New clutch plates, still slipping

[Fenty]

Hi folks, After a few weeks of Doris' clutch starting to slip on 4th and 5th, I bit the bullet and installed new (OEM suzuki) friction plates last weekend. I reinstalled the steels as they looked OK and changed the oil to fresh 10-40w semi synth as usual.

Well bugger me if the clutch slip isn't as bad if not even worse. I managed to get it slipping in 3rd last night as well.

Doris is a fat ole mare so she has a heavier Barnett spring in the clutch already.

I was wondering is there a special way the plates need to be installed, a mark on the plates that needs to be lined up for example? I installed the last plates myself a couple of years ago and had no issues.

How many sets of friction plates would I need to go through before the steel plates start to give up the ghost?

TIA...

[Fenty]

The #7 friction plate was installed first as per the manual.

I wasn't aware that there were different thickness of steel plates as I've never changed them. I'll have to check those again and I'll do the plate on glass check to see that they're not warped. If they are ok, is there a specific order they need to go back in?

If I'm buying new steel plates, is there any recommendation for the brand or do I just stick with OEM like the friction plates?

[Swiss Toni]

Before testing steels individually, pile them up and look for daylight. If fubarred, go for the OEM. 

[Fenty]

13 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Before testing steels individually, pile them up and look for daylight. If fubarred, go for the OEM. 

Thanks Toni. I used EBC frictions before and they were total shite so I always use OEM friction plates, but wasn't sure if the general opinion was the same for the steels. Good tip on checking for warpage!

 

[Swiss Toni]

It’s just a bit quicker than doing them separately. If they’re warped, they usually show blueing too. 

[manden]

How did it work out for you?