Toecutter
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Posts posted by Toecutter
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Probably gsx r srad carbs with inlet boots to match correctly. The inlet ports on the 1400 cylinder head are tiny. Can run carbs on the 1400. Ignition from dyna or ignitek or similar can be used. Main issue is getting the port spacing correct. Won't need huge carbs either.
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Movement of the gear is normal back and forth. It's all ok.
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Have to look out for crash damaged 1400s. They do pop up here and there. The 750 Kat 1400 project had a Yamaha Engine in it to begin with. That's just wrong on many levels. However, it was done quite well. Luckily a crashed 1400 was within reach so all worked out well in the end.
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28 minutes ago, Blubber said:
My next project is an ET with a 1400 engine. Very optimistic thinking i would like to start that project - and document it here - this winter this year.
I still need to transfer the title but the ET is payed for and stored in my mates shed awaiting my free time
Still need to source a shit load of 14 stuff to have it running.
I am planning on using a 1st gen hayabusa fuel pump as they were external.
Awesome. Getting the engine to fit isn't that bad. It's all the little bits that add up. A lot of planning and thought processes. All in good time. Good idea with the fuel pump. The modifications to the katana tank pictured were extensive. Cutouts for cam position sensor, fuel tap blank off, fuel return tube, fuel sender machined mounting plates for this and that etc. All good if your tanks not rusted on the inside...a fine case of keep it simple etc. Best of luck for when you get round to it.
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Probably easier to run a separate fuel pump instead of in tank like the 1400. Not a lot of room in the gsx 1100 without major mods. Also loose a bit of fuel capacity. Much easier to transfer bodywork to 1400 frame. But then it's a 1400 with 1100 bodywork on...again not that straight forward.
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750/1400 Kat. Lots of mods to make it all fit. Including raising all the bodywork so the tank clears the cam cover.
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Fitted one into a Kat 750 frame. Standard front mounts fit from memory, rear uppers close but need fettling. We ended up machining a full set specifically. Made a removable rhs frame rail and scooped the lower frame rails so the sump had more clearance. Engine mounts easy enough to make templates so you are happy with where it sits/aligns to be on the safe side before making final mounts. Doable without removable frame rail but it is tight...
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Just a little but haha, niceone. Cheers.
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I'm not with my Bike at the moment. Would someone be able to confirm what the oil filler cap thread size is please? Have a feeling it's m22x1.5 but not 100% sure.
Cheers.
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I've found carefully drilling the centre to accept a helical extractor and heat input to work well. Also left hand drill bits are handy. Take your time and don't stress is the key.
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A 180 is doable, but chain run is tight to frame. A couple of mm at best. Can notch the frame to suit with good results. I've machined sprocket carrier a couple of mms to suit and 3/8 offset front sprocket what have you to line things up accordingly. You Can do all of that and also run a 170 tyre to be on the safe side. 180 tyres don't always measure true 180 depending on manufacturer when fitted. I've had some chains kiss the rear tyre and others not. Hence why I dropped to a 170. Albeit, 170 tyres limit your manufacturer/tyre options.
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Cool. Does the job. With the machined ones, just need to come up with a method for attachment. Prob be tapped thread so can be attached from the inside of the headlamp securely. Probably look quite blingy in bare ally so might look at blacking out the background and keeping the suzuki bare. Think it'll look better that way and not too ott. We'll see...
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Cool. Have you a pic?
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As these are very hard to come by nowadays in decent condition I was thinking of having some machined as per original style. I know people have 3D printed them with good results and they do look good. Machined ally ones made all in one piece is the idea. Not sure if anyone has done them. I'll get a set done as I need some to finish my project. I'll post a pic when I have them. All being well would anybody be interested if I was to get a batch made?
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I have used keyster sets many times with fine results. Change all o-rings and the float needle and seat and all should be good. NRP carbs are very good for harder to get bits. Don't bother to phone through any orders though, much quicker to order from their website. With keyster carb kits be sure to double check your pilots and main/emulsion tube jet sizes as not always a direct replacement for your particular carb set.
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Had a butchers and the bolt had backed out again. All back together and loctite on bolt. Crank taper fine with no damage. Ignition advancer removed and back to standard. Starter clutch internals All ok. All running good so far. No nasty noises from starter clutch which is nice.
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Thanks. I'll pop the casing and have a look over the weekend. Did plan on swapping the ignition advancer back to standard so will do that at the same time off my spare engine. They dont tend to make much difference anyway. Happened to be fitted to the engine when I acquired it so just left it on.
Cheers.
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Is there a common problem with slabbie starter clutches? Rebuilt a knackered starter clutch with new rollers and springs as worn and slipping. During cranking i'm getting a nice clack on initial start up-first start of the day for example. Bike then starts fine without any issue for the rest of the day. When this first happened, I had a nosey inside and the retaining bolt had backed off. This has been lapped on as usual and a dab of loctite added to the threads. Taper on crank all good. Recently stripped another 1100 engine and the starter clutch had shot the spring and plunger straight through the side of the clutch leaving a large hole. The two others looked like they were about to make the same bid for freedom.
Yesterday when I went to start the bike, I just had spinning from the starter clutch and no engagement. It did catch eventually and start.
I need to take a look to see if the nuts backed off again. The bike is running with a new motobatt and spins over fine. Also has a 5 degree ignition advance. I have a feeling the crank is back spinning and causing the loud clack, witch eventually backs the bolt off.
Is this common? I know the same starter clutch assy is used for many suzuki models from 600 bandits up to the 1200s and the gsxrs etc.
Thanks. TC.
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if its any help, pearl black, marble pure red, candy florida blue and stardust silver metallic. not sure of codes though.
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Grease gun all the way. Works every time
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Your probably looking around the 130-135# mikuni main jet size. Get the main jet correct and then fine tune backwards to iron out any niggles and ensure a smooth cruise etc. Will take a bit of faffing to get it close. Finish up with a decent dyno operator to get her bang on. Do check though, before you start with the carbs that you have good strong spark. Ignition timing and everything functioning correctly as this will effect your tuning. I have found good results with just main jet and needle tweakage without using kits in the past just takes a bit of time.
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Ok. no probs. I'll pm you a message with my address.
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Where abouts are you? I would be happy to TIG it for you and leak test afterwards if you don't mind posting it out. Is the rest of the bottom solid?
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Awesome! Bargain and a runner too. Have fun with it.
Re-chroming Exhausts
in Air Cooled
Posted
Most good plating companies have dedicated tanks for dealing with the rough stuff. Good results can be achieved, however, it's expensive and worth assessing what you have and what you expect to receive back. If corrosion has eaten heavily into your parts, all you will get back is nicely plated puckered, uneven base material. It has always been an expensive process and even more so now. It's not an environmentally viable process and everyone is trying to shut these places down. As a rough idea, a Harris 4 into 1 system, including baffle was recently quoted at £550 for dip and rechrome.