Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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The rotors are 330mm. I tried contacting PM, but their website throws an error every time I try and contact them. And I found the pads. FA216/3HH, they're mostly used on PM calipers and other cruisers. No idea if PM ever sold a kit for GSXRs or someone set these up themselves. Still curious to see how they perform.
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Posting this here because they were on a 95 750W when I got them. Any idea what pads these are? Also what should I do about these rotors? Was thinking run the current pads till the rotors are nice and clean and get new pads. Logic being the rotors on my truck rust constantly when it sits and then clean up under normal use.
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32 minutes ago, Mutley said:
Update...all fitted...used Bandit inlet rubbers...velocity stacks and air socks...
...and she is like a different bike...loads more stomp...worked pretty much out of the box...
My only concern now...is how the hell do you get to the balancer outlets once they are on the bloody bike...
...as the ones for 2 and 3 are down tight behind the engine...
You balance flat slides off the bike. Use a small drill bit under the slide to make sure they're all even, adjuster is under the cap.
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26 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
The 'K' was a long stroke 1127 for us in UK / Europe!
I was talking about 750s. Valves are too small to be an 1100 head. Our 1100s in the states are the same as yours, only the 750s stuck around longer here.
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L would make sense. It was an odd ball year, first year back as a long stroke and last year with tappets.
Checked my factory manual. L heads had 27 intake and 24 exhaust valves.
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Do you have the valve cover that goes to it or the original cams or anything? It's not an 1100, valves are too small. F engines were painted silver. Maybe a slabby or bandit head?
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Find a wiring diagram and you can swap the wires around in the plug to the correct order. Or I think you can remove the electrical part of the and swap them between ignitions.
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Engine was out of the bike, do you have the signal pickup plugged in? I'd start with pulling the cover off the pickup and working your way from there to the CDI and then to the coils and plugs. Hopefully it's something simple like that.
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Needles are Ti, I'd lowered them previously because the emulsion tubes were warn, put them back to the recommended setting with the new emulsion tubes. I need to pull them and check the float heights again, part of why I haven't touched them in over a week. Ordered a set of replacement O rings for the cages that hold the floats in place, and been dealing with home repairs and decided I needed to swap the forks and front brakes
. Might try working on them again today otherwise it'll be next week.
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I've had good experiences and bad experiences with them over the years. If there are any faults in your charging/starting system, a lithium battery is pretty good at finding them. At the same time, I've had them in dirt bikes where I know the charge was all over the place and never had any problems, but it was also a kick only bike. Only thing they really don't like is the cold. Turning the headlights on for a minute while getting your gear on before trying to start the bike was usually enough when I used to run one year round.
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Check the charging mod thread in this section. People do run them on old GSXRs.
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So I swapped an idle bolt over on to some GSXR750 carbs that had a cable. The bolt spring is too long, you'll need to use the cable spring, and the mount is angled on the cable setups, where it's flat on the bolt setups, but the threads match and the bolt goes in. Not the easiest thing to reach, but it should work.
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You can try running a heavier gauge wire from the solenoid to the starter, as well as from the battery to the solenoid. There was a kit for one of my old bikes that replaced the starter cable with a 4 awg to the starter and added a 6 awg from the battery to the relay in addition to the factory cable. It helped a lot with the large voltage drops those bikes would get when trying to start them.
Could also be your starter solenoid. Try bypassing the solenoid with a heavy gauge wire from the battery directly to the starter and see if it's any better. That'll also tell you if your battery is up to it. And check your ground wire too, you can also increase the gauge of that wire.
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I'll check tomorrow if one of the bolt adjusters will work with a cable adjuster carb. The bolts you can still get, unlike the cables, and they're readily available on Eblag.
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Just enough that the butterflies are barely open. I always adjust it once it’s running and don’t really worry about it before then.
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It should be a steel cable inside the housing. Quick photo of spare carbs.
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Yeah, I think we get the same parts sold as K&L here in the states. Tourmax doesn't really exist here as a brand.
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3 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
give the float bowl a tap with a rubber hammer, sometimes the valves stick, if no luck it could be the seat or the valve leaking.
What he said! If tapping it doesn't work, open it back up and make sure the float is moving freely and everything is seated properly. I'm never surprised anymore to have one or two floats stick after working on the carbs and reinstalling them.
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No filter from the factory other than the one in the petcock. You can run them inline depending on how the inside of your tank looks.
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I don't think those brackets or the cables are available anymore. Check Eblag for a used one or new old stock. Or you could try and convert it to the GSXR1100 style where it's a straight screw that sits between carbs 2 and 3 and adjusts from the bottom. Harder to get to, but I think you can still get them. Though not 100% that you can swap them, I don't have any F carbs to check.
Suzuki always sold the cable and bracket as one unit, don't think you can separate them. Some of the GSXR 750 cables just had a wire bracket that you could pop off, but that style I think was built into it.
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Yeah, cam heads got different valves. APE Race Parts sells aftermarket ones for them, so you should be able to find them in whatever country you're in.
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Swapping out emulsion tubes has turned into almost a full tuneup now. Floats were all off, and I was lazy and didn’t bench test the float valves before putting the carbs back on. Flooded and fouled the plugs. Finally pulled them tonight and they’re shot.
New plugs are on order, gonna pull the carbs off again tomorrow and double check the floats and bench test the valves this time. It’s gonna be really nice here by the end of the week, need to get this back on the road. -
11 minutes ago, Dezza said:
I think a sticky is needed in oilcooled because this is a recurring topic: "do not buy an expensive radial clutch master cylinder with a 16mm diameter piston or you'll end up with clutch drag."
Every time someone posts up the correct expensive clutch MC that will work with our bikes I always tell myself I should make a note of that, never do and can never remember the part number. All I ever remember is that most of them won't work with these giant clutch slave cylinders.
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
Really? Have you been to Californi (swimming pools, movie stars)? Whenever I have been there it looked to me like a whole lot of petrol-head culture.
Same about Sudcos
CA always got their own version of motorcycles with smaller carbs. Smog used to be really bad, especially in LA, so they got strict on emissions to clean it up. I don't really agree with all the restrictions they put on stuff, but I also would never want to go back to how bad the smog used to be. Most companies won't even sell jet kits or race exhausts in CA anymore, illegal to use on the street there.
Sucks about Sudco, but for the life of me I can't remember if I ever ordered anything from them or not over the years.
PM Brakes
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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It's the weekend, no one's there. The compounds are all the same, these pads are standard EBC HH pads. I was mainly asking for the pad part number, as I could only make out the last of it and when I tried cleaning the back, it took the writing off as well. Some creative googling pulled it up.
They're mainly an aftermarket cruiser supplier now, but I think they did make sports bikes parts back in the 80s and 90s. Similar to how Vance & Hines used to make tons of sports bike stuff and now mainly sticks to drag racing and cruiser parts. Doubt much ever made it across the pond, same as we rarely see the nice brakes from Europe outside of Brembo. Definitely repurposed calipers from probably a harley, but the rotors were made for GSXR wheels. The biggest problem is the complete lack of any part numbers on anything. The rotors are completely blank and the calipers only have USA hand stamped into each half.
Are there any other 330mm rotors that fit W wheels? I'm hoping to bring these rotors back, but if I can't, or when they wear out, stock sized rotors would require new adapters to be made.