Fjbj40
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Posts posted by Fjbj40
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I have installed a Trail Tec Vapor gauge on my 1000. It has an option for oil or coolant temp. I have the sensor just trying to figure where to install the probe. options are oil cooler "in" line, sump or the oil gallery plug on the rh side of the engine.
Any opinions where to install?
Thanks
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There is a lip seal under the big knurled knob with the spring, here is a write-up http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html the Part numbers may not apply to yours though.
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Oops, I saw VM, jumped the gun on that one
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https://www.jetsrus.com/carburetor/carb_mikuni_VM33_carb_exploded_view_parts.html
At the bottom they give the jets and etc for a 1100 with the 33's
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Either way it would be a nice piece to have on an ESD!
I know I would love to have it for mine as she is being set up as a tourer
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If it's plastic it's a rare factory piece? If it's Fiberglass then a Lockhart?
My understanding anyways, but I am probably wrong
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Just so you know the light warning system on the ES and the EF bikes can be an issue. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?192643-Warning-lights&highlight=Warning in post #7 there is a blurb about it. My ES had similar issues so I eliminated the warning box and all is well now, just no headlamp out or tail light out warning, all other warnings work as normal.
I do have a link if you need to eliminate the box if it is unserviceable. There is no cutting of wires to do this, just jumpers at 1 switch block, for the North American models anyways.
Hope this helps in some way, cheers
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If you have a budget, then you should stay away from builds!
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Disassemble, clean then get the carbs sonic cleaned along with the internal parts.
You need to have all carb clamps loose, filter airbox removed, and patience to get the airbox on
The brake torque arm, the round splined bit, that the brake lever goes on has a dot on its end. The gap on the brake lever where it slides on the shaft is supposed to line up with the dot. That is as per factory, it may need changing from that?
Change engine oil, throw a small drop of oil down each plug hole. Turn engine over from R/H side with 17mm 6pt socket wrench, NOT the 12mm bolt! Crank away to pump oil through the galleries before trying to start.
The clutch plates may be stuck together also so be careful when you first try to engage when engine is running.
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That seat ruins the lines of the bike, here is mine with the factory seat.
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What size heel and tire you fitting?
I put a 5.5 with a170 tire on my GS1000 with a GSX1100 swinger and there was no frame cutting, I have 2-3mm chain clearance to frame with a 530 chain.
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Ultimately, if $2K was spent on repairs, you should return it for warranty. Clearly they failed in their repair work!
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I would pull the cyl head nuts (item 14) that have the o-rings (item17) if it's not leaking from the valve cover gasket.
https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40398f8700230d8b4eb31/cylinder-head
Get in there with some spray solvent to degrease, fire up bike and watch for leak.
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I looks like the individual that "changed the head gasket" has fucked you over!
Looks like the head has not been removed from the crud on there. If he did have the head off then why were the head nut o-rings not changed? It is standard practice to change them if the nuts are disturbed. The stator gasket is an easy change.
If it sat for 8 years then a carb rebuild is in order.
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Get a smaller lithium battery and install it in parallel with existing battery, that will get you 12 volts with the increased CCA you need. It would add maybe 2.5 lbs to the bike.
So from one battery to another you go, negative to negative, positive to positive. Ground one battery, or both if you wish and then from either positive post feed the start relay as per normal.
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Glad it was only $500. I have spent about $2000 on it so far and it still needs the panels painted! I expect to put about another $4-600 into it. Then it will pretty much be totally rebuilt, then there is the 250-300 hrs I personally spent on it=psych therapy
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1999 Bandit 12
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Why? A Dyna 'S' is designed to be used with a ATU. If its on an EFE engine without one, then THATS a really bad choice! That manual timing adjustment gizmo was originally designed for ProStock engines with stupid high CR's - knock the timing back to near TDC and it'll work good
Is an ATU "automatic timing unit"?
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The manual ignition retard may be oldskool, it may not be fancy enough for some of you here, but it is free
and that's good enough for me!
I tried the mod where the starter motors over the engine and ignition is off, then energize the kill button but still got kickback. A partial contributor to the kickback is probably the 8 cell ballistic lithium battery, it's not quite enough kick but for this bike it's all about the fit. The retard lever ended all kickback.
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My 1000 is a 1085 10.5:1 comp ratio and I experienced a lot of starter kickback. I did this and it works fantastic http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm , ignition retard is the answer IMOP.
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Lucky bugger you are, getting to go for a ride.
It snowed here tonight
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Well I put the VM33's back on. Re sync' them with the Morgan balancer.
Damn, I think I picked up 10 hp
, clutch is slipping now also when she hits about 6,000 rpm. Time for new plates I guess.
Winter is pretty much here so she is getting a full suspension overhaul, springs and emulators for the front and probably Podium shocks for the rear.
Cheers
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On November 19, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Cheeky4648 said:
Ok. The ferkin upholstery guy has done a moonlight!!!!!! Leaving me with no seat. Soooooo rummaged through the local breakers and found this seat. Is it a start for modifying? Or keep looking? Its the right width at the front but the back will need some work. Opinions welcome, good or bad
or @Fjbj40can just give me his seat 
Hehe, you and many people have asked for that seat. It is an original Zzerod (sp?) seat. The cover was shite when I got it. It's another one of those" if I had time I would replicate it" thingys!
Oh, no you can't have it!
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13.6 at idle? If so that's pretty good!
Rev it to 3-4000 and as long as it is below say 14.7-15 Volts and not lower than the 13.6 it is good to go.
oil temp sensor
in Air Cooled
Posted
Unfortunately that won't work, I should have mentioned my engine uses that plate area for the oil cooler feed and return.