canamant
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Posts posted by canamant
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On 10/28/2017 at 4:27 PM, Macduff said:
Probably a stupid question .. Do all those disks have the same bolt center diameter?
It is usually referred to as pitch circle diameter or PCD.
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Slabby forks are OK if set up properly. The 43mm conventional forks fitted to 88/89/90? GSXRs have compression and rebound damping adjustment whereas the slabby units only have compression (or single) damping adjustment. However, the range of damping adjustment on any production bike fork of the day will be minimal. The factories will have configured the range of adjustment so that the owner (who may well have zero idea) cannot completely screw it up to the point of dangerous and then try and blame the bike manufacturer for a subsequent instability and crash.
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Thanks - that suggests that they do come apart somehow.
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Lovely Swiss Toni.
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Thanks - I have that info too. Thought somebody on here might have found a way of getting one apart - and just as importantly getting it back together again. Looks like I'm going to be the guinea pig.
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Hi All
Has anyone ever managed to disimantle the damping adjuster unit on the bottom of slabby forks ? The adjuster ring is titted on what looks like a riveted spindle. The splines have gone on one of mine as the ring turns butt he plunger does not move. Is it serviceable or do I need to put an Ad in Wanted ?
Thanks
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For start and idle circuits, the exhaust and filters should have no effect as the restriction of a closed slide is bigger than any filter that could be fitted.
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Mine hasn't been touched in 6 years racing and 3 Manx Grands Prix. Still working well.
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Don't know the numbers but I would go with straight cut gears even if it means having to scout around for a clutch. Easier to do it now rather than later.
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If you are going racing with it, helical gears tend to put side load on the crank, clutch, gearbox. I'd try and keep the straight cut assembly.
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I think he means is it worth putting the 750 cams in the 600 engine first rather than just swapping engines. In a word - no. Probably. There is no substitute for cubes so in general getting a smaller engine to shift more fuel and air is only worth it if you are restricted by capacity. You might well get more gains by adjusting the cam timing and phasing with the 600 cams than going to 750 cams. I've done camgraphs for a few different camshafts and they are not that different to each other apart from the set of regrinds I have which had more lift and a touch more duration, but the engine didn't need more lift or duration to operate in the region we needed it to. Standard cams are quite good.
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On 9/6/2017 at 7:17 PM, cregnybaa said:
All of my bikes are 6 speed but I have not used bandit cases on any of them. just built a new big engine using 750 cases and box. I think the problem you have could be something to do with the bigger output bearing
Not those shonky old things again !!
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Cheers !. Thought one of the 600s had a small disc but mounting hole PCD must be different.
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Bloody horrible corner 2nd only to Guthrie's.
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Thanks Swiss Toni. I was thinking along the lines of newer bikes. All the old slabby ones appear to be worn thin now and scrutes tend to frown on worn down brake components !
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I'm fed up swapping discs on my slabby race bikes when I change wheels. Anyone know what other suzuki model disc fits the rear wheel. 750FGH is 220mm. Got a few sets of wheels for each slabby so going to need a good few discs !
Thanks
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No short stroke piston will fit an any long stroke crank/rod.
ZX9 piston conversion is not straightforward. You will need to be good with dial gauges and degree discs and know what cam timing and VTP etc you will need for the type of engine you want. The machining will be expensive too for 8 bores and hones, then comes a dirty/dry build to get the deck height, block skim, custom made gasket. I've done a few of them because of race regulations at the time and not one of them was the same so I couldn't give numbers. Each one had to be individually measured and built It is bloody expensive way to get a few more ccs and horses. Unless I was forced down that road I wouldn't bother unless you like the fiddling.
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You got off light with that bust gearbox bearing. Mine went at the top of Bray Hill during qualification fo rthe 2016 Manx GP/Classic TT just after I'd pulled out of the pitlane. It's a cheap fix really - just a second hand gearbox. My box was OK but seeing as the beating would have been awkwrd to get off the shaft and I had a spare one available I just replaced the complete shaft. Your sump gasket should be about a tenner, Clutch gasket similar, and ign cover about a fiver. I make my own so it was cost free for me. One tip. When replacing the alternator, make sure the gear engages cleanly with the drive gear on the bak of the clutch basket otherwise it will break and there will be tears
When you split the cases there are 2 hidden fastenersone on each side of the gearbox area. They are M6 10mm nuts, There are also 2 sneaky allen head bolts hidden by the oul filter. To get one of the outer main studs out you will also need to remobe the main oil gallery blanking plug (allen driver). Good luck.
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Haven't seen picture 1 and Picture 5 before. All the ones I saw just had 2 XR69s and 2 TT riders in the shot ..........
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Slabby cases, M crank clutch and gearbox, slabby bandit 600 cylinders with J/K liners, slabby cams, slabby ignition, slabby carbs. Made 108 bhp but more importantly 58lbft at 8000rpm at rear wheel for Manx Grand Prix. Then we really played with it and it knocked over a second off my regular lap times on a 1 minute lap. Didn't re-test it but to actually notice a difference you need about 10% so I'd hazard a conservative guess at 115 to 120 bhp. Enough to live with bigger stuff. Creg is right though, a big 750 won't ever go as well as an 1100 based engine. We've done well getting close to a 1052 output at 1000rpm more but to get significantly more would be stressing the components a bit too much for reliability. BTW that power is achieved with a quiet exhaust system. 98 dB when the limit is 105dB so it could be 4 times noisier.
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On 7/30/2017 at 11:58 PM, cregnybaa said:
No 1052/1127 will both go in.
Creg, the lad has a set of750 L cases which the 1052/1127/748 cranks won't fit. I had to use a mixture of slabby 750 and 750L/M bottom end omponents to get my overbored slabby engine to workc.
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I have 2 slabbies. I got one out intact. The other I had to butcher.
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Yes, but I'd be cautious about boring out the rods. If he was talking about fitting the 73mm barrels and head with a spacer plate I'd be on the lookout for a suitable piston to fit the standard rod.
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Combustion chamber might be a bit small and it probably won't breathe very well. 750s are bit of a pain with rgard to parts swapping. cylinders, ;istons. heads, cranks. rods and cases cant be swapped between long and short strokes. Clutches and input gear shafts can't be swapped between slabbies and JKLM slingshots although they can be modified to fi. Some of the spares you have you would have to get a short stroke engine to use.
Slabside/slingshot forks/yokes
in Oil Cooled
Posted
nlovien
Slabby forks are simle to do. As long as the seals and the bushes are in good condition I just set the fork oil level at 110mm from the top of the tube with the springs removed and the forks compressed. I also put 4 pre-decimal pennies on top of the spacer tube and flat washer. Fork springs are standard. Oil weight was #10. I am 18 stone. Bike has lost a lot of weight as all the road gear is junked.