Fjbj40
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Posts posted by Fjbj40
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I am trying to get the ESD on the road. Engine rebuilt, everything adjusted as per manual. Carbs spotless, factory airbox installed with filter.
This am I finally got to take it for a spin, but she is gutless! Fires up at the flick of the button, idles nicely at 1100rpm.but as soon as you hit about 4-5000 she stutters and feels/sounds like a twin! So I went back home effortlessly, got out infrared temp gun and sure enough #4 was not as hot as the others. I could sizzle spit on all except #4. Ok I said, maybe I forgot a vacuum port, nope. Hmm, maybe a piece of shit got in the pilot jet, nope, even swapped it with #1, no joy. Ok, let's pull the carbs and try a set off a gsxr1100. Well she barks with those! So I take #4 off the rack, break it down and blow the shit out of every passage, but it all flows well. Passage from neddle jet to pilot circuit is clear, air jet for pilot circuit is clear as are all passages. So I adjust float heights to 20mm, reassemble, install and run. NFG, FFS!
ok, relax, change the coil, no better FFS!
I yank all 4 plugs, 1 and 4 are black while 2 and 3 are light grey. Something is fucking with my little brain and I am getting pissed!
so, can it be the Ignitor? But why did it run sooo good with the other carbs, maybe because there was no filters? I just slid them in the carb boots and fired her up.
Right now I am thinking ignitor, all the same I am going to grab 4 new plugs tomorrow. Right now I just have the plugs that came in the bike, and from my research they are incorrect, they are dpr9es, supposed to be d8es?
thanks for any help!
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Gave her a 4 oz drink in each cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil, see how that helps out
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Roger that, engine is out as of tonight. Will add a few ounces of penetrant and let her soak for a few weeks.
What a mess this thing was, a couple of engine mount bolts not even tight, one actually had no nut on it. No nut on the front sprocket, etc....
Easiest engine I ever pulled out of a bike, 4 cylinder anyways. That cradle is pretty neat!
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So this gsx1100f engine I got is stuck. I tried turning it with wrench from the timing cover side of engine. Not sure about these oil cooled engines, I am a virgin to them
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How much torque can I put on that 19mm timing wheel?
Is there a better spot to put some force on it. The fellow I bought it off said it ran last summer but spent the winter outside
, I thinks it spent its life outside by the corrosion on it!
I put a couple of tsp of penetrant down each cylinder.
I only managed to snap off 2 exhaust bolts! One pertruding and one flush.
I also drained out 7.5 ltrs of oil/gas mixture, no water though
, well a few drops but it was not rusty.
Thanks
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Probably get the engine running in the current frame to assess its health.
Then pull it apart, freshen it up and paint it for install into the GS1000 later down the road.
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Finally got my hands on a oil cooled engine, cheap also!
$225 Cdn or 130 Brittish pounds!
will see this week if it actually works
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Ok!
I have read through that one before but forgot about it. I was also under the impression, when I read the last time, your "FFS" it doesn't work post, was serious
. I see now, after that post, that it works 
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So, did you use coombehouse PDF drawing for your machine work?
thanks
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10 hours ago, Gammaboy said:
I haven't done an ignition relay, had an issue with another bike where voltage drop during starting caused the relay to flutter and this eventually killed something in the CDI.
I have thrown away the stock stator and crappy magnet rotor and moved to a modern rare earth magnet rotor and associated stator though.
This sounds interesting! Is there a thread on the site showing and explaining this set-up?
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21 minutes ago, Gammaboy said:
LiFePO4 Battery, Shindigen FH020AA or SH775 reg/rec, wire the stator directly to the reg rec instead of one phase being via headlight switch, job done.
Yup, exactly what I did
, get rid of that silly idea Suzuki had, also stops wires from melting. Do yourself a favour and also use the ignition switch wiring to close a relay instead of having all the power for the Fusebox go through the ignition switch -
I have been running a Ballistic 8 cell https://www.ballistic-batteries.com/product_info.php?products_id=425 in my 1000 for 4-5 years and my ass has not burnt off yet
, although the wife says it's flat enough that it looks like it has .
I also am running a #%!da RR from a gold thing, it is a 7 wire unit IIRC. Works just fine.
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Here is the fit of the 170 tire
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so you can see the clearance of a 530 with the GSX cush drive
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I was wrong
, it's a gs550 that is a 6 cushion whereas the 500 is a 5 cushion.
That being said, I am not sure of the 550 exact dimensions, I have only read that others have used it. The gsx1100 worked for me, after minor machining.
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The widths are listed online, such as here http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html
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AFAIK the 500 has 6, one of the reasons it's often used for the bandit wheel install on the GS/X. So if that is a 500 the difference in height is needed for the limited space on the GSX swinger with the 5.5 wheel.
I still had to machine down my GSX drive to get a few mm of clearance on the chain run next to the frame around the swinger pivot bolt.
Important thing to remember is you also need the spacers for inside the wheel for the bearing, the bandits are too long and loads up the bearing to cause failure.
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I know the bandit Cush drive is taller than the GSX Cush drive. You will probably find that the RF one is also taller. That is the reason I used the GSX vs the bandit Cush drive on my 1000. If memory serves me correct the GS 500 or 550 is also a 6 Cush and lower again and may not require machining. Going off memory fo the 500/550
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You can get 530 chains almost as narrow as some 520 chains so make sure you research before you make the assumption that a 520 is going to be a lot narrower than a 530. I am talking only a few mm wider than a 520.
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Not quite correct the GSX1100 (ET / Katana's - USA GS1100) use a 18mm pin like the GS1000 - the later GSX1100 (ie GS1150 / EFE ) had the 20mm pins, so those pistons could be fine. Just ask the seller the pin diameter?
Doh! Right you are, I was mixed up with the 1150, 20mm vs 18mm pins for the 1000/1100.
All the same, I have been told in the past the 4 valve pistons are a bad idea because of the valve reliefs? Never tried it because of that. Do you know of anybody that has? It would be interesting to hear the results.
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No, wrist pin is larger for the 4 valve engines vs the 2 valve engines. If you want to do it on the cheap then GS1100L, G or GK pistons will work.
Unless the set you are being offered are for the 2valve engines as there are big bore kits available for the 1100 2 valve engines, takes the engine to 1135 IIRC. However, the 1000 will not be happy with that much removed from the bores, you will need to re-sleeve or get a factory 1100 cylinder assy.
If you can see the kit being offered you will be able to tell the 4 valve possibility by the 4 valve reliefs in the piston head vs 2 reliefs.
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You can turn down a 530 to a 520 if memory serves me correct as they are the same pitch. Sprockets are just hardened on the teeth where the chain rollers contact. This I was told by a sprocket manufacturer.
Here is a Bridgestone Battllax 170, 17" on my 1000
some info here also https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?167060-520-Sprocket-to-fit-GS-sprocket-carrier/page2&highlight=Sprocket
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.080", give or take. It was to move the chain in alignment with the front sprocket.
Off the sprocket face of the Cush drive.
I used the under slung caliper and disc from the bandit, so I had to cut the torque arm off the top of the swinger and weld it to the lower side.
Just to make clear, this is a GS1000 that had GSX1100 swinger and wheels. There are some differences in frames so you will have to measure to make sure.
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Stick with the 170 tire, that's what I run and anything bigger makes things REAL tight!
You will have to have spacers machined. I put the B12 5.5 on my 1000 with the GSX1100 swinger. The spacers were all custom, the bearings as well as the internal spacers from the 1100 wheel were installed in the bandit wheel. The Cush drive from the 1100 is used on the bandit wheel, 6 cushions. Machined off .080 from the Cush drive sprocket face to move the rear 530 Sunstar sprocket in for frame clearance.
I have a 3/8 offset 530 front sprocket, you may have to clean up the welds on the chain run area around the swinger pivot bolt area. No frame notching required.
How many cushions on the RF Cush drive?
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I believe this is the European model, looks like the same master https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850g-e01-e02-e04-e17-e18-e21-e22-e24-e25-e26-e34-e39_model13499/partslist/FIG-77.html#results
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Gsx1100ef motor in gsxr1100w
in Air Cooled
Posted
Here is a GS 1000 stuffed into a gsxr1100 https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?229202-GS-1000-engine-in-GSXR-1100-first-gen-frame&highlight=