Ams 500 boost controller

[Jdeac]

Hi all. Anyone used or have knowledge of using an ams 500 boost controller.

My setup seems to be set to 15psi stage 1 then stage 2 20psi with a ramp rate of 60 psi per second.

It's wired for 2 step

Input channels 1 and 2 are wired into the neutral switch.

So I was told it makes full boost in 4th gear.

So How does it know when it's in 4th?? And is there any way to make/switch that to come on full boost in 3rd. 

This is on a sprint/drag bike (pyro)

And I'm running 1/4 mile and 8th.

Curious if it can be done. Or is changing gearing the best way forward. If it ain't broke don't fix it???

Edited May 3, 2022 by Jdeac

[Gixer1460]

I trust you've read the manual? - https://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/570456/precision-turbo-and-engine-nlr-ams-500-boost-controller.html

Just on a brief glance it looks a damn sight more complicated than the AMS1000 i've got - but I haven't used mine for years so probably forgotten how anyway LOL!

[Jdeac]

@Gixer1460yes ive downloaded it. It baffles me lol. The 1000 looks loads easyier to use. Just missed a 1000 on that site. Sold for 150. Bloody phone froze

Electrics are not my thing

Looks like all inputs are activated from a ground though. Launch/2step and so on. Just don't get how it goes full boost in 4th. 

It definitely pulls alot harder in 4th when on the quarter.

 

Edited May 3, 2022 by Jdeac

[mikeyd]

The AMS 500's  iv'e seen look just like the AMS 1000 but with less features, so I'm not sure about that box. But the way they all know what gear it's in is there has to be a wire going to the air shifter/horn button - every time you shift, it counts the change. On newer bikes, they can wire it into the gps also.

[mikeyd]

OK, went into Nlr website - so that is a V1 box with just 2 stages of boost.Read the directions and understand your question a little better now. Inputs 1 &2 need a constant 12+ or -  signal to be active ( I think).  So the only thing I can think of is they just wired it into the clutch switch and are using dual mode, and then bringing in stage 2 with a slower ramp rate. So when you release the clutch on launch, it starts both inputs (starting with stage one) and then 2nd stage just comes in later on the ramp but both stages are activated at the same time. Of course I could be totally wrong and have no idea why it would be wired into the neutral switch unless they are using something in the wiring harness like the kickstand safety switch as a cheap form of ignition kill and this is giving the AMS its signal?

[Jdeac]

@mikeydit's has dyna 2000 also. Dyna limiter box. There is an air shifter on the bike also. Input 1 and 2 definitely go to the neutral switch. It's also wired for 2step/launch of the clutch switch. I have this disconnected at race meets. Bit have used it on some land for practise.

I'm think my best option is to leave it as is. And just work out a new gear ratio for the 8th mile. Or turn up stage 1 boost level a couple of psi. ( I worry about doing this though)

[Jdeac]

It's hard to see what wires are going where. And I don't want to pull it apart.

[Jdeac]

Or could it be that it's ramping up in every gear already. And I'm just not used to it. My First turbo bike!! And I'm just feeling the extra pull in forth.

I guess a dyno would tell me the answer. Just concerned about this as it has no oil cooler.

Was told though. That it makes full power from 4th

Edited May 6, 2022 by Jdeac

[Gixer1460]

Is the neutral switch 'just' a neutral switch? Not beyond the realms of possibility that a GSX type switch has been fitted that provides a separate ground via separate wires for each gear - that makes a pretty sensible solution given the box limitations?

[Jdeac]

[Gixer1460]

We have a winner! That's how different boost available - oldskool, but it works!

[Jdeac]

@Gixer1460care to explain.

Or at a guess. 1st selected before the line. Each pickup for 2nd to 5th

Edited May 6, 2022 by Jdeac

[Gixer1460]

28 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

@Gixer1460care to explain.

Or at a guess. 1st selected before the line. Each pickup for 2nd to 5th

The ET variants i've seen have 5No brass dots + another, which is for neutral (usually between two equally spaced 'normal dots') Blandits have a similar arrangement but only 3No pins - 1st / neutral / 2nd. - this is to activate retard for noise tests! Busa ones are again similar but have 6+1 dots (6 gears obvs) but is a three wire system - 5v in / Ground / and gear volts out. This allows the Busa ECU to different gear based shit that most mortals don't understand. Your one seems to be missing some dots / contacts - maybe why it switches in 4th? I was working on using something similar in my turbo GSXR but wired like a Busa one so it would talk happily to my AMS1000 to allow different boost ramps / targets for every gear - good idea for a road bike, me thought!

Yours doesn't seem to have a lot of wires so i'd suggest using a multimeter to see what is connected to what - a) to get full understanding and b) how to change it  . . . . if you ever want to ? 

[Jdeac]

@Gixer1460OK. I get what you saying sort of. Electrics are a head ache to me. So would not even know where to begin.

But from what your saying there maybe a way to switch some thing to bring full boost into third. 

[Jdeac]

@Gixer1460Save me taking it apart again.

So this b12 switch. Small dot neutral. Next dot first. Next second.

On the other switch in the bike. Neutral 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th.

Don't want to complicate things what happens when 5th is engaged.

[Jdeac]

4 wires into the switch that is in the bike

[Jdeac]

Connector from the switch.

Single orange- purple input 1 on controller

Brown,blue,pink- brown/yellow input 2 on controller

[Jdeac]

Would this not suggest 2nd 3rd and 4th are on stage 2.

[Gixer1460]

16 hours ago, Jdeac said:

@Gixer1460Save me taking it apart again.

So this b12 switch. Small dot neutral. Next dot first. Next second.

On the other switch in the bike. Neutral 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th.

Don't want to complicate things what happens when 5th is engaged.

No - think about it . . . . if the small dot is neutral, the shifter pawl goes past this to the blank bit for 1st gear ie. nothing needs to happen in first. Then changing up you pass through neutral, get 2nd then 3rd. Changes after this to 4th and 5th have no electrical outputs as nothing is required so there are no dots / contacts. I would guess that in the std suzuki ignition, when it sees that it is in 2nd it applies a bit of retard (to quieten the engine for noise tests) then when 3rd is selected it knows 'full power' settings can be re-established. Trying to diagnose electrical wiring and set-ups is difficult when they are not in front of you - so I can't speculate on what or what not to do, or what happens when wire A is connected to wire B etc. Sorry!

[Jdeac]

@Gixer1460understood cheers