Rijko
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Posts posted by Rijko
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2 hours ago, Dezza said:
Replica tank in alloy?
I think that's the way to go.
Mate had one made by TheTankShop in Scotland IIRC.
Price was nice, took half a year though.
Was delivered polished like chrome, no dents or scratches or imperfections.
Best alloy tank we have ever seen, perfect replica, perfect welds, so beautiful he did not paint it.
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i would not risk it, coating does not hold well on polyester tanks that had gas in them for years.
Talked to my painters over the years, they warn their customers about that.
I ended up having mine reproduced using modern material that withstands modern gas.
Not too expensive, too.
Ofcourse after i done that i found a NOS tank, lined and painted ... the guy spent all that money only to find out he had the Kawa tank with petcock positions different to the H*nda and had it just sitting there
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How did you spray starting fluid into the non firing cylinder ?
These VM carbs do not like to run without airbox much and you sayin' hand against the carb makes me ask.
What happens if you start the bike and spray some fluid into the nr. 3 vacuum hose with the airbox on ?
Does applying the choke on and off and giving it a bit of throttle make any difference ?
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Since we're kinda guessing and you have already taken off the head, reground valves etc : assuming you set valve play and rechecked compression ....
Did you replace the o-rings on the carb-to-cylinder boots ?
Maybe test the seal on number 3 by spraying brake cleaner or starter fluid on the boot.
Any change in rpm, up or down, indicates a leak.
Are the 4 carb sync bolts in the inlet manifolds present ?
Got a strobe light ?
Neat use for that thing is connect it to the problem cylinder and just look at the flickering light, no need to point it at your timing marks.
Multiple issues like a broken spark plug, cap, bad connection to the cap, etc show up clearly.Either by not flickering at all, or clearly irregularly.
Stuff i would not have noticed because i saw a nice spark were clearly visible this way.
Got a 'known good' situation where the bike ran on all 4 ?
Maybe with the points setup ?
Got good 12V at the ignition and coils ? -
Cool build !
Is that an original (polyester) racetank ? (vs wider "coffin" metal gas tank and dummy tank on top)
That old polyester stuff does not handle the modern day gas very well ... may want to consider that before spending a lot of money on painting. -
You did not mention replacing the base gasket and o-rings.
These will often develop a leak when disturbed by taking off the head. -
The fuel tap vacuum hose is on nr. 3, is it connected to the petcock ?
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According to the document, there are at least 3 types of cams : 100/111/125 HP, the D cams being the faster ones.
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This is a super study into the cams, start at p29.
Sorry, it's in German.
https://up.picr.de/36612796ge.pdf -
14 hours ago, TonyGee said:
grow up
You are right Tony, so here goes.
first, i try to follow if you don't have something positive to contribute - don't.
I broke that, and said several things i should not have, in a way i should not have.
I am sorry about that, and apologize for that.
I was tired and went too far, something rubbed me the wrong way.
Ofcourse, things like petrol resistant kits ARE made to help with petrol leaks.
Applied properly, it's a good thing.
My keyboard warriorism is something i never do, uncharacteristic for me.
I am sorry for that, it really is the first time i trolled a thread like that.
Sorry to OP also.
And you guys went easier on me for that than i deserve ... thanks.
For the first time my contributions lead to a thread i'd rather see deleted because of them.
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Some 8 years ago i read about someone with a restored GS1000 that caught fire.
I called them on behalf of the club i was a member of to offer help.
They smeared the petcock.
It started leaking, and there probably also was a shortcircuit.
It's in Dutch, but the pictures say enough.
Please don't F around with botched solutions and find out, especially with gas ...
https://gs-ownersclub.tk/kunena/7-klets-hoek/4601-suzuki-gs1000g-uitgebrand.html#7049 -
43 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
I would use some soap to stop a small fuel leak. Works very well.
What list does this place me on?
the list of people i hope not to read about in the news ...
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Can't teach someone who's cup is already full, mr. Miyagi said.
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2 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
I don't care what list you place me in !!!!!! putting a bit of sealant on any thread thats holding a gas or liquid isn't a bad thing. if it improves the chances of stopping a leak then all good, especially petrol over a hot engine.
that's exactly what i mean.
Sealant is NOT the proper solution to stop a gas leak.
Now i know for sure what list to place your advice on
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4 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
to me that him saying he can see the fuel leaking from them !!!! but if you wan't to split hairs
uhhmm ... all fuel leaks down and he comes here asking for advice.
Does not sound like he can diagnose it himself.
Now every forum gives advice, but the readiness to offer smearing kit or use PFTE tape boggles my mind.
Plenty of knowledge here, but if you would rather call proper troubleshooting splitting hairs ...
and offering sealing kit ..
does not immediately place you in my list of proper mechanics giving sound advice-
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
I think Joseph already said its leaking form the screws !!!!!!
No, he said "looks like".
Leaves all options open ... -
i'd look for the cause before resorting to tricks.
Just a few options, just narrow it down.
Tank is leaking, seal between tank and tap, tap itself, or the washers.Mate had new washers leaking, turned out the mating surface for the washers was damaged.
Filed them surfaces on the tap flat, solved.-
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29 minutes ago, imago said:
Yes, but it seems not all 24 bolt have them. AFAIK the change to 24 bolt covers came first to cure the oil leak issues then the welded cranks fed in.
right, that *may* be good news for me, i have a spare engine with 24 bolt head but never thought it could have a welded crank.
Will check that this weekend, fingers crossed
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1 hour ago, imago said:
The black engine, welded crank and extra cam cover bolts came in with the EX (improved design from the Kat). But, some of the EX had the ET engine, some had silver engines with welded cranks and extra cam cover bolts and some with the black engine.
Suzuki did a rolling introduction rather than a hard cut off as like a lot of manufacturers they used up what they had before going to the new stuff.
i did not know that, thought the crank welding started in '83.
So do i understand correctly - the silver EX engine with 24 bolt cam covers also had a welded crank ? -
dry ice blasting is less abrasive if you are going for bare alloy.
Not cheaper than vapour blasting though.
Try several paint strippers, i have 4 and found what works on 1 part may
not work well on another part.
Coat it with paint stripper and air seal it in a bag for a day often works. -
39 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
that's for the 1980 models with square masters .. does not fit a 1978/1979 ..
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5 minutes ago, jb said:
My gs1000 has k&n air filters and a Vance & hines exhaust but I still found increasing the pilot jets just made it too rich…..that said, I’m in the uk and the climate can make tuning different, but I’d be looking at fine tuning the carb’s again before swapping out the jets
same for me, K&N and Yoshi pipe, running standard pilot jets.
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6 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
If you can, use an 1127 CDI, or even a bandit one. That 750F CDI will have a higher red line that's not good for the 1127 cranks. No reason to keep the TPS either. The later Fs and bandits had so much extra crap on them for emissions, best to ditch all that crap for the sake of simplicity.
With an older CDI, you can start with a base diagram more like this one that posted previously.
well now that's cool advice, knowledge i did not have, and it simplifies things ...
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anyone got a better wiring diagram ?
My old eyes can't make out the details on this picture ...
Rickman race bike
in OSS Racers
Posted
Have experience with that ? I would be very interested.
I have the same issue with a Moto Martin.
These tanks are small to begin with, so a tank in a tank would reduce fuel capacity even further.
Fortunately Martin sells the tankseats still, in modern material that can handle modern fuel.
Think i'll go that way.
But if you know of fuel blatters or something else ... lemme know please.