams open and close and the cross over is the more critical thing and effects flow and scavenging etc more complex than I know though

Apart from slight up and down of both together finding the correct cross over duration and timing would be critical to get that 10th degree with In and Ex tuned separately, the straight combined 103 -106 change I don't think would be felt much. 

Any adults???

 

 

 

 

 

[1052 road tuning]

I have a 1052 built up motor with a DOT head just a little port reshaping to remove casting ridge in the intake some deshrouding 38 flatties  @ 12.5 compression (after deshrouding) and on a break in run on the Dyno pulled 5-8hp less than a local well prepared 1127 race bike and was second in 5 gsxr motored bikes.

Having two modified motors both with DOT heads they certainly make them free rev.

The 1052 makes good power to around 10500 thou in this configuration but feels like it would rev itself to death if I let it.

Personally I wouldn't go past the flatties no problem with mid-range and so so so much easier to get right 

 

 

[Suzuki gsx1100f transmission bearing]

I got that bearing from Suzuki in June 2020

Maybe check with Suzuki dealer mine can tell me if available ex factory 

Delivery can take a while so depends on how urgent you need it though

 

 

 

 

[Balancing carbs and adjusting idle]

Just to throw it out there I had trouble with my 750 F carbs and was convinced it was the choke. I found one of the boot rubbers into the airbox loose reglued it like the others with contact adhesive and sorted my running issues so when you check rubbers for leaks also check fitting into the airbox (not saying its the not running thing though)

[Balancing carbs and adjusting idle]

No there is no hole it's just moulded that way only an indent

[Balancing carbs and adjusting idle]

The bungs are there as the gsxf carbs have an additional flow path for fuel compared to gxsr carbs the bungs should be there. Not to sure to what effect they will affect the carbs though but limits the fuel uptake through the jet in favor of the additional fuel circuit that enters the jet half way up fromthe main jet side (like he said)