canamant
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Posts posted by canamant
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4 hours ago, Arttu said:
A bit late reply but here is a photo how Denso 129700-4400 coils look 1127 engine. These were from '05 GSX-R1000 and apparently they have been used on many other 1000 & 600 models as well. Slightly difficult to say for sure but looks like they sit lower than yours.
That gasket goo looks a bit iffy :-)
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Great Pictures. Did you grow into them leathers Geoff ???
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oil cooler take off points may be different beteween the long stroke and short stroke 750s ?mifght need to change the sumps.
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2 hours ago, Rene EFE said:
When I got used to it, it didn’t really slow me down anymore, it was just a bit different from what I’m used to.
Still gonna brace my swingarm though, just because I can
That's the problem with this whole issue. It's comparing a slabby with what people are used to. Slabbies are a product of what was raced at the time, by the technology and manufacturing processes available at the time, not to mention rider expectations too. They looked like F1 bikes and performed exactly like F1 bikes of the time. My racing partner happens to work with Roger Marshall, and when we were converting the slabbies for FE racing in the early 2000s he had a good chat with Roger about them and what we could expect out of them. Roger told him that he was initially hesitant about riding the 750s at the TT as he didn't like "road" bikes. To cut a long story short by the time he'd got to the bottom of Bray Hill on the thing he was convinced it was a race bike. So they do handle like race bikes of the time, different to the big heavy 1000cc F1 bikes that went before, and the stiffer beam framed bikes that followed. We just need to remember that they perform flawlessly for what they are.
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On 1/4/2018 at 10:09 PM, cregnybaa said:
I don't know what most of the others run today, but I have got one 1100 with elongated chain adjusters and it does turn quicker with no side effects and I have used the short swingarm in the 750 with no problems.
CregNyBaa has had quite a bit of input into my bikes helping me with running them in the Manx and Classic TT. Both now have longer swingarms but originally one was long and one short. The differences to me were so small that other factors such as the suspension unit, settings, going from 18 inch to 17 inch wheels, and even the seat foam (swapped seats between bikes) had as much effect on the feel. Currently both 750s have the longer swingarm, simply because that was what I could find when I needed to change the shorter one.
Those 750s in the Production TTs above were on 18 inch wheels on a course that was slower than the one today. Can't remember the weather but I can't see the longer swingarm knocking a minute off the laptime.
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Another cheaper option is a 1100 slabby frame. CregNyBaa from here has built a good few of these (no bracing, standard swingarm) and these have lapped the Mountain Course at about 116mph. We think that this is the fastest a standard framed slabby GSXR1100 had ever lapped the course in 2016.
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On 12/11/2017 at 10:13 PM, dupersunc said:
Have to noticed any difference with the frame bracing?
Trying to decided if I go down that route with my slabbie race bike.
I've got 2 750 slabby race bikes neither of which have any addtional bracing. They have both lapped the TT course at just shy of 100mph. CregNyBaa averaged over 100mph when he finished 3rd in the 2010 Classic Superbike Manx GP on an unbraced slabby 750. I've no idea whether you could go faster on a braced version but I'm in no doubt that I was the limiting factor not the frame. Personally I would not brace the frame anyway. It's designed so that the stresses go where they go and the frame can deal with it. Brace it up and put more load through it and who knows where the extra load will go. It will find the next weakest point which may not be able to cope. Snapped frame at the bottom of Barregarroo anyone ?
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Hoping to better 3rd place Aintree FE championship. Have to get to grips with an 1100 from a 750/860. And better my 4th place in the minitwins class too.
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PM me a price please FBOB. With 4 GSXR race bikes to feed now I need all the help I can get. I'm not being greedy - I'm putting other lads out on them to help fill some grids
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Anyone know what size bandit 600 rear wheel is. Toying with idea of trying a narrower rear wheel and tyre comination on Slabby Racer 1 for the roads to get it to turn faster and be less of a handfull. I'm hoping it is 4 1/2 inches for a 160
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what are you doing with the "spare" set ?
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You need a lot of heat and on all 4 pipes at the same time to get the Ti tubes to bend and stay bent. I did it but took it off as I was concerned about the stresses causing problems on a racing machine.
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It won't have enough power to loft the front anyway..............
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So if the "roll" isn't perfect the damper rod could pull through the bottom of the stanchion.......
I might think twice about the ride now YJ !
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15 hours ago, OX88 said:
The short stroke pistons/cranks are 19mm in the small end if memory serves me right. But I'm aware of the possibility of pistons from/intended for other engines.
I only have long stroke engines so my default setting is 18mm !
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Big bore 750s are a lot of fun. Doesn't have to be GSXR specific piston as long as it has an 18mm little end and a reasonable deck height. You can skim or shim small corrections. Overly short or long pistons will run you into timing chain issues.
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You could fit the 748 liners and search for a set of pistons that will fit but the machining costs are a bit steep for 4 aluminium bores and then 4 liner bores. I toyed with fitting an 1100 barrel on a 750 long stroke and getting pistons out of a modern engine but the amount of meat you need to remove to get the deck height right would not leave sufficient flange (ooh I said "flange) at the top or bottom of the barrel to maintain strength.
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YJ It's about time this bike saw the white heat of battle
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Good luck for next year Anna. Shiny side up !!
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I put a piece of wood through the rear wheel and lodge the spoke against the wood against the swinging arm with a bit of cloth to protect it and then use a 24 inch breaker bar on the socket.
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A QA twistgrip with flatties will make the action much heavier. Possibly to the point of discomfort round town or on long runs. Also remember that flatties don't necessarily like being opened fast.
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I have 3 750 tanks with 2 different bolt spacings. Anyone know where to get simple on/off fuel taps to fit ?
Thanks
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The units on teh front of the forks aren't adjusters in the normal sense, they are solenoid operated compression damping units which operate on the brake light system. Blanking plates are available on the Bay of E. I don't know whether the plares have a small bypass channel in them or are just a blocking plate. On 750s, they are multiposition compression damping adjusters and from what I can see on mine, blanking them off would more or less cause the fork to hydraulic with only the blow off valve to relieve pressure.
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Black art. Due to production tolerances the standard timing marks may not be accurate. Always better to do your own timing check with a degree wheel and dial gauge. See what you get then see if it is different to the Suzuki specifications. I have slotted cam sprockets on both my race bikes and on my set up the standard camshaft marks are way out.
Suitable replacement 1100 slabby rear damper unit
in Oil Cooled
Posted
My 1100 slabby frame and swingarm comes back from the painters tomorrow so it's time to think about building up the chassis. I need a shock absorber. Any suggestions out there ? The Chart says 315mm stroke. Slabby Racer 1 and 2 (750 frames ahve an R1 and a Hagon shock. R1 obviously too short and just seeing of ther is an alternative to the 1100 Hagon from some other bike. Its for SuperSlabby 1 race bike
Thanks