canamant
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Posts posted by canamant
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I just drilled a hole in the cast section and bolted it right on. Only did it because I'd been told you had to have one on for the Manx (wrongly) when I went as a newcomer in 2012. It was awful and I binned it after one lap. Scrutineers thought I was mad with no damper but it didn't need one. I did fit a borrowed Ohlins unit for the 2016 MGP and it only made it's presence felt once at the Milntown leap when it landed crossed up. One slap and I had it back under control.
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I've seen worse than that and put it back together. Suggest you check what shells you have fitted already and buy the next tighter shell and test fit it. Note that there are no "undersize" shells just different toleances.
Also remember that a 90/91 crank cant be swapped with a 88/89 crank.
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But that braced frame didn't go as fast as the unbraced one that followed it (ahem).
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If you fit schraeder valves you lose the mechanical preload adjuster. I'd get the spring rate right first, oil level, seals and bushes. Or you could just leave them as standard and still do a 99mph lap of the TT Course on them without a steering damper.
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On 24/05/2017 at 1:47 AM, bluedog59 said:
Tying the lever back has a use. You put pressure in the system, you can't compress a fluid but you can compress the air in the system and so the air pressure in any bubbles rises and the bubble are more inclined to rise up in the system.
A few taps on the hoses and they'll all be waiting for you when you "waggle the lever" and back bleed it up through the m/c.
Been doing it like that for years.
Thank you for the clarification. Just tying the lever back on its own doesn't get rid of the bubbles. The first bit of advice is often trotted out without the second bit to get rid of the accumulated air.
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Tying the lever back does naff all. The reason for spongy brakes is little bubbles trapped in the system. If it is in the master cylinder, take the assembly off the handlebar and with the lever pointing up give the lever a waggle, the air trapped in the high point of the cylinder will bubble up the cylinder into the reservoir. Much more effective than putting a rubber band on the lever.
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Rule Number 1. Steer clear of anything that has had its frame or engine number altered. There is no compelling reason to change a number.
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No way Jose. Cast magnesium of that age ? They let us run modern wheels in the Classic TT because the cast magnesium ones are known to turn nasty with age. I'd put that swingarm in the same category.
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750 slab head and dot head are different around he camcahin tunnel area. It will bolt on but the camchain tunnels are different sizes do the mating faces don't match.
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That linkage is set in the "up for up" (or "wrong" :-) ) arrangement. The angles between the two levers and the connecting rod should be 90 degrees or thereabouts. If you flip the selector shaft lever about 180 degrees to give down for up the angles aren't perfect but it still selects OK without binding. Sounds like you might have a seized component either the lever on th eboss, the shaft through the cover. Rose joints are ususally rther sloppy anyway.
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.... someone bought a 750M engine with an externally damaged head with an externally damaged head. It was stripped and found to contain lots of trick parts including balanced crank and highly polished and balanced rods, forged pistons, ported head, manual lock up tensioner. Said engine was treated to a 860 conversion with lightened pistons to keep balance factor, 750M clutch conversion on slabby actuator, lightly ported slabby head, and the manual tensioner. It performed faultlessly at Aintree. On taking it to the IOM it spat its oil all over the rear tyre on the 2nd lap of practice at about 140mph up the Mountain Mile. What had happened was the manual tensioner did not have the same shock absorbing qualities as the OE unit and the prolonged high revs battered the tensioner and thus the bolts holding it onto the barrels. The bolts loosened off and the oil pissed out of the tensioer housing and all over the rear of the bike. There was one very relieved marshal standing in the road waving a flag like mad at me. Next turn was the flat out kink at the end of the Mountain Mile - it wouldn't have ended well. Creg Ny Baa gave me a standard auto tensioner which we fitted in the paddock and it remained there for the rest of the meeting and the 5 years after. Totally reliable with a built in damper.
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well it's not that then :-)
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YJ take that tensioner off and replace with a proper one. You know what happened to my engine when I fitted one.
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did you put the plugs back on the vacuum point ?
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How bad is it ? If it is just surface you might get away with a clean up/hone.
If it really is knackered it would be cheaper to get another set of 70mm cylinders rather than 4 pistons, 4 sets of rings and the rebore.
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Pick up and maybe the head return pipes in the sump.
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Oily Spanner is spot on
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long stroke ones, 70mm bore. GSXR759 FGH (65/86/87) or 1990/1991. Also later 750 teapot had a long stroke 70mm bore. You'll need the pistons too !
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That must have been some rev you gave it. :-)
What did you find that had caused the exhaust cam timing to shift ?
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Oil coolers can withstand quite a bit of flattening/blocking. My Manx Grand Prix/TT bike's cooler is a right mank but it didn't overheat to the point you could smell it.
You haven't got a blocked jet or something have you causing it to run lean and hotter ?
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a bigger engine will give a harder "suck" on a given jet so will sort of compensate by providing more fuel for the increased air flow. You could well go for the smaller pilot jet especially while running in. Cregnybaa has some good experience of getting RS36 and 38s running on big engines.
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It is not unusual to have a different spoke count front and rear. Some Kawasakis had 40 spoke rears and 36 spoke fronts and my CanAm has a 40 spoke rear and a 36 spoke front. Admitedly you would probably notice 56 to 36.
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The GSX discs aren't bad. Try the standard calipers with decent pads and braided hoses and good dot 4 or dot 5.1 fluid. I used to run that setup on my GS750 fitted with GSX discs with Dunlopads and it was sweet. There must be even better materials today.
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Any of the GS/GT spoked front hubs should go in the shafties.
GSX-R 750 (1986) (GR75A) Help Rear Wheel swap
in Oil Cooled
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A 160/60 is the wrong tyre for the 4 inch rim. 150/70 is correct. I also sem to remember that some of the last batches of 750 slabbies came with a 4 inch rim.. Long time ago so memory might be playing tricks.