El Gringo

Cheers Rob, Just got it back from the bike show in London, Practical Spurtsbikes borrowed if for their stand over the weekend (Excuse the shite in the background) I'm hoping that with some fresh fuel (and not the half and half fresh and premix i put in it the other day ) it should start and do what it's supposed to do now i've sealed the float bowl tee's and put the choke bar stopper on

Right then, ta dah! Nearly done, just needs fluids, carb balance and final bolting together

Quick update, should have the bodywork back this weekend, so in the meantime i figured a proper exhaust might help with the possibility of getting it MOT'd Also been through the carbs again and given them a good clean - looking much tidier now One thing that i did notice that might have quite a large effect on the transition - where the tees feed the float bowl vents from the pitot tube, the rubber is very soft and doesn't seal very well over the stubs. I've now lockwired these to try and seal them a bit better but it's not ideal. I did have a read back through the spondon bandit thread and found the mod using the outer feed points but i don't think there's enough sticking out to get a good fit on the 400 carbs (plus i can't get the bank of carbs apart to fit the cross pieces between the stubs) - might be something to look at in the future

I'll take you a pic later @Blubber- It's nothing fancy, a bent bit of 10mm wide steel flat stock, there was a "spare" casting on the end of the carbs so i tapped it to M6 for a bolt. Choke works the same but you have to manually put the plate over the end of the choke rod and do the bolt up - just need to remember to take a 5mm allen key everywhere with me It's only a temporary measure to see if that's part of the problem, if it helps i'll make something more permanent

All going according to plan so far Engine is back in, body work should be back at the weekend. Carbs need another clean and i think i'm going to go back to the 100 main jets - then it's a case of connecting everything back up I'm still a tad concerned about it not transitioning on to boost properly but i think it's just going to need a bit more testing - there are only a finite number of things it can be now I've added a take off to the plenum to feed the fuel pressure regulator, and i'm looking at making s series of restrictors for the pitot tube so we can try smaller bores to see if that helps I've also made a little plate to hold the choke bar closed to rule that out

indeed, I agree wholeheartedly! Unfortunately i've no idea which of the 16 previous owners it was. I think it's had a troubled/hard existence Still, onwards and upwards, i've got a spare motor now which is always a bonus and i've been doing some reading up on using FZR600 pistons which will give it a bit of a capacity bump so at some point it'll probably be getting a mk2 engine

It does explain where all the bits of swarf that were in the sump the first time i took it off came from! Fortunately, this second time round it's nice and swarf free As you say "engineer"

Aye up, still going on this, just awaiting some more bits back from powder coating Cast your minds back about 12-18 months to when i finally got it to run relatively correctly - i'm not sure if I ever mentioned it on here but during the process i tried running it without the turbo on and had the headers only loosely bolted up using the outside 2 bolts. It fired up a treat but was suddenly pissing oil out of the front of the engine, seemingly from the upper exhaust stud hole on cylinder 3. With a bolt in it it didn;t so much gush as weep a fair bit - i put this down to a ham fisted previous owner having cracked the head putting an over long bolt in Now i've got the engine on the bench i had a proper look - what i found was less than amusing At some point someone has snapped that particular exhaust bolt, then tried to drill it out.................................... Whats that...... It can't be can it? Bugger me it is! Drilled off centre, on the piss and all the fucking way through! This should demonstrate just how far off straight it's been drilled! So, rectified with a spot of Belzona for now Now just awaiting a decent clean and a coat of paint I've also spent a small fortune on some more Ti bling for various bits, cam cover bolts, sprocket nuts and a couple of other bits. Also bought a manual cam chain tensioner to be on the safe side as i've got no idea of the heritage of the existing one So, hopefully in the next couple of weeks if it warms up enough to paint, it'll be done and back in for the final build Then we've just got to hope it plays ball during testing

For a winter project this is going rather well, Motor is out for a coat of paint, and the covers will be off to the coaters after the festivities Chassis is all built back up ready for the engine to go back in

Ideally one big enough to do the full bank of carbs in one go but they're daft money You may be better off finding someone who can do it by post

Next time you have the carbs apart have a look down the emulsion tube where the needle runs, if it's massively ovated it'll let extra fuel through I believe it was a big issue on 38mm BSTs with dynojet needles wearing the front edge

Mine wouldn't run/rev without them in I went round and round in circles for ages, emulsion tubes made the biggest difference

Have you got the 4 little rubber bungs in the bottom of the main jet tube? Have you checked the emulsion tubes for ovaling? Sorry for linking to another forum but in my thread on Blandit Alley i went through a similar thng with my 400 http://forums.banditalley.net/suzuki-bandit-250-400/gsxr-k4-swingarm-swap/

Bits all dropped off to the powder coaters - should have it back by middle/end of next week. Might even be a roller again before Christmas!

Aye up everyone Bit of an update, decided that it was close enough to running properly to start pulling it apart for powdercoating/paint etc so i've got something to do over the winter So it's in bits and i'm just finishing up a bit of tidying up on the frame (and removing a snapped off drill bit from the side of the frame?! that came with the bike) I've also been finishing up my 1216

I haven't tried it since i put a new spring in the fuel pressure regulator and made a choke stop so it may be ok now Ignition timing is stock for now. Plugs are brand new NGKs The choke springs are really weak so i'm thinking it's blowing them open, maybe partially, as it starts to boost On the last test run with a big handful of clutch slip i did get it to rev past the stuttering point and pull pretty much up to the top end of the revs which is what makes me think it's a transition problem rather than ignition Just haven't got a lot of time to test it

Thanks boss, i think it should be okay, it's huge relative to the engine displacement, something like just under 4 litres if i remember correctly I really need to get my finger out and sort this once and for all, it was pretty close on the last test run so i think another trip to the dyno before Christmas migt be in order

On the 2nd picture, could be a link across to feed the +12 to each coil, rather than having 2 separate wires?

That's interesting, stripped the fpr, no crap in it and the diaphragm is fine, then replaced the clipped spring with a new full spring. Reassembled and put back on the bike, fired the pump up, that's odd, it's not showing any pressure? I was under the impression that the Malpassi's were 5-6psi standard, so i wound the adjuster in and it took a good 3-4 turns to get it to just under 3psi on the gauge - not running at present. Possibly more importantly, when I turned the pump off, the pressure remained on the gauge, which it didn't seem to do before. I wonder if where i drilled out the return barb to increase the return flow/ reduce the return restriction is what has caused the base pressure to drop below the 5-6 stock psi? In any case, i'll get it fired up asap and reset the pressure when it's running

I'll have a look and see when I can get out on it next. Going to strip the FPR later and got another idea to try too If the next run is relatively successful it might be worth considering another trip to the dyno

I might try and move the fuel pressure gauge to somewhere up the front then mount the go pro on the tank so i can watch the pressure and boost afterwards

Getting there slowly, completely forgot to take the Go Pro to film it! Mind you it would have been fairly anti-climactic if i'm honest

Good Lord! An Update! Progress, small but progress non the less. Finally managed to find a suitable testing spot, so armed with a 12mm spanner and small screwdriver we gave it a go I think it's still transition/fuel pressure related - the fuel pressure before definitely wasn't high enough so we wound it up to just under 3 psi with it running. It's made it very rich at the bottom end but i guessed this would be the case Gave it a run, second gear, and whilst it still stumbled at mid throttle crucially it eventually pulled through it and virtually revved out, and consequently scared the shit out of me. So surprised was it that it had kind of worked i almost forgot to brake before hitting the main road! (which was also not very good having not bedded the new pads in) I also forgot to look at the boost gauge to see what it was doing Few more runs, same result but getting worse for stumbling each time, interestingly it could be cleared by slipping the clutch through it However, the fuel gauge was now showing no pressure despite not being touched, so i wound it up a bit further and the pressure came back, then went again. I'm wondering if where i clipped the spring it's shifting inside the regulator causing it to fluctuate? Next step is to have the regulator back off and put the new spring in and see how low the pressure will go