Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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1 hour ago, markfoggy said:
Oh, you probably want some M6 screws, possibly M8 .
Is it one of these?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1975/gt250
Yup, found them on there. Cheers!
I need to fix a leaky petcock, the engine was recently rebuilt so it should be good, and some new tires and battery and it’ll hopefully be finished for now.
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Stock petcock? Might be time to swap it for a Pingle or a NOS if it’s flowing fuel while sitting in the “ON” position with the engine off. I haven’t used the bandit petcocks, but the rebuild kits for the GSXR ones are all garbage.
The float needle tips should also stop the flow if the petcock isn’t, so as said above, both should be checked. Sometimes a float can get stuck as well and will allow fuel to flow through, but the petcock still shouldn’t be free flowing. You should also plan on doing an oil change as there is definitely gas in their now.
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22 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Much of a muchness really - Bandit barrels would be my preference if I was doing another - 80mm bore for 1186cc and use MTC turbo pistons 10:1 CR if low boost but crowns are thick enough to machine down to 8:1 CR for Loadsa boost!
Thanks, the bandit engine is also the fresher of the two, so I’ll plan on using it for the turbo build when the time comes.
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4 hours ago, Dezza said:
'Upgrading'
to a GT 380 front end seems like it may offer little benefit but result in the demise of what looks like a really nice stock, ancient early GT 250.
True, I’ll have to see how it is with the stock forks and brake. I haven’t used a front drum since the old Yamaha dt400 I used to have, and it was extremely underpowered for that.
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12 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
Turbo is the answer. As much low end torque as you want.
And then sell me the Yoshi Duplex.
Turbo is always the answer, but I want to build an NA bike first. Which engine would be the better one to use for the turbo, 1127 or blandit?
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11 hours ago, vizman said:
....but then replace the front end?
Yeah, ideally something with the same diameter forks so I can keep the stock triples.
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Currently missing the bolts and I'd like to get something that looks factory.
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Last year my 7/11 was stolen and it’s time to build a new GSXR.
I’ve got an 1100 rolling project to pull parts from, it currently has I think an M 1127 engine in it, RS38s, and a yosh full duplex. The 750W swing arm is a left over from when I was riding it as an 11/7 while finishing my 7/11, and for the last decade has mainly been a rolling collection of parts.
The slabbie is the next one I want to build, it currently has a stock bandit 12 in it, I’ve got a dot head that I could slap on it, as well as a choice of BST38s or the slingshot RS38s. Will probably be using the Yosh I have on my slingshot on it. I’m not even sure if I can fit the BST38s with either head or if I can fit the RS38s with the dot head in that frame. I’m used to slingshots and have never used a bandit motor before, also looking for recommendations on an easy swap to get a braced swing arm in it. It does currently have a mid 2000s GSXR 1K front end on it again.
So which combo of parts should I use? I’m used to the lack of bottom end with the RS38s around town, so using them again won’t be a big deal, but I would kinda like to take advantage of all that low end torque.
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Recently picked up an old GT250 and I need to replace the bolts that hold the seat to the fender. Anyone have any idea what size they are? Thanks. Also if anyone knows of easy front end swaps, I hate drum brakes.
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They're the same. Galfer lists the same part numbers for the slingshots and all of the W 1100s.
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1 minute ago, Duckndive said:
I use a pair of these on my RS38s
Item no 350635171659 on you know where offer them £20
I'm running those same filters on the same carbs. When I looked up the cleaning/oiling kits from ramair, I found this.
Ramair filters owe much of their dirt retaining properties to the unique advanced polymer treatment with which they are impregnated during manufacture. They can be given a new lease of life when they become heavily soiled by cleaning them thoroughly with Ramair polymer solvent cleaner and applying fresh Treatment to the foam filter material.So I'm not gonna worry about them until I need to clean them.
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Hell, guess I should oil mine then.
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Mine are dry and I've always ran them dry. But no idea if they're supposed to be oiled or not.
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Those 675 wheels are light, but I've seen the front and rear destroyed on friend's bikes when they've hit pot holes on the freeway here. Not really sure how durable they're going to be on an even heavier bike. Also trumpet oem parts and bits are fucking over priced.
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30 minutes ago, boilerdude said:
Jesus. Check what? Check the valves every 3k miles? Really?
That's what I read years ago with the tappet (screw and lock nut) heads was the valve interval, been doing it that way ever since. I always thought it was a bit excessive, but compared to some high tuned dirt bikes with 1K mile valve intervals, I didn't question it too much. What is it supposed to be?
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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
You may have to trim the ignition timing due to the compression hike. And a couple of points up on the mains MAY be required to cool thing down a bit!
Thanks, not sure if it has a stock ignition or an aftermarket ignition advancer on it currently. I'll make sure it doesn't have an old +5 on it or anything crazy like that.
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Thanks, never even thought of pulling the carbs to get the valve cover off the back.
So all I need is the following...
Dot head
Inlets and appropriate O rings for the dot head
Head gasket
Should I plan on booking dyno time again after I get the head swapped? It was dyno tuned previously when the RS38s were installed.
Now I just need to find time to clean the garage and go through that dot head and make sure it's in good shape and start ordering any needed parts.
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Considering finally swapping the head on my 91 1100 engine to a dot head I have sitting on a shelf. Anything I need other than a head gasket? Currently have RS38s on the bike, which intakes should I use? I've searched the forum, but other than it being an easy swap, haven't seen what is actually required.
My other question is I haven't run a tappet head in years, gotta check them every 3K miles right? Just preparing myself for frequently dropping the engine in my 7/11.
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Verify you have spark and fuel? Pull a plug and hold it with the lead on it against the engine while cranking. You should also be able to smell fuel while cranking, or pull a plug and it should be wet. When you checked the valves, did you pull the cams? If the cams are 180 out the engine will turn over fine, but you'll feel it sucking on the exhaust rather than blowing. CDI hooked up?
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Depending on carb size, something from another bike should fit. But if one of them broke, you might want to replace all of them before the rest fail. As far as I know, Suzuki is still making the intake boots for now. You might be able to find a used set on that site, though you'll want new gaskets for them.
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Your stock shock is way too long. Here's the right rate spring for about EUR 150 shipped.
http://www.Eblag.ie/itm/Ohlins-Shock-Spring-01091-24-80-USED-/292008360220?hash=item43fd0df91c:g:jKIAAOSw2xRYhotk
Otherwise, buy a new one. Either way, you can sell off your old one after you get them swapped. Yellow springs are always going to get dirty, try some chain cleaner on it.
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1 minute ago, Dazzler said:
Should that vacuum hose be blocked off while i have the aux fuel bottle attached or does it not matter?
Yup, blocked off. You'll have a nasty vacuum leak with it open.
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The hose coming off the carb boot should go to the vacuum port on the petcock.
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11 hours ago, Gammaboy said:
Well, unless you've got a Yosh Carb heat shield... doh!
No heat shield and no nasty fairings to get in the way either.
GT250 Hustler random bolts
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
I’d love to ditch the stock pipes and throw some expansion chambers on them, HiggSpeed is the only place that I’ve been able to find them so far, but not looking to spend that much money on this thing just yet.