Blower1

I have RS38s on my 1360cc GSX with dot head. All the other parts as from the box except the one step leaner needles and smaller main jets.

I am following this with great interest. I had the same problems on the GSX engine with cylinder no.2. I changed carburetors, coils, plugs, coil wires, carburetors, ignition unit, but no help. I haven´t opened the cylinder head yet, because the compressions were ok. When I changed to another engine, the problems disappeared.

According to the GSX manual, the clearance is 0.000-0.012 mm when new. When building a forced induction engine, I would say that at least 0.010mm,

Are those front center stud o-rings mandatory or replaceable with standard o-rings without blocking the cooling oil return to the crankcase? I ordered o-rings from local Suzuki shop and get 17mm o-rings instead of 15mm, which is the right size.

Old boost calculation formula: (boost (bar) x compression ratio) + compression ratio = 16 or less is safe. Above 16 needs intercooler and/or lower compression ratio.

I had 11:1 CR on my supercharged 1327cc EFE and E85 & flexfuel. The boost was 0.8 bar and water injection in to the supercharger. Now it´s 10:1CR 1360cc and run mostly with 98 gasoline and same boost as before and water injection. Both fuels working fine, but engine feels a bit crispier with 98 gasoline than with E85. Engine runs cooler with E85.

It was audible on idle too. If you going to lift the cylinder head, check that head gasket not cover the cylinder bores. If it covers, piston can "kiss" the gasket edge in the tdc. That can also be reason for piston slap. I had once head gasket where one cylinder hole was 1mm offset.

It was not so loud. It was audible up to highway speeds. The sound was softer than in connecting rod big end bearing damage. The sound disappeared for a while when the engine was loaded more heavily ( the pistons expanded more than normal).

Piston slap? It not sound so metallic and dissappears when engine have more load. My first "big bore" cylinder block did that because the piston to cylinder wall clearance was slightly over 0,10 mm.

I think a most of the steering damper seals can be found on shops who are selling parts for hydraulics, etc.

I have rebuild several air cooled crankshafts. Most of them for drag race use. Some with Katana rods and some not. None of the cranks I´v received for rebuild have had any issues with connecting rods. Usually they have twisted (broken weld) or big end bearing failure. What I try to say is Katana rods are not mandatory for big power engines. If want beefier and heavier rods the GN250 rods are nearly identical with Katana rods and a lot easier to find. Even those eastern copies of GN250 rods seems to be good material. My supercharged EFE crankshaft don´t have any fancy parts. It´s rebuilt with good used parts and original helical gears. First crankshaft lasted about 20000 street kilometers before crank pin failures. It had slightly over 220 hp and 200 Nm on rear wheel. Clutch basket heavy duty back plate and hd springs are needed to handle big power.

If wanting stronger/heavier connecting rods, you can buy new GN250 rods from bay of e or axpress of a. Only difference to 1075 /1135 rod big end bearing is that bearing surface on the rod is wider and bearing have one roller less.

Unwelded cranks are prone to twist with higher power than stock. Get the crankshaft inspected, rebuilt and welded. Then it´s good for bigger horsepower.

VHT engine enamel, universal aluminum color. When it´s once heated to +100C, it is petrol resistant.