I just got the shaft!

[brooksy]

Just brought home a GS 1000 G and I have a burning question.  Is there an option for putting a slightly wider tire (tyre?) on the back?  I vaguely remember a post (by Wraith I think) that stated that he had once put a 4.5" rear rim off a 1991 GSX1100G on his old GS/G.  He said it was tight, and some disassembly was required, but doable.  Bike needs new shoes anyway, so I was wondering if this was an option?

Edit: I found the thread I was referring to. 

http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/6803-my-gs1000g-project/

I guess my question now is whether  the vx 3.5" wheel will fit, or the GS1100G 4.5" wheel, or both/either.  Either one will do what I want.  Just need to know which one will mount up to the stock 1000 G hub.  Thanks.  Still learning how to use all the site features.

Edited June 25, 2018 by brooksy
New info

[johnr]

wraith also did a s/s swingarm conversion using the back end of a shafty hodna.

 

[brooksy]

8 hours ago, johnr said:

wraith also did a s/s swingarm conversion using the back end of a shafty hodna.

 

Thanks for the reply.  Yeah, I saw that.  He put some pics up last fall, I think.  Used the rear from something called a Revere?  Looks like a shaft drive version of the Hoon-da Hawk GT 650 that we got over here for a few years.  The shafties were never sold here.  I think he used either a VX or GSX/G rear in an earlier version of that bike.  I think he has had it for 100 years, or something, and has been constantly reinventing it.  Very cool.  I'm just looking for clarification on what actually fits before hitting the "Buy It Now" button on EBag.

Edited June 26, 2018 by brooksy
Gurls blouse

[wraith]

The VX800 fits, helps to take off the rear drive hub to put the wheel in, as it's a bit tite (but I had a 160 tyre on it  should of been a 150) I also used the xv800 rear caliper, wheel spacer and hanger.

The gsx1100g will fit but with much more missing about.

[wraith]

Ps, if you use the gs850 rear driver hub on the 1000 it gives you a bit more bottom end exl  and gs750 cams will make it rev quicker , b12 carb rubbers will fit onto the 1000 cv head and you can then put b12/gsxr carbs on 

And its been 101 years I've had my gs g  keep saying in going to sell it to found a new project but always find away/reason not to sell 

[brooksy]

Thanks wraith.  I was hoping you'd chime in.  Keep the bike.  Bit of a legend, that one. 

Ok,... off to Eblag!

[brooksy]

Parts on order!  Went with the VX 800 stuff.  I'll let ya know how it all turns out.

[wraith]

Have got a hard copy pic of when I first did the first mods to it, if I can figger out how to put it up I will 

[brooksy]

That would be awesome!  Thanks.

For an idea, this is a pic taken with my smartphone of a hard copy pic of me back in the 90's  heading for home in the cold Canadian spring weather.

 

[wraith]

That's a good idea, as found the pic 

[wraith]

Here you go

This is with the vx800 rear wheel with a 160 tyre.

[brooksy]

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics, wraith.  Wow, your bike has changed a lot over the years.  It looked good.  Kinda like that Katana tank on there.  Very different.  Can't wait to get my parts.  Waiting on some gaskets as well.  Bike was pouring oil outta the half-moon seals and the cover gasket disintegrated when I took the cover off.  Oh well,... at least I got a chance to check the valvetrain over and re-shim some slightly tight valves while I was waiting.  Wired in another Reg/Rec that I had in my "everything drawer" so now bike is charging.   Had the old bruiser fired up before I yanked the cover and it ran smooth, with no smoke from the exhaust.  Progress!

Edited June 29, 2018 by brooksy

[wraith]

Hope your parts come in soon for you 

Cheers for the complement on my bike  that was its first build using a gsx750es tank, gsx1100efe front end and a vx800 rear wheel, then I went to town on it (pics on other computer but bet you've seen it ) put the ntv650 single side swing arm in it, gs650 kat tank one off rear end and a b6 front end with a very tuned motor but because of the tank every body though it was the 650  good in one way 

Its now back to standard ish

Was going to put the 250 tyre think it was a 8" rim on it off a modern Suzuki custom but decided it was to much hassle to make a new swing arm and shaft for it  

I'm thinking of putting the gs550/750 tail piece and light on it (there a bit smaller) and see how many people call it a 550 

So what's your plans ?

Edited June 29, 2018 by wraith
Add a bit

[brooksy]

"Plan" is a pretty flexible concept in my world.  The bike came home for the seat, tank and bodywork parts, but started and ran, so now it's another project.  Sound familiar?  Hate the skinny wheels (why do they weigh 1000lbs apiece??), so that is the first mod.  Need to settle on a front end.  Not many of the longer conventional front ends available over here right now (early GSXR, Bandit,…).  Might have to go with something inverted, which usually brings with it ground clearance issues.  Not sure about that yet.  Not going into the motor this year.  Funds are tight and I really just need a reliable-ish runner for this summer/fall.  Just an "everyday" kind of bike.  My wife  just started riding again last year, and we are planning on doing some family outings with the kiddo on the Suzukis (much better than a mini-van).  Also, been riding bikes off-road with my buddies for the last 10 years or so, but what comes around, goes around, and we have all picked up old street bikes again this summer.  We are having a time wrenching on our old junk.  The race is on to see who turns the first wheel!  Keep the pics and ideas coming.  Selling my truck next week, so..... more parts!

[wraith]

7 hours ago, brooksy said:

"Plan" is a pretty flexible concept in my world.  The bike came home for the seat, tank and bodywork parts, but started and ran, so now it's another project.  Sound familiar?  Hate the skinny wheels (why do they weigh 1000lbs apiece??), so that is the first mod.  Need to settle on a front end.  Not many of the longer conventional front ends available over here right now (early GSXR, Bandit,…).  Might have to go with something inverted, which usually brings with it ground clearance issues.  Not sure about that yet.  

Yes, dose sound familiar 

As to your front end, how about a gsx1100g, good long forks and the wheel looks simular to the VX800 rear.

[brooksy]

I will look into that.  Never thought of Bandit 6 front end as well.  Quite a few of those around.   Rear wheel parts are in.  Just waiting for gaskets to arrive.  Then, maybe pipe shopping.  Not much to choose from over here.  Vance and Hines or Delkevic.  That's about it.

[wraith]

B6 is a bit soft, but put some gsx600f springs in, on the b6 front end. I had and that helped  you can also put a rf600 front wheel strate in the b6 front end and that will give you the 120 tyre (same discs and calipers and I think the mk2 b6 has the wider rim). You do have to swop bottom yoke spindle on the b6 and b12 as they are much longer than the GS ones, or have it turned down, you may need to on the gsx1100g ? Someone could tell you that if you ask  

All I did on my bike was make up a 20mm ( I think) spacer that went between the top yoke and bearing nut.

I've got a Delkevic zorst on my gs1000g at the moment and I'm very happy with it, not a high performance zorst like a V&H is but for the money they are good.

 

Edited July 2, 2018 by wraith

[wraith]

PS looking foreword to seeing some pics 

[brooksy]

On ‎7‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 2:21 PM, wraith said:

PS looking foreword to seeing some pics 

Thanks for the into, wraith.  You've been a great help.  I found a good price on  a V&H, so I may pull the trigger, if I can extricate myself from my latest mess.

I'm sure this isn't the type of picture you wanted to see.  This is the opposite of a progress pic.  Decided to swap out the rotted out stock exhaust and discovered two broken manifold bolts.  Snapped off at or below the level of the head, so nothing to grab onto.  Rusted up pretty good on the break, so likely been that way awhile.  Hmmm..... These things are the stuff of nightmares!  Looking into options right now.  I will get back to y'all soon,... I hope,... If I don't shoot myself.

[Sten]

Regarding options Brooksy, there's some good YT vids that might help you out. Intense heat is probably your best bet (1st link), there are other, more "creative" methods though (2nd link)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUlJ5f2-FcQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM

I'm all for trying to save original threads if at all poss' but sometimes, a threaded insert (helicoil e.t.c) is the only way to go.

Edited July 5, 2018 by Sten

[wraith]

Have you got/are you a good welder? If not do you know one?

I've before now welded a 10mm but in top of the bust stud (as you say manifold bolt) it puts heat into the area and you can then remove the stud, you may need to re-weld a bit on 2-3 times if the stud is very f#cked 

[brooksy]

Ha Ha!  I was watching that Deboss vid (vid #1) just before I wrote that  post to you last night!  Great minds, bud.  I built up the one broke down the deepest and can now get something on it (like a jumper cable ).

Gonna try some crazy shit tonight to get those suckers out.  Stay tuned!

[brooksy]

Well,... a week later, and this is what we have:  

The DeBoss method with the battery cables actually worked on bolt #1!  Me and a bud tried it a couple of times until we got it right.  Basically, if the smoke is not rolling off of your cables and the paint on them is not on fire, you haven't left them on long enough.  Once we did leave them on long enough, we noticed slight wigglage in the bolt.  Kept working it back and forth, and 20 minutes later,... success!  (see pics)

Bolt #2.  Nope.  Heated the shit outta it several times.  Welded on it several times.  Good welds that were breaking a thread or two off the bolt when they let go.  I'm starting to think that bolt number two might be a too-long bolt that bottomed out, stretched the threads, and then snapped off.  So, not just corrosion, but jammed threads as well.  It aint budging.  Been at it for days now.  If I want to drill it out (I don't!) I will have to remove the motor or at least unbolt everything to shift it sideways enough to get the nose of a drill in there as the frame is in the way.  No fun.  If I could figure out a way to use AVE's Alum method, that would be awesome.  As an added bonus, I went away on an off-road ride to Maine last weekend and the fuel pump in my Husky packed it in.  So now I am down to zero bikes that run.  Nowhere to go but up.

[Oddball]

Try getting a drill bushing for a 4mm drill bit, weld it to a plate that you can bolt to the other hole. This will allow you to drill into the center of the broken bolt with a left turning drill. Usually when you drill it out it will come loose. Remember, a reverse bit a little smaller than the hole. If possible start the hole with a center bit.

[brooksy]

It's out!  Been back to work all week, so no time to work on the bikes, but lots of time to stew and fret.  Decided today that tonight was the night.  Watched about 30 youtube vids on extracting bolts with the welder.  Then went to shop and removed everything that was in the way of me giving it my best shot.  Pulled front end and fired up the Lincoln 180.  With the cylinder fins on these engines, it is hard to clamp vise-grips or channel locks on and rotate cleanly without hitting the fins.  I figured that the side loads that my weird angles were putting on the welded up studs might be contributing to the shearing.  So I gathered up all the 13mm headed nuts I could find, and set about putting something on the end of the stud that I could get straight on to with a socket.  I had to build the bolt out with weld first, as it was now recessed into the hole a couple of mm.  Then welded the nut on and back and forth in about 5 degree increments with the socket for about 20 minutes, and finally: