Rijko
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Posts posted by Rijko
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Next up, ultrasonic cleaning.
All 4 came out great like this one.
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Ordered rebuild parts, should be there shortly.
Love the carb stand by the way ...
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A little motivating and both jets came out without any damage (to the carbs
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Succes !
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Carb time !
The Da Vinci guys tried to remove the jets .... buggered up 2 and gave up.
Fortunately
I got the other 2 out and measured up what i had to work with.
Enlarged the jet opening to approx halfway in the jet : this leaves some meat to tap a screwdriver in.
Put some WD40 in there, applied some heat, more WD40 and let it soak for a day.
Next, heated up the tower holding the jet until the WD40 started boiling and gently tapped the screwdriver in there.
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For the eagle-eyed amongst us : those are not ET wheels in the picture.
The seller's father (deceased years ago) owned the bike for decades but seller never knew it running.
I may have found the reason for that in the wiring loom btw
After decades the frame was rusted and a teacher of the Da Vinci College Leiden offered to restore the bike in his technical classes with his pupils. That project never flew - they powdercoated the frame and the project died.After some years he collected the bike in bits as in the pictures but the original wheels were not there : the wheels in the picture do not belong with this Martin. Guess another project died there in school ...
I found some very nice original GSX1100ET wheels (Thanks Jeroen !) so that's good.-
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18 hours ago, Safra said:
Strange that it would have ET forks with leading axles maybe someone kept the original forks
Martin sold "kits" in the day.
Cheapest kit contained mainly frame, rear "De Carbon" shock, bodywork and rearset.Optional kit contained Martin wheels, Brembo brakes and 42 mm Betor front fork with clipons and triple tree.
So to see an ET fork and standard brakes with an ET engine indicates only Kit 1 was bought,
and confirms originality / "as built" ..The ET triple tree wears the bearings that fit the Martin frame. (larger than the ET ones)
So another indication it was built with ET stuff.
Seller confirmed his father bought it from second owner and knew the first owner and told me
the bike was not changed since new.-
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2 hours ago, rodneya said:
But that is a really cool old bike and I would keep the engine you have in it
thanks, and agreed. 25HP extra is very nice to have but the standard GSX1100 still is an impressive engine i like a lot.
And it only has 13K on the clock so will get it running anyway.
i already bought new inner legs for the ET fork that came with it, working on polishing the lower legs now.
Plan is to first just assemble the bike, and ride it for a bit and see what is what before throwing (too much) money at it.
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20 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Or go oilcooled. More power, slightly younger and lighter.
oilcooled as in GSXR ?
Your sig leads me to think you have experience with that -
Hi folks,
i recently bought a Martin GSX1100 in parts.
With it, a GS110X engine which i believe is 1981.I am looking for more power and from what i can find, the 1135 is much better.
Welded crank, cheaper power and torque than tuning the existing GSX1100.
Most power and better gearbox from the 1985 and up EFF engine ?Can you tell me if this is a good option ?
Are engine dimensions and mount points the same ?
Do i need more than just the engine ... igniter, wiring loom, other parts ... or can i just hook up the engine to the GSX1100 wiring loom ?
I am new to the GSX so feel free to dump the knowledge on me
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4 hours ago, ral said:
My 1st early GS750 also had wire wheels with rear disk, I assume the front and rears wire wheels would be the same as fitted to early GS1000s, I paid £20 for a rear at Stafford last year
Hubs were the same afaik, early '78 GS1000 wire wheels had alloy rims. GS750 had chrome steel rims.
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Description
GS550 race bike.
Gs550 roller big end bottom half engine
Gs650 (673cc) top end ported and flowed
Kehnin Cr Smoothbore Racing Carbs 29mm (worth over £1000 on Eblag).
Frame is Strengthened for racing
Oil cooler fitted.
Micron fork brace
Fork seals changed along with the oil.
Koni racing rear shocks
Domino quick action throttle.
Raced in the Early Stock Series.
Bike has had new oil and filter 10w 40 semi synthetic
New ngk spark plugs
New brake pads all round and calipers rebuilt. New rear master cylinder fitted as old was shocking.
New clutch springs.
New Detent spring.
Exhaust wrapped.
Spare Engine is the original gs550 engine that matches the V5c plus a few boxes of spares.
Sticky Avon racing tyres fitted.
Bike was used at Snetterton in May, Mallory in July and Cadwell August 2022.
This is a quick bike for its age.
There is no starter motor so needs either a very strong pit crew or a set of starter rollers.
Could help with delivery if local or for diesel money.
Please no time wasters or tyre kickers. Please don't just ask if it's still available as I will not respond sorry.
More pics available.
May consider a swap
If collecting is from Sandy Bedfordshire.either way, £1,750 sounds like a pretty good price considering the way the bike is setup.
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Ad is from 15 days ago, did you buy it or are you selling it ?
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I have something like that on my GS1000. Check this pic, i do not have more detailed pics atm.
The disc is off a H**da MB5 and has 3 holes located correctly ; afaik (did not make this setup myself)
all that's needed is placing the old GS disc on top and drill the other 3 holes.
The bracket is a straight plate positioning the caliper over the disc by 2 spacers on either side on the axle.
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i know, those slabby carbs are expensive. Very.
As are the Mikuni 29 smoothbores that were/are
a very popular upgrade ...
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Wraith, there are 2 different GS1000 heads : 1 with small inlets for the VM slide carbs, and one with bigger inlets for the BS CV carbs.
I do not have personal experience myself with the different alternative carb sets but carb spacing wil probably be different.
Some carb sets you can change the location of the carbs without too much trouble but others require much work including linkage adjustments.I think the early slabby carbs fit on the old model head in combination with Kwak Z900 inlet rubbers.
I have not heard of bolt-on replacements for either model head - other than the expensive Keihin CR/Mikuni RS carb sets.
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From the picture you posted it looks like you have a super paintjob on yours.
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Brembo used to make a really good brake pad, now discontinued.
I like those best, never had other pads that good.
NOS original ones come second for me.
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20 hours ago, Poldark said:
The Dyna coils are likely more heat resistant than the stock ones. With old stock coils, best to use the correct resistance; no matter internal or external. Dyna makes the black 5 ohm coils for use with points, why not just use them or an external resistor as recommended?
No argument there buddy. Just offering experience.
20 hours ago, Poldark said:What's the advantage to running with over -heated coils?
Um, you don't expect an answer to a retorical question i hope
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6 hours ago, Poldark said:
Just remember to match the appropriate ignition coils to the breaker points; 4 or 5 ohms. Electronic ignition systems are normally 2 or 3 ohm. Running points with the lower resistance coils will work fine for a short while, then break down and leave you stranded; been there.
3 Ohm coils are fine to use with contact points.
The green 3 Ohm Dyna coils for instance have been in use for many years with points, replacing the higher resistance OEM coils.
Note : Dyna recommends a ballast resistor when using them with points and they do get warm.
But many people have used them without the resistor for many years (including me)
The 3 Ohm mini coils get real hot : those will fail especially when not cooled.
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exactly. I guess John his first statement is a bit misleading - it feels like he verified the correct parts based on the pictures.
Guess he was trying to be helpful ?
Must have been quite a job fitting that GS1000G tank on a chain frame Wraith. -
On 9/2/2021 at 12:05 AM, Bomber666 said:
Wrong.. It’s a ‘78.. See attached image.. who am I to question that..
Impressive looking document
* bullet nr. 1 in the John Carr document :
In 4 decades everything from wheels to tank and engine etc could have been changed. But if judging by pictures BigT is right - those parts are not 1978.
* bullet nr. 2 in the John Carr document :
I would be interested in what John Carr means by "the official Suzuki engine and frame number charts".
The only Suzuki charts i am aware of are in Suzuki service bulletins.
Check the attachments, these show the chassis cannot be a 1978 - same for the engine.
* bullet nr. 3 in the John Carr document :
Without better info on the resources used, i cannot really comment.
John does not mention correct parts : he only states the frame number is one that was manufactured in 1978 which is probably true.
The model is a 1979, manufacturing of those started in 1978.
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LOL autocorrect works funny on you G I X E R .... if i type "C o r r e c t G i x e r" without the spaces i get this after submit :
Correct say what now!?
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Correct
Agreed on the complexity and cost of replacing wiring (and handlebar switches, contact, R/R, all that has old wiring or connectors).
Too bad new looms are rare as hen's teeth.
So for most, the only option will be to repair/recondition the existing stuff best they can, or have it done.
BTW, on GSR is a member that buys, tests, and sells 2nd hand series SH-775 R/R quite cheap.
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oh .. that leads to the 'coil relay mod'.
Basically in the situation you measure low voltage on your coils, always due to bad connections, you can use a relais to work off that bad low-voltage connection. The relais taps fresh 12V off the battery and feeds it to the coils.
While some have reported no further issues, imho it's a bad approach : it's ignoring a wiring loom that has issues.
A quick, short-term-effective, but bad workaround for a bigger problem - all it does is allow the underlying issue to grow until some other component dies.
Measure voltage, resistance, and meticulously clean each connection in the wiring loom is the only way to solve this.
My opinion, don't shoot me guys
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Martin GSX1100
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by Rijko
It is great, would not want to do without it !
It is for sale here : https://eshop.econ-werkzeuge.de/Vergaserhalter-6676293
You can set the carb fuel level using the exact angle as on the bike, turn the carbs while working on them, it also has a leak container below.