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Rijko

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Posts posted by Rijko

  1. 34 minutes ago, Dorkburger said:

    Cycle o rings .com is no more.

     

    I think Nessim over at GS Resourses is carrying it on, but not necessary advertising. 

     

    yep took over from Robert Barr

  2. The vacuum operated ones are sometimes left on prime, and will leak when old.
    Any manuel one like a Pingel left on, can be a problem.
    Both may result in a puddle on the floor and/or fuel in the engine oil.

    An ideal combo with either i think, is to mount an electronic fuel valve.
    Switches on when contact is on, switches off when contact is off.
    Ideal for a goldfish memory like mine xD

    • Like 1
  3. On 7/30/2023 at 4:09 PM, johnr said:

    look for the back wheel from a 400 katana. theyre the same snowflake pattern on the spokes, but are much wider than stock, still 17 inch but tubeless,  lighterthan stock and absolutely identical in style to stock. now you may need to mess with bearings spacers etc, but once its done, youll never tell that its not stock aside from the wider tyre.

    interesting !
    Which Katana 400 is that, the old GSX400F or the later GSX400S ?

     

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, Hilko said:

    I forgot about the half moon rubbers. Can’t they be reused with a bit too f silicon if they haven’t totally hardened? 

    For the K@w@ Z900 they have aluminium aftermarket ones, i have never seen them for Suzuki.

    Had some made for my GS1000 years ago, with a small lip on the inside to prevent them being pushed out.
    Alas, the guy that made them stopped his business ..

    • Like 1
  5. I recently read a nice explanation of the culprit in trusting a continuity test.

    Say you have a wire with all strands but 1 broken.

    A continuity test would be succesful, but no way that 1 strand would be
    able to carry enough amps to power something big.

    Only a load test would show the wire to be the problem.

    You just did a ok continuity test but the load test failed ...

    • Like 4
  6. 5 hours ago, Joseph said:

    given these following facts regarding a right handlebar light switch :

    • 12 V feed to input wire is present

    • switch continuity between the 12V input and output wires is tested ok when you switch the switch on

    yet

    no power through the output wire when the switch is put on ?

    Occam's razor ..

    if fact 1 (12V input is present) is correct

    and fact 3 (no output) is correct ...

    fact nr. 2 should be questioned.


    +1 on what Tony said xD

  7. TPS relates to ignition advance.
    I noticed a difference on several bikes that would not idle nicely before adjustment.
    Better idling and a bit smoother acceleration without hesitation.

    Some may not notice it especially on a Bandit or XJR because of the massive torque they have at low rpm.
    Many use ignition advancers that disguise a badly set TPS so will not notice it.
     

  8. 15 hours ago, MikeyVeitch said:

     Some days I press the button and it starts. Some days I have to bump start it. Some days that won’t even work.  

    This issue needs to be sorted : you may solve your current issue doing so ..

    That's not a wise crack - the GS family is known to have bad connections.
    Low voltage due to bad connections does impact power supply to igniter and coils.
    The issue is really common ... you should really check your connections.

    If the starter relais and starter engine do not engage when pressing the button, you may have dirt or corrosion
    inside the RH handlebar switch.
    12V to igniter and coils also come from that switch.
     

  9. 16 hours ago, cnap504 said:

    You’ve got a nice project there, congrats on the find.  To me the GSX1100 engines look better than the 1150’s especially in custom frames.  The 1100’s make good power but if you’re thinking you’d like more they respond well to a cam upgrade, displacement increase, and a bit more compression.  A high velocity free flowing exhaust with a set of performance carbs will certainly complement the engine mods

    thanks. I would like to have more power, but it looks like that drags one into expensive territory ....
    Starting with the non-welded crank that does not seem to be able to handle much more than standard.
    Straight gears on the crank and clutch basket, bigger valves, flowed head, expensive carbs, etc.
    Too bad, if crank revision/welding was not so expensive i would probably be able to get a fresh flowed head with new valve guides and large valves.

    Found a super nice overview of GSX engine specifications, weaknesses and differences here : https://suzuki-classic.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5192&p=29371#p29367

    I have found slotted cam gears : cam timing seems to be the main performance difference between 100 HP GS110X and 110 HP Katana GS110X engines. Pretty cheap upgrade.
    The Martin 4-1 exhaust seems to be pretty free flowing with a quite big collector diameter.

  10. I have had something like that long ago.
    In that case, the float bowl gasket was too wide, and when mounting the float bowls the gasket would press the float in the highest position and keep it there, so all 4 float needles were shut.

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