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Posts posted by canamant
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This has been sorted now thanks. Took a punt on the 2nd half of the part number being generic bearing number and found it was the right OD. Can't get the bolt or sleeve though but found that Z1000/Z900 gudgeon pin is correct OD but stlightly smaller ID so will bore it out on lathe and shorten to suit.
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Does anyone know the bearing number or dimensions of the pair of needle bearings that go inside the eccentric on the rocker. I can get a bolt and make the sleeve if I know the bearing number or ID
Rhanks
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Odd that the total teeth number doesn't add up to the same for all engines. Some must have a different alternator housing to gearbox primary shaft spacing.
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Well finally got the courage to get the head off the donor bike engine. Came off without much trouble but what lurked under it was as I expected. Cylinder 1 was full of rust. cylinder 4 better and 2 and 3 not that bad. Getting the cylinder off was another story. Didn't lose my temper but the hardwood block approach on the outerair ports did break 2 fins but they are pretty much useless there anyway. I think the cylinders are way beyond a hone . Pistons and rings have survived though. What makes a previous dickhead owner leave it out in the rain uncovered for 10 years with no petrol cap on the tank ????? Good job I only gave scrap weight money for it.
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In my experience sliding down the road does little damage anyway apart from snapping off the ally bits that stick out which you then unbolt and bolt new ones on. However if anything that doesn't give or snap off catches and digs in then it's going upwards and no bobbins in the world will save it. As our OSS GSXR frames are relatively light and fragile, I'd take heed of warnings above about breaking frames and engines as a result of having crash bobbins. I hit a stationary bike lying in the track at about 80 mph at the start of a race in 2015, destroyed all the bodywork, snapped the fins off the block and caved the (pristine) tank, but the frame, bars, exhaust, engine, etc all survived intact ready to race a few months later at the Manx.
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Appreciated
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3 hours ago, wraith said:
Got a b12 bottom yoke in the for sale section, with I believe a gsxr stem in it 30mm top and bottom bearings, if it helps make me a offer
Thanks Wraith but 30mm top and bottom is an odd size All bandits and GSXRs take 30mmID bottom and 25mm ID top.
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please do thanks
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Seeing as slabby 1100 forks and yokes are getting thin on the ground, is the 600 or 1200 bandit yoke set a straight fit into slabby frame ? not bothere dabout locck stops etc matching up as have other arrangement for that.
Thanks
Ant
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Where ? All I could find was stanchion length not overall length. I'm thinking of using Powerscreen fork tubes in 750 slabby sliders for my 1100 race bike build.
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Your mate broke the golden rule. That's why I don't sell bikes. Got a few out on permanent loan at the moment to a few friends. They might be the registered keeper but not the owner.
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I discarded the 2 R clips and link the 2 pins with lockwire. Scrutineer at MGP never batted an eyelid at it.
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I've been running 180/33 or 180/60 on Slabby Racer 1 and 2 (750s) but I'm converting them to 4.5 inch and 160/60 or 170/60. 2 reasons, first it will help with turn in as the 180 does tent to be a bit reluctant, and secondly it wil free up 2 rears for SuperSlabbyRacer 11 in the process of being created.
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If that is a slabby 750 engine. I've dopne loads of tese and never fitted any seal at 1 and 2 other than the hard rubber lip seals. Never had a leak and these engines are race units which have been HAMMERED.
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Will do.
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The powerscreen engine is orrible but we'll get it stripped and inspected and wee where we go. Not looking for more power, just standard parts and a careful set up . Maybe some carbs if anyone has any for sale. Not sure about pipe yet.
I'm also not decided about forks and yokes. I've got a set of newly refurbished 750 forks which I believe are too short. Might end up fitting the powerscreen stanchions to the slabby sliders and clamping them up in the powerscreen yokes or some shimmed B12 ones. All fluid at the moment. One thing I do know about the fron end is period Lockheeds are on the shelf and ready to go.
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Well where are we at this moment in time ? One 750 is in one piece ready to run (well it was running last time I used it in September) so we'll assume that one is a goer for the coming season. It has only done 6 or 7 meetings since getting it's 860 kit and cam tweaks so it's getting overlooked for now.
The other 750 has had it's rebuilt engine fitted into the frame and is getting built up again. This one has had new cases fitted after the previous version shat its gearbox accelerating down Glencrutchery Road during the last practice of the 2016 Manx GP. I missed the race as it happened on the Saturday afternoon and the race was on the Monday.
Slabby 1100 is in the process of being built from bits. Frame has been stripped of some awful powder coating and painted silver chrome which doesn't look too bad at 10 feet.
Following pictures show what I'm dealing with at the moment.
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Rick
Make a little cross piece about 3 inches long out of a bit of 2 - 3 mm ally plate and bolt it to the bottom "prong" of the lower fairing bracket. You can then bolt the fairing to this plate with 2 bolts, One of the 750s I have had this arrangement as standard (ie a T piece at the bottom front) The other one has the bracket yo picture and has been modified.
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the watercooled GSXR that Dan Hegarty did 120 on ath the IOM last year had an ignitech ignition syste. Cully (the owner) and Geoff Martin were impressed with the unit.
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Are you putting an entry in Jim ?
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Thanks. I'll look for an R6 unit to play about with. Very happy with R1 in SR1.
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Yes. They must think it is made of some magical formula that only squeezes to the outside.....
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1100 L fuel tap alternative
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I have made an adapter from a piece of aluminium plate which bolts on to the tank and fitted a simple on/off valve designed for gasses and solvents. Not tried it yet though.