Rijko
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Posts posted by Rijko
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anyone got a better wiring diagram ?
My old eyes can't make out the details on this picture ... -
Make it a lot of small puzzles ... starting with the TPS.
3rd TPS wire is ground.
That's the first 3 wires done ...
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What bike is it ?
The igniter you show takes a Throttle Positioning Sensor into account.
You have carbs with TPS ?
Hope engine, controls, TPS etc. are all 2005 gsxf750f ... mix 'n match does not always work. -
Can you post the whole wiring diagram ?
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3 minutes ago, imago said:
You've only got to have that moment where you're debating removing the carbs from between the airbox and hardened rubbers for a second/third time, or just setting fire to the bike once and you never want to go there again.
yep, i tried cheaping out in the past, but the lesson i learned was you're not saving a couple of tenners, you're buying 500 bucks of aggravation and another evening lost doing it twice.
YMMV ...-
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i don't know the specific ignitor you are using (looks to be the 6-wire one), but most are pretty simple.
12V and ground to power the thing, signal input from both pickups, and signal output to both coils. -
29 minutes ago, imago said:
Personally I just use genuine stuff from Robinsons or CMSNL. It's pricey doing it that way, but I don't want to be doing the same thing twice.
i feel exactly that way.
The annoyance of malfunctioning carbs i just spent a lot of time working on, having to buy other stuff and spending more time and money on them ... just not worth it.
I used to work for a company that taught "first time right" ... it's become my motto for these things.-
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I could not find them online, ended up visiting some motorcycle shops,
and lo and behold, number 3 had one.Heard talk of the old Z900 may be compatible but nothing definitive yet..
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I have rebuilt many carbs, and my experience is with aftermarket stuff it's a crap shoot.
Original stuff never gave me problems.
Replacing o-rings and gaskets usually is enough, unless parts are worn/damaged.
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Sounds like the connection is easily tested with warm engine.
Does it flicker below 1500 rpm when cruising or at stand still ?
Or when pulling hard from low revs.
Made me think about this remark in Cycle World :
(source : https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1980/4/1/suzuki-gs1100e)
QuoteUnlike previous GS models, the GS 1100 has forward-facing spouts on the sump oil pickup to ensure that oil pressure is maintained under hard braking.
But because the pickups are pointed forward, the oil pressure warning light comes on under very hard acceleration in lower gears, which means that the force of acceleration pushes the oil to the rear of the sump, away from the pickup.
Suzuki engineers may have settled on the forward-facing pickups because a rider is more likely to use the brakes hard in normal riding than to accelerate at full throttle in the lower gears.
The important thing is that despite the oil pressure warning light flickering under extreme acceleration, the engine isn’t harmed.
Roller-bearing crankshaft engines use relatively low oil pressure, and losing that pressure momentarily doesn’t result in bearing damage as it can with a plain bearing crankshaft.-
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5 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
I've got a polished sump on an 1100 engine and I'm not sure anyone else ever notices it other than me.
i would. Have done the same to several GS1000 sumps, valve breather covers and oil filter covers ... looks great.
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agreed. But you asked for dimensions ... not for the cheapest place to buy them.
The dimensions are right there, now you can go ahead and order them from somewhere cheaper, right ?-
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ha, cool you got it
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i do not like tapered easy-outs, you can't see what you're doing in that hole ; brass is soft ; if you drill out the hole you can then easily damage the thread in the carb body, etc.
You do have the perfect centered hole to drill it.
Drill out the pilot jet center to the thickness of the screwdriver as close as possible.
I drilled to just below the thread on the pilot jet.
Then repeatedly (3-4 times) spray WD40 into the remains and heat with a small hobby blowtorch until it boils.
After that, gently knock the flathead into the pilot jet, does not need much to get stuck which is what you want.
Heat cycles, tapping and WD40 should have weakened the crud.
Then you should be able to screw the pilot jet out.
Go easy, small millimeter turns, left and right.
You want to crush the crud and spread it across the thread, not accumulate and get stuck.
Have done this on multiple occasions, works every time.
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CMSNL lists a lot of those sizes.
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Nice bike !
I may buy that head after all then, that stuff gets rarer by the day.
And for a ported head with new valve guides and valves the price
is way less than the price of new valves, let alone the work on it -
What are you looking for ?
There's a head for sale in Germany with all new and gofast stuff, larger valves, cams with slotted wheels, oil supply modified, etc.
Ran only for 500 km ... 700 Euro + shipping, a steal !
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23 hours ago, Baz1954 said:
Discontinued and couldn't find any on the net.
https://www.Eblag.nl/itm/233658646065
Just bought one myself found on a Dutch site.
23 hours ago, Baz1954 said:Found OEM 'o' ring for it in Germany (again discontinued). It was still quite flexible although a little opaque compared to original.
SuzyTwo sells new o-rings for 2,50 : (readily found on Eb*y for 23+ Euro)
https://www.suzytwo.co.uk/ourshop/prod_7844304-O-RING-MASTER-CYLINDER-RESERVOIR-GT750-GT550-GT380-GT500-GT250-GT200-GT185-GT125-PATTERN.html -
Are you sure the wheel is bent ?
usually if the rim is bent, the discs don't rub.
Maybe the issue is in your brake calipers (piston stuck), or have a bent brake disc ?
Bent disc is way more common, especially after braking hard and keeping the brakes engaged at standstill while hot ... -
Others here have way more experience with the GS110X engine, but these engines suffer from twisted cranks when souped up.
So as far as i understand if upping power, welding the crank is the first thing to do.
Suzuki welded the crankpins from 1983 on afaik.
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9 hours ago, gsx said:
you will need to pop the cams out to do this
That is true if it has an aftermarket shim under bucket setup, but a standard GS1000 has shims that can be removed without removing the cams.
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they run with zero clearance or less but then you have a high probability of burned valves.
Good practice is to see if you can rotate the bucket before changing shims if you can't get a feeler in there,
so you know if they are really without clearance.
I would do at least a compression check but even better a leakdown test in this case.
Best thing is ofcourse to remove the head and inspect and grind the valves. -
If anyone is interested in Ed Ness his o-ring kits, check this thread :
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that o-ring is for the choke assembly if i'm correct.
Also, i believe the Keyster kit does not contain the tiny pilot screw o-ring and drain o-ring.
And if you upgraded the fuel tee and fuel vent tubes, it does not have the o-rings for those.
I used to buy my o-ring sets from Cycle Orings Robert Barr and will order the next kits from Ed Ness who took over.
Those kits contain all these o-rings.
M unit blue
in Oil Cooled
Posted
well now that's cool advice, knowledge i did not have, and it simplifies things ...