Fjbj40
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Posts posted by Fjbj40
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/4302/control-unit-elimination
one I did earlier, with help from @arnout
Yup, I did the same on my ESD as that link said to do, fixed several problems with that silly warning set-up
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You can fit a 180 in the stock 83 swingarm.
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On my 1100esd I disabled it, put in emulators and straight rate springs and holy shit, it handles amazing. Absolutely no mush and it is so confidence inspiring I find myself pushing it harder and harder every time I drive it!
Pitch the anti-dive shit in the bin!
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16 minutes ago, busa1300 said:
SaltyMonk upgrade from GSR?
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I am playing with this idea, what you guys think?
KN pod with the Suzuki airbox rubber velocity stack.
gonna give it a run and see if it makes an improvement
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54 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Yep, but if you search for GS1000S parts on Eblag you get a lot coming up for the Kat, the Z gets dropped. By the same token, the GS1000S should be either SN or ST.
Yup, you are correct
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20 hours ago, gs7_11 said:
No.
The Americans refer to the GSX models as GS. For some reason they never got the X. So they call the GSX1100 the GS1100.
To further confuse things there was an 8 valve GS1100 in the US. Don't think we got that.
Also, some versions of the Katana were 1000cc. The 1000cc Kat is referred to as the GS1000S in the US!
The NA market 1000 Kat is a GS1000SZ, the 1000S was the Cooley replica. The SZ was a one year production to qualify the bike for a racing series AFAIK
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A 4.5" would easily fit. I run a Bandit 5.5 in my 1000 with the 1100 swinger. I run a 530 chain with a 5/8" offset front sprocket. I trimmed about .050-.080" (from memory) off the outside of the Cush drive (gs1000) to move rear sprocket in. Chain has about 2-3mm clearance from frame.
Nothing will ever be a bolt in when u r doing these type of mods. All my rear spacers were custom. I run a 170 tire.
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Try here http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/#
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Well no luck so far. The MM oil has slowly ran between the rings and cylinder walls. So I am thinking something in the gearbox is stuck? Guess I will pull the clutch cover off and have a look next.
Unless it's the crank that is stuck, but I doubt it as there was so much oil/fuel in the case and no water.
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Have a read through this one, may help https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?73723-Carb-OEM-specs-as-per-factory-manuals
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Short found! The screw holding the coil power tang backed out and shorted against the mounting stud. Fixed with lock washers and added best shrink to stud to prevent a possible repeat.
I am getting tired of working on this one so I took the hooligan 1000 out for a blast today, picture added to the cool air-cooled bikes post
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I never tried as just warming it up in the shop yielded no change
So, I decided to make tooling to check fuel level in the bowls. Glad I did because even though floats were set the level was below limits! Fixed that and she was working very well.
Took her for a good heat up and all seem to be working just fine after resetting the pilot screws. Was on one last hard pull to check main jet and needle height. As I pulled out and cracked her she was pulling beautifully and I was thinking to myself ahhhh got it! Then all of a sudden baaaaaaa, no more ignition, she just quit.
So, checked fuse for ignition, that's good, checked my Newell installed ignition relay, yup that's good. And that's as far as I got. Going to check the Ignitor and pickups later today.
FFS!
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No o-rings on the 16 valve 1100.
So I found an article that said to rich on the pilot circuit with these particular carbs can also cause the problems I am having.
So for shits and giggles I set the pilot screws at 1 turn out, gonna take it for a run a little latter tonight to see the results?
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I machined down the cush drive surface for the sprocket when I put the 5.5 bandit wheel in my 1100 swinger in order to centre the wheel. I also made new spacers and had to use an offset front sprocket. It is not going to be a simple bolt in if that is what you are looking for! I run a 170 tire with about 1/4" clearance on each side.
Machining is required to make it work.
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So, I am out 3.5 turns on the pilot screws, starts no problem, as she pretty much always did. However, she still rises to approx 1500 once hot, after 20 minutes of hard driving.
They are the stock pilot jets, all new OEM carb boots, factory air box. She also has an off idle hesitation when hot, but pulls hard once 3-3500 rpm has been reached. A feathering of throttle at hot idle is required to get off the line smoothly.
The hesitation is not there when the bike is cold.
Bike has 4:1 Wolf exhaust with a very quiet pipe for a 4:1!
47.5 is the pilot jet, maybe move up to a 50? I do not want to come out more than 3.5 turns on the screws as they seem loose right now.
What I found odd was very little change at hot idle from 2.5 to 3.5 turns. -
Well, those 115 jets got her up and charging!
After I installed them I re-sync'd the carbs, set idle. Then had to run to my daughters grad dinner. Got her out for a short blast and she works great. But I noticed the idle increases when warmed up so I need to richen the pilot screws a tweak, tomorrow's job.
The bike handles and feels absolutely fantastic, pics to follow.
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Wow, that's weird the way it typed up?
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I pulled the carbs, again! Getting good at it now
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I now have my ignition problem sorted, bad ignition leads, or maybe just loose. I fooled around with it and it is running same temp on headers at idle.
However, at around 5000 she stutters, I am now thinking it is too rich on the MJ?
So, according to the FSM, I should have 112.5 main jet, it has a 122.5. Pilot jet should be a 45, I have a 47.5. Main air jet should be 1.2, I have a 1.6. The markings on the jets are CIB? Anybody ever heard of these?
When end I got the bike it had crap pods on it, I have since installed the factory airbox setup. I also have a set of 1150 cams installed, set to 105-107' IIRC, it's recorded somewhere.
So, I have done some research and from my readings it seems it is a good idea to go up a bit on the main and pilot jets to make the engine run better, in stock configuration, meaning stock airbox and maybe headers, which I have. But the readings say to go to a 115-120 MJ.
I have adjusted floats to 22mm, as per manual
I have a set set of Mikuni 115 MJ I am thinking of giving a go.
Advise please
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Yes, I tried another coil, still the same, will swap coils for. Further troubleshooting
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Should the air screws be different between the centre cylinders vs the outboard cylinders?
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Tried new plugs, no change, FFS! So as far as I am concerned I have done the simple stuff first.
so I just tore down a spare set of bs34ss carbs, I will put through the sonic cleaner on Monday and see what that does.
I put one of those jumpers that goes from the lead to the plug and spark was jumping a .040 gap, so I am thinking the ignition is good, at idle anyways?
Can anybody think of anything other than the carbs?
GS1000 Exhaust...
in Air Cooled
Posted
Here is a nice system I am considering for my 1000 https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/suzuki-gs1000-hindle-stainless-steel-exhaust-systems-to-fit-1978-80/