Toecutter
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Posts posted by Toecutter
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Ha, you responded while I was typing. Ignore my post.
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
lifted the needles a notch (5th groove) and 3 1/5 turns out and still popping and hanging rev's !!!! but rain has stopped play.
the instructions say "US market only" !!! I wonder if thats got anything to do with it ?
theirs a lot to be said about airbox's
Did you have a good idle before fitting the kit? Are your float heights correct and are the carbs synced?
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Found some at bofiracing in uk. £5 each for future reference.
Cheers.
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Does anyone happen to know where to source gsx 1400 fuel line couplings pref in UK without buying the whole line assembly? After the 90 degree one. Ordered a pair from ze Germanz but they are too small on id...
Thanks.
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2 minutes ago, clivegto said:
I have one on the Harris just for dyno runs.
Cool, that was the style of final exhaust I'm going for. Guess it works ok there for you for dyno tuning?
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Cheers. Yes, with gauge. Not going to be permanently mounted, just for tuning purposes. Then will fit stubby style exhaust exit. I have a few exhaust flanges laser cut to hand to make variations which is handy.
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Ok, thanks. Thought too close to headers would be too hot. Plan on making a longer exhaust outlet for setting up and set sensor bung around 300mm from turbo exit and extend the exhaust quite a distance past that point.
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Where are people placing their sensors on their blow through setups? I have a short exhaust exit from turbo so not really ideal placement. Putting a port on the downpipes could be an option but will look a little unsightly when plugged after setup and may be a little hot on the downpipes. I suppose I could make a longer exhaust outlet purely for setup. May have just answered my own question...
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Yeah, I had good results years ago using them mainly on old British bikes. I've long since lost/sold mine however.
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I personally wouldn't take colour tune for gospel these days. They were good years ago but with the fuel we have these days is it actually indicative of true burn colour? It's like plug chop readings, are they giving accurate results as per 15+ years ago? Or am I talking shite?
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I have a ledar air corrector set of 4 air jets available for gsx1100 if you would like them but not too sure on what main jets you would need for that kit. I'm sure someone with more experience would be able to advise. The settings I had in mine with a Harris pipe and individual k&n, oval style individual pods was: #135 main jets which I have. Dynojet needles in third clip, which is in the middle. And pilot mixture screws at 2.5 turns out. Standard pilot jets. Unfortunately, the dyno jet needles I have are from a gsx r and they are damaged so not usable. Not sure what happened to the gsx ones... You could use stock needles and have a play with clip settings which can easily be done whilst on the bike or source some dj needles. In any case, one person's settings may not get you bang on, but might be quite close with a bit of fettling.
If any of the above is useful, let me know and I can post out whatever you need.
Ideally, dyno time will tell all.
Cheers,
T.
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No worries, I'll grab me box tomorrow and go through and let you know what I have.
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I'll have a look when I get to work tomorrow. I might have all the info written down as to the jetting on my 1100 before I swapped my carbs out for slingshot ones. I know I have a ledar air corrector kit in my carby box, but personally have never fitted one. My settings may get you pretty close, but also dependant on variables eg: engine spec, condition of engine, pipe, filters, fuel supply and what have you. I'll let you know later tomorrow if ok? Might save you a bit of faff.
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Z and gs share the same guide sizes. If you need any, fastec racing in UK have what you need.
Cheers,
T.
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Not me personally. I use rock guardian 10w40 in all mine. Sure it's ok though.
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One on the left.
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Ideally valve clearances are checked and set before carb sync is undertaken. Assuming you have no vacuum leaks at the boots and as you are using a pingle tap, all vacuum take off ports on the carbs should be plugged off too. Assuming everything is ok internally with the carbs and your jetting is very very close if not bang on, then popping on decel is normal. Any popping/farting at idle Could be air leak related and or carb sync. Is the idle smooth or does it flactuate when popping then drop off then rise then settle etc?
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Syncing the carbs might help your popping if they are still quite out after bench syncing. Might be worth checking valve clearances of you haven't already before syncing carbs. Do you mean the exhaust gaskets you haven't checked? Could cause popping if leaking a little.
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I wouldn't necessarily say they are undesirable. All the major manufacturers were trying all sorts at the time, they all had their own ideas to alleviate 'dive' some better than others. I think modern suspension has come a long way. If you look at motocross forks and Many road bikes where one fork is compression, the other rebound etc times have changed. Still, no matter what technologies exist it's still an unavoidable issue to a degree. But does it really matter? If you brake hard in a straight line and experience dive what actually happens? Nothing really. If you brake hard mid corner the bike tries to stand you upright and anti dive surely becomes meaningless. I think its just a gimmick of the time really. I'm sure someone may pop along with the answer shortly...
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All back together. Painted anti dive units, vapour blasted fork lowers, new seals etc. Looks tidy enough. No more leaks. Anti dives still poo...
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I measured the seal/plunger diameter. It measures 22x12x5mm. Got a pair from egay, viton double lippers. All o-rings inside are easy to get hold of. Suzuki don't list any repair kits of any kind and suggest you replace the whole unit...hope that helps.
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Stripped the leaking anti dive down and it's the main oil seal that's failed, leaking oil into the top housing and out through the cable guide hole. Should hopefully be able to source seals the same size. Will go for a double lipped seal of I can get them. Hopefully that should sort them. Hooked them up to a battery to test they both function before stripping down. Ones a bit lazy so that also needs rectifying/good clean should do it.
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40 minutes ago, ddd said:
Hi , can anyone help, what brake light switch fits this on my custom GSXr 1100, the engine is 1987, not sure about the rest, work in progress
Has it got a hole for a peg and 1x threaded hole? If so, a busa front brake switch should fit that cylinder.
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Interesting. I'll just order the five hole gasket and snip off the unneeded mounting hole portion then. Cheers.
Air cooled injection.
in Air Cooled
Posted
I'm liking the look of this. Yeah, there's a bit of work involved but I think it'll be pretty neat when finished. Worth a go. Good on ya!