Toecutter
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Posts posted by Toecutter
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I personally prefer to have forks re chromed. Costs around 270 ish now for a set. Have used aftermarket stanchions a few times and not too impressed by the finish. The last set I bought for my slabby I found the surface to mark very easily. They have been on there around a year now and you can visibly see where dust and road debris have scored the stanchions. They haven't begun to rust though however or show any signs of pitting.
Only downside to the re chrome option is about a six week turnaround.
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Ah, yes that makes sense now. Is the oil then diverted to the crankcase after pump in ignition cover?
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Looking good so far. May I ask what the fitting is for on the ignition cover?
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Have you tried wemoto? They list the swingarm bearing kit which also includes the bearings for the cusion. £85. Just double check all parts required are included. This was a search for 1990 slingshot 750...
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Should be 8mm ID.
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Looks like a gsx 750 et with slingshot front end and swingarm etc. little bit of tank showing in one of the pics looking a bit katana like. Rear subframe from something else or home made. Was originally a twin shock bike. Nice Harris pipe on there.
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That's not a bad shout to be fair. Worth a peek for sure. Cheers.
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Cheers for the info. I have checked engine mounts etc, literally been through everything. Haven't yet adjusted fuel tank as mentioned above however, if that's the case I'm sure if feel vibes in knees and both hands, not just the right side. The plot thickens...
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Is the kit from a reputable source? Have you seen it in person/checked it out by any chance?
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Yeah, it's quite tricky to pin down. No vibration felt elsewhere, only in the right hand. I get what you mean about vibes in knees through tank though. It's a very high frequency buzz. I don't ride with a death grip either, very loose. Wheels balanced, chain and sprox good, brakes free and not binding etc. High speed riding its not evident, it's in the 3500 to 5000rpm region. I know the older engines are a little more vibey but this was also evident on the original engine too.
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Everything is standard apart from yoshi cyclone. Tank rubbers are in correct place with regards to manual. Perhaps after market tap sits a little lower...
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I've been chasing an annoying vibration on my slabby for a while now. The vibration is making my right hand numb after about 40 minutes into riding. I've been over every thing since I have recomissioned the bike. The bike had been off the road for 25 years, so full strip down and replaced every bearing etc, everything refurbed etc. Engine sound, carbs synced etc. Tried various things to try to eliminate the vibration including heavier weighted bar ends.
Just been for a hoon and still have vibes. Just had a look under the fuel tank and the bottom of the tap is just resting on the oil tube, only just touching. The frame cushions are in place, but I have positioned them in front of the cross rail before the airbox. has anyone any idea as to where they are supposed to be mounted. If I move them back it looks like it'll raise the rear of the tank just enough to clear the oil tube and hopefully sort the issue.
Cheers.
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Most good plating companies have dedicated tanks for dealing with the rough stuff. Good results can be achieved, however, it's expensive and worth assessing what you have and what you expect to receive back. If corrosion has eaten heavily into your parts, all you will get back is nicely plated puckered, uneven base material. It has always been an expensive process and even more so now. It's not an environmentally viable process and everyone is trying to shut these places down. As a rough idea, a Harris 4 into 1 system, including baffle was recently quoted at £550 for dip and rechrome.
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Probably gsx r srad carbs with inlet boots to match correctly. The inlet ports on the 1400 cylinder head are tiny. Can run carbs on the 1400. Ignition from dyna or ignitek or similar can be used. Main issue is getting the port spacing correct. Won't need huge carbs either.
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Movement of the gear is normal back and forth. It's all ok.
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Have to look out for crash damaged 1400s. They do pop up here and there. The 750 Kat 1400 project had a Yamaha Engine in it to begin with. That's just wrong on many levels. However, it was done quite well. Luckily a crashed 1400 was within reach so all worked out well in the end.
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28 minutes ago, Blubber said:
My next project is an ET with a 1400 engine. Very optimistic thinking i would like to start that project - and document it here - this winter this year.
I still need to transfer the title but the ET is payed for and stored in my mates shed awaiting my free time
Still need to source a shit load of 14 stuff to have it running.
I am planning on using a 1st gen hayabusa fuel pump as they were external.
Awesome. Getting the engine to fit isn't that bad. It's all the little bits that add up. A lot of planning and thought processes. All in good time. Good idea with the fuel pump. The modifications to the katana tank pictured were extensive. Cutouts for cam position sensor, fuel tap blank off, fuel return tube, fuel sender machined mounting plates for this and that etc. All good if your tanks not rusted on the inside...a fine case of keep it simple etc. Best of luck for when you get round to it.
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Probably easier to run a separate fuel pump instead of in tank like the 1400. Not a lot of room in the gsx 1100 without major mods. Also loose a bit of fuel capacity. Much easier to transfer bodywork to 1400 frame. But then it's a 1400 with 1100 bodywork on...again not that straight forward.
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750/1400 Kat. Lots of mods to make it all fit. Including raising all the bodywork so the tank clears the cam cover.
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Fitted one into a Kat 750 frame. Standard front mounts fit from memory, rear uppers close but need fettling. We ended up machining a full set specifically. Made a removable rhs frame rail and scooped the lower frame rails so the sump had more clearance. Engine mounts easy enough to make templates so you are happy with where it sits/aligns to be on the safe side before making final mounts. Doable without removable frame rail but it is tight...
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Just a little but haha, niceone. Cheers.
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I'm not with my Bike at the moment. Would someone be able to confirm what the oil filler cap thread size is please? Have a feeling it's m22x1.5 but not 100% sure.
Cheers.
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I've found carefully drilling the centre to accept a helical extractor and heat input to work well. Also left hand drill bits are handy. Take your time and don't stress is the key.
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A 180 is doable, but chain run is tight to frame. A couple of mm at best. Can notch the frame to suit with good results. I've machined sprocket carrier a couple of mms to suit and 3/8 offset front sprocket what have you to line things up accordingly. You Can do all of that and also run a 170 tyre to be on the safe side. 180 tyres don't always measure true 180 depending on manufacturer when fitted. I've had some chains kiss the rear tyre and others not. Hence why I dropped to a 170. Albeit, 170 tyres limit your manufacturer/tyre options.
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New aftermarket fork stanchions or originals rechromed...
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yes also to philpots but six week turnaround at the moment...