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Gammaboy

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Posts posted by Gammaboy

    She’s petit, beautifully proportioned and Italian..

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    On 1/17/2024 at 3:52 AM, Mike990 said:

    I read your posts with interest - thanks! I think my journey to getting mine roadworthy has been a bit more straightforward than yours. Where are you at with it now?

    Cheers Mike 

    Hah, yeah, being one of Oily's (which explains the carbon half of the airbox) yours has been well looked after at least up until the point it sat, mine (well, the main part) got dropped off it's side stand at some point, got bought from the insurers and say as a parts donor at one of the Bimota importers. 

    Anyway, after 4 years of not having the bike to be able to work on it, I'm finally getting back onto it, and remembering where I was up to.... 

    Bimota SB6

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    Haha, so didn't actually fit the gasket untill a couple of days before Christmas. Had planned on getting a fair bit done over the Christmas/New Years break, but between the shitty, stinking hot weather, and all the other (non Bike related) shit I wound up doing, I didn't actually touch it... However, holy shit, I did work on it today. 

    Pulled the seat unit and tank, dropped the top of the radiator and swapped out the coolant pipe that had the buggered chrome that I rattle canned with black Killrust with a new old stock unit I'd picked up. Thankfully, past me had made a point of lining up all the hose clamps so I could actually get at them.

    PXL_20240114_045936155.thumb.jpg.899cf8d8a04bce11fdec15bf95b3487d.jpg

    Of course, this particular pipe never sees daylight, but I know it's there....

    Also swapped the mounting bracket and heatshield across from the stock cans to the factory "race" cans - tips certainly fill the hole a bit better, but I forgot to take a pic.

    • Like 2

    Bimota SB6

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    So last night I was digging through my boxes of stuff I picked up while I was in Euwrop, and realised there was an ignition advancer there... so had a quick look at the cover and realised the factory gasket was not there, which struck me as odd for the low mileage this thing has... what's the bet that when I whip the cover off, there will be a Yosh ignition rotor in there?

     

    Ordered a gasket, will pull the cover to have a look tonight.

     

    Stay tuned for tomorrow's episode!

    Bought a 750 W for parts, now I’m thinking about keeping it.

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted · Edited by Gammaboy

    On 12/14/2022 at 1:29 PM, Upshotknothole said:

    Are the 92/93 banana swing arms interchangeable with the 94/95 braced swing arms? I've got a banana swing arm that I want to swap out for that braced one.

    94/95 uses a larger swingarm pivot bolt. The usual trick when fitting the braced arm to an earlier bike is to use the early bearing inner and spacer inside the later bearings and spacer. Obviously this won't work going the other way, the only way I can think to make it work is having threaded adaptors machined to adapt the early pivot bolt to the later frame.

    As mentioned, the head braces have to be discarded or cut and shut for an 1100 or RF900 bottom end swap (allegedly this will make it floppier than a WN, as the frame wall thickness was reduced on the WP). Early 1100W engines don't have the boss for the head braces.

    • Like 1

    GSX 1100 katana max cc on standard block

    in Air Cooled

    Posted

    On 5/18/2022 at 10:44 AM, Gixer1460 said:

    I'm confused? What's the difference except your recommendation is twice as much work? If you skim first you reduce the liner flange recess depth, so liners will protrude - unless you machine the recess as well then you might have to machine the cases to accommodate the 'dropped' liners. Most liner flanges can take a 10 - 20 thou facing cut without drama so why not install and face cut in one operation? Or is this all related to block bottom?

    Will 1075 cases accept bigger OD 1135 liners without boring?

    All the talk of decking is in relation to the bandit liner/1360cc set-up.

    Nope, 1075 cases need clearancinh for 1135 liners.

    The bandit liners are shorter than the stock ones, so them sitting 3mm lower is not an issue.

    If you're skimming 3mm off the flange of the liner, you have about a mm of flange thickness left from memory, which has been shown to be marginal. You have to bore the block for the larger liner flanges anyway, so might as well do it deeper and keep the flange thickness.

    Bimota SB6

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted · Edited by Gammaboy

    On 5/3/2022 at 8:39 PM, Gammaboy said:

    Here's what the manual says. Of course, one of these settings is for the Mk1 bikes, the other for the MK2 - I guess driven by the difference in cam profiles

    PXL_20220503_183908128.thumb.jpg.9230fd38a6ab977126aff813a35bf875.jpg

    I'm wrong on the difference in carb settings being Mk1/MK2 - E-04 is French market, which got neutered cams (as opposed to the inlet restrictions that some markets got).

    Bimota SB6

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    On 4/6/2022 at 6:50 PM, Captain Chaos said:

    I would have thought there is a breather in the tank cap.

    There's a breather sat just Infront of the filler cap, with an overflow hose coming off of it. Dare say it's not working if the tank bloats. If it's building pressure, it's going to fuck with the effective float height and the fueling.

    On 4/18/2022 at 12:10 AM, ArcanumOne said:

    What is the best jetting and carburetor setting for the SB6 with stock cans and air box?  I have mixture screws 2 turns out, stick idle jet #40  120 mains across all 4 carbs, needle height set in the middle 3rd level.  The bike has a bit of stumble and hesitation when warm from about 4k rpm then launches like mad…..

    Don't know honestly. I've set mine up to the Bimota workshop manual. Of course, I haven't even been in the same hemisphere, let alone put fuel in it for the last 2 1/2 years. Hoping to change that this year.

    Fellow Watercoolers! I'm on the hunt for a completely unobtainium part!!

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    12 hours ago, djayedot said:

    Thanks man. I actually did some digging and you are correct- although I actually need the *upper* Panigale rad, but I will be running it in a lower position. Hope it can be made to fit, sure looks bigger in pics than I recalled! I will have to chop off and weld up the filler neck, of course.

     

    Question about the oil cooler conversion- Can I just make a bypass tube between the two banjo bolt oil cooler connections? Or must I go to a 600/750 oil pan and pickup that doesn't have them? Not sure if my header will clear one due to the different sump design...

    Bypass pipe will work. Not sure if there's a way to make the bypass internal though. 

    Bimota SB6

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    So, a while ago I bought a spare tacho and water temp gauge as there was a little wiring oddness I wasn't sure about on mine. The gauges are made by CEV, and are very similar to Ducati 916 and Cagiva Mito gauges (in fact, I'd say apart from the bezel shape and the face, the Speedo and Water temp are the same, Tacho is a bit bigger). The Tachos have a little three pin connector on the back, and on the Mito, and a number of the parts gauges I bought a whole back, the connector pins had broken their solder joints and pushed through. The tacho on the bike wierdly has 3 wires direct to the board, and a slightly different sub loom to every other one I've seen. Anyway, a bloke I the UK had a tach/temp set with sub loom and carbon surrounded for sale, so I grabbed it.

    Skip forward to a few days ago, and someone else posted on the UK Bimota faceache site seeking a set of gauges, not sure what had happened, but the lense of his Speedo was shattered, temp had a big crack (like all the Ducati and Mito ones do!) and his Speedo lens and bezel were completely fucked. So I wandered down and grabbed my gauge set, ready to offer them for sale, when I realised I could just 3D print a set of bezels. So, what you see here is the culmination of about 15minutes of measuring and cad work, two 5 hour test prints to check the shape (needed a tweak) and size calibration (turns out I had to tweak my steps/mm by 1%) and then another 14 hours of printing, and 20minutes of tidying up with a scalpel and some light sanding....

    PXL_20220119_211923248.thumb.jpg.5114b67174c30182b7c4db51580c3712.jpg

    PXL_20220120_214305869.thumb.jpg.c959a2dd40dac968f9deeb9c0a63eca8.jpg

    PXL_20220121_081340315.thumb.jpg.638e7b4894ab967e8bc97fba2d2f477b.jpg

    Original bezels are shitty plastic, so the 3D print is possibly stronger. They of course need prime and paint, and a lens glued in (2.5mm acrylic shaped on a shaving mirror should do it), but should get him out of trouble.

    And of course, while measuring my spare tacho, I discovered two of the three pins had pushed through on the connector, and someone had made an attempt at prying the bezel off in one spot... So I'll need to do something about that in the future. Hell, now I've got the cad sorted, I could even get them CNCd in aluminium and anodised...

    So, no real progress for mine apart from the fork cartridges making their way to K-tech, but at least something SB6 related.

     

     

    • Like 2

    GSXR1100W carbs

    in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes

    Posted

    On 1/5/2022 at 11:42 AM, Gammaboy said:

    BST34?36? - junk the US spec 1100s got

    {Snip}

    RF900 runs something annoyingly small, and downdraft. I think a few people have swapped re-spaced downdraft Yam or SRAD carbs onto RF900s though.

    US 1100Ws got BST36.

    RF900 is a 36 too, and just stumbled onto a thread where a guy re-spaced downdraft FCRs from a ZZR1100 onto a RF, so respaced ZZR carbs may be an option there too (I have a feeling SRAD carbs would be *too* downdraft). 

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