Crass
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Posts posted by Crass
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Just state what bike it's for when you order it and the retailer will send you the correct length. You only need to order by length if you have a non-standard chain run.
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14 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Try BDS Motorcycles in North Shields, ask for Dave. He's got a big tank that'll take a full bank! Ferry or tunnel, won't take long! 0191 257 7116.
'kin hell, that's some ultrasonic bath that'll fit a ferry in
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I use Wemoto bearings and never had a problem. They do complete sets for various components. Good quality bearings and saves buggering about getting sizes, just order by bike model. Big saving on OEM.
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Personally, I think it depends entirely on what roads you ride. Good quality A or B roads I'd say probably not necessary nowadays with improved tyres and suspension. But if you're partial to minor roads which can have some interesting surface variations a damper can occasionally be a useful insurance policy if you're cracking on. Can be a personal thing.
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Do you particularly want decals? Reason I ask is cos my painter just replicated all the decals in paint and damn fine it looks too. And now future-proofed from the usual age related decal issues. Personally I wouldn't use decals in future having seen the light. So once you've sorted the artwork get it done in paint, not vinyl.
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As there are quite a few OSSers relatively near Ollerton, where we had this year's dyno day, and who probably know the Green Hut cafe (formerly Forest Corner), this might be relevant. It's under new ownership and the new tenants are very bike friendly. Chatting to them today they say they are looking to put on a bike night one day a week next year and would love to see loads of Old Skool Suzooks. Ok, I made the very last bit up, they said loads of bikes but I'm sure that's what they meant
. Looking at pie and peas suppers on these nights. Anyway, they have a FB page for those who do that sort of thing and details will appear there in due course.
New menu with changing weekend specials too. Fill those leathers!
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Cmsnl must be about the most expensive place to buy them from though! If you want good quality pattern you could save yourself money looking at Wemoto instead. I've used the Slinkyglide bearings they sell and found them excellent. In fact, I've never had any crap off Wemoto.
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Really enjoyed that and localish to me in Doncaster, I often ride out that way to the Green Hut cafe in Ollerton. Wanted to get another dyno run as the last one I had in 2014 after I finished restoring my Slingy showed a frankly disappointing 94hp and rich on the pilots. I tweaked and subsequently replaced the Devil can with an A16. I thought I'd done the trick but you never really know until you get it on the Anti -BS Machine. 104hp and a decent A/F with a stock motor - I'll take that.
Dyno man was was the dogs. Good, friendly advice. Top man. Thanks @PaulM for organising it.
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Will be popping down for a gander shortly.
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I have a feeling I've read before on here the rear subframe is different, so the plastics are probably not interchangeable, but no doubt someone better informed will be along shortly.
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31 minutes ago, eddiegsx said:
How can anyone not think its beautiful? whats not to like?
The god-awful lights. Looks like something bodged on by an infant. Lets the whole thing down.
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My 1990 750L doesn't need the clutch lever pulled so I'd be surprised if an 1100 from 88 did
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11 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
damn that looks messy.
And that's just the blue anodized levers
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Personally I'd still go for hammering a sacrificial star socket bit into it and unscrewing it
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If someone had the rocker cover off to do the valve clearances and dropped a caphead bolt in the head I presume it's possible for it to have gone down an oilway or, more likely, the camchain tunnel? They might not have even noticed, just found one missing when putting it back together. Bloody shoddy workshop practice mind but we've all seen both amateurs and so called professionals who really shouldn't be working on bikes.
As for the gear issue - the seller did say it had a gearbox problem
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My foam had visibly deteriorated and the clocks were loose in their mounting. The clock cases were contacting the metal mounting plate. If yours have none of these issues I would say you would be curing a problem which you don't have, leave it. I have a non-OSS bike I've owned from new since 94 which uses similar clock mounting and is in pretty much as new condition. I won't do that one until it needs it. Just keep an eye on it.
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Just a quick update after getting the bike out after winter. At ther risk of speaking too soon this repair seems to have worked in all respects. Went for a 100+ miles run down the usual bumpy back roads out of Plod's way, the speedo no longer rattles about and the needle stayed intact. Speedo is working fine again. I'll update at the end of the year and if, fingers crossed, everything is still fine then anyone else suffering the same issue could try gluing too.
A big thanks to OSS for the advice on this one. Left to my own devices I'd have tried to prise the needle off to replace it and likely buggered the thing up good and proper.
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If you just cut it out you leave that circuit completely unprotected from overload which could fry your loom. Much better to replace it with a 30A inline fuse which costs less than a pint of beer, retaining full protection but removing a source of unreliability.
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7 hours ago, Dezza said:
......... Or do HEL just get the 40 quid ones in bulk, put a sticker on, and then offload them to mugs like me for a massive profit margin?
Yebbut the sticker makes it work twice as good, hence the price hike
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Trouble I found with touch up kits for metallic paints like the pearl cool white is application. This type of paint has to be applied in a very light film, i.e. by spray, for the metal particles to lie properly. If you apply it with a brush, touching up, the film is always wrong and the paint then never matches, it looks too dark because the paint is not reflecting the light properly. The only way IMO to get a correct match is to apply it by spray.
For paint chips it's a total waste of time and money using the correct Suzuki white as a touch up, it looks gash anyway, you might as well just use a dab of any white paint. If you've got a bigger area to sort the only way it will look anything like is a spray job, airbrush etc. But you're either going to need to know what you're doing or give it to someone who does.
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Is it really worth buggering about at a seal factors for? £2.44 from Robinsons for the right OEM part.
If you do a search I'm pretty sure this had been discussed before. IIRC it's easy, the only thing you have to be careful of is holding the shaft in place once you remove the circlip to stop the pawl disengaging from the selector mechanism. The seal itself should come out with the usual self tapping screw easy enough. Can't see it being a difficult job, there's so little to it.
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On 1/17/2019 at 1:07 PM, Dezza said:
High density foam is freely available on the interwebs. Can you cut your own new bit to fit? I ask as I have to get a load of the stuff to mount the tank correctly on my project bike and I will be making my own foam clock surround.
What Dezza said. You might want to look at my recent thread here
as I also replaced the OEM foam surround with high density. Might help you with the job.
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Is there nothing in the rules about anodised tat? Jeez, this place is going downhill
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Surely if he's turned the engine over a stuck valve would have been clouted shut by the piston?
2020 Dyno Day
in Events
Posted · Edited by Crass
(Cough, cough...) ... and who wasn't paying attention in geography lessons? (Ollerton is in Notts)
Deffo be up for that anyway, was a top dyno man and nice to meet other Oldskoolers.