Oilyspanner
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Posts posted by Oilyspanner
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I wonder if anyone has a piston to hand they could weigh - I weighed the Wiseco pistons (for balanced pairs), but not the std pistons - just out of interest really....
The Wiseco 1186 pistons weigh 237.8g average.
Ta very much Oily
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Either would work. If you keep the feeds correct for each pair of coils, which you've done and they're linked in series properly as you show - both would work - the coils aren't pole sensitive. I think I connected mine like the second diagram. Putting labels on the feeds from the ecu/cdi and corresponding 2 wires on the new sub-loom makes it easier once you've covered the new loom with loom tape - it avoids connecting the pairs the wrong way round and getting a loud backfire when you're tired and putting things back together - like I did - I was wide awake very quickly ! It wasn't helped by the fact I used the same wire coding for both pairs of coils, if you use the same coding as the bike's, you wouldn't need to label the loom ends.
I love the conversion, it works really well and is so much neater.
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Don't do it ! - weighs a ton, has no advantage over dual swinger, hard to get the suspension to work as well as std linkage setup and it's from a H**da........
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All the oil cooled engines (not GSX1400) will bolt into your frame, earlier 1052 cc 1100, later 1127cc GSXR and GSX1100F - 1157cc bandit 1200 . The engines are the same size externally, apart from barrel height - this makes a 7/11. You can use your cylinder head on the big capacity engines for a power boost.
Welcome to the world of the oil cooled Suzukis - There's more details that can be found on the search facility, owners may add some detail too - it's 4am and my bed's calling me !
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I go along with Banoffee - the radial m/cylinder from 1000 K5 - on, 750/600 K6 - on , work very well with the 4 pot Nissins and good HH pads.
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Thanks for the video D.sunc ! always like a bit of GSXR action ..... are you on a bike with 1100 engine and a 6 speed box ? - gaps between the gears seem different - could just be getting old and senile though !
The 750 Showa usd forks were brilliant, much better action than the 1100's - team Yoshi raced with the 4 pot Nissins for a few seasons - make sure the pistons move freely and aren't crudded up, the late radial master cylinders work really well with the 4 pots, EBC HH pads work really well and SBS too (for road work)
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I was surprised how much effect they made BD - I guess by moving away from standard engine set up means it's worth altering the amount of resistance caused by the vent pipe length/or slight restriction - at least it's quick and cheap to experiment, makes a change !
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Just thought I'd share something I did to finally get my 40mm BST carbs' on/off throttle response really smooth. The bike has been freed up on intake and exhaust, plus a bit of porting. I have a Factorypro config 3.0 kit (normally for pods) and had got the carburation pretty good - good tick over, nice pick up on the needle and pulled good and strong on the mains, but there was a hesitation as the butterflies were just cracked open - fine when having fun, but it was always there when pootling round (has to be done sometimes !). Over time I fiddled around with all the normal things to sort it, different pilots, every option of the pilot screws, check/recheck of fuel levels/float heights, carbs balanced several times - even checked electrics.....
Anyway - my bike has never had any carb vent hoses fitted and just for the sake of it I fitted some and found they affect carburation - the hoses are meant to be pretty long and fitted over the top of the airbox. I didn't have enough tubing to do both, so experimented with different lengths, 4 inch lengths of 6mm bore with plastic pipe narrowing the ends to 4mm have completely cured the slight hesitation on/off throttle (would've been easier to fit 2 x1foot lengths of hose). The bottom end is stronger, really good smooth urge and the mid/high rev performance is as good as ever - 'kin result..
I think the big cv carbs are sensitive to the vent hoses, especially when the bike starts to be altered from standard, as when it was standard, it was pretty smooth - if heavy and not that powerful.
Sorry I didn't take any photos - the vents are the upper ones between 1/2 and 3/4 carbs, they keep the float bowls at atmospheric pressure, I guess the standard hoses cause a slight restriction/damping effect compared with open vents.
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All swappable H, the world's your oyster !
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Top man Mac ! - your patience and work should pay off with a neat , trouble free conversion.
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1127 engine, has small cams which limited rwhp to just under 100hp - heavy beasty, but pulled well from tick over. GSX1100F cams would add a shove but keep the grunty delivery... just thinking ahead !
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Could be many things Bud, sounds like a wiring fault - could be a bad earth strap, corroded terminals, damaged loom. It needs a session with a multi-meter to see where the problem is - or if electrics aren't your favourite thing, you'll have to get an auto/motorcycle electrical specialist to check it over - if you have a friendly electrician, they should be able to spot the problem with the help of a wiring diagram etc. It maybe components, but it sounds like a wiring fault.
Good luck !
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Not too much has happened in oil cooler design since our engines were made - oil still loses heat at the same rate too - you can increase the surface area of the cooler though, eg. the Slingshot GSXRs had a curved oil cooler that had a greater surface area , alterations probably need to be made if you fit a larger cooler. Our bike's oil coolers help with heat control, but most of the cooling will be from the engine fins. Unless you live in a hot part of the world, or your engine is heavily tuned, the original size works okay - fitting a larger cooler isn't going to hurt though, some modded motors have a second cooler fitted.
I was just writing a reply and saw the good man, FBOB , had replied - he's done plenty of builds using the trusty OC engines.
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Nylon's great - the slides and runners wear a bit - but the needle and spacer are held in place by the spring as you say - nice work.
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I reckon that would be the X rated video GSX ! - with Jim Whitham saying ' fooking hell' a lot...!
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I've got an Armstrong BKR820 rear disc - it fits Slingshot 750/1100 onward and B12s , plus others - all 240mm od and the bolt spacing is the same, even the GSXR750L2 rear wheel I've got has the same bolt spacing, so I could use the BKR820 disc and original hanger bracket etc - sorted !
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That's close Mac - might add a bit more resistance via the loom ..... no worries for a Slingshot, anyone done this to their Slabby ? - would be best to get input from someone who's put some miles on the earlier version . There's scope in everything on our bikes , you'd think that would be okay - someone ? - I have heard of someone fitting a resistor to give a middle reading.
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Just watched this, thought a few others might enjoy it too - had been looking around for this video for a while and found a good chap has posted it on youtube.
I don't know where they got the weight figures from - the wet weights should be cbr - 457 lbs 1100N - 547lbs - still a massive difference and to be fair the cbr did feel very light back then. I think Keith Huewen quoted the Gurls blouse at pretty much it's claimed dry weight - 185kg or 407lbs.
here's the link
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She's a looker - the colours suit the bike really well ..... good choice with the housekeeping money, okay you might get a bit hungry, but look at that exhaust !!! worth a grumbling stomach any day. The trouble with food is that it only lasts a short while, whereas the exhaust is the gift that keeps on giving - shitty horrible day outside - no problem, polish the bike and look contentedly at your exhaust....
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Got to be careful which coils you buy/how many ohms they'll give you when fitted in series Mac. Slabbies' cdi boxes are made to have coils that have 3 - 5 ohms of resistance, Slingshots are made for 2.4 - 3.2 ohms (there will be a bit of tolerance though). If the coils you've bought don't have enough resistance, you will risk frying your ignitor box. The early GSXR K1 - K5 type stick coils are fine for Slingshots/B12s and are about the right length - the srad stick coils for example have a lower resistance. Make sure you measure the resistance at the terminals of the mini-loom you make for the stick coils, if it's in the ballpark then you're good to go.
I did a bit of research and measurements before I did my conversion a few years ago, the new version works well - but be careful which coils are used and measure what you've got before starting your bike. I used the dust covers from the top of the original plug caps, opened them up a bit and fitted them to the stick coils - this keeps the coils from rattling lose. I don't use the screw on cap on my plugs.
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Not sure about the tail (can't see much), but is that an ally tank he's got there ? - that's my next project........ hmmm, I like aluminium tanks !
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Some very good advice given - has to be intake side, could be air leaking in via seals in intake boots/pilot screw seals (often doesn't show when balancing carbs) - or as been suggested, pilot system/float height etc - what colour are the spark plugs on 3 & 4 ?
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Sounds like you have a rich stumble, with it getting worse with increasing temperature.
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A very smart machine Blue - what's been done to the engine ?
Stick coil diagram
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Early GSXR1000/750/600 K series coils all work on Slingshots (GSR600 coils are the same as 600/750k4/5 too - so are fine) , they give correct resistance when wired in series - actually there's many others, like Triumph TT600 etc., but I like keeping to the early/mid K coils - SRAD coils have too low a resistance and I think the redesigned GSXR600/750 K6 onwards engine used different rated coils too. Always check how many ohms you have at the new loom terminals before you fit everything - should be in within spec : 2.4 - 3.2 ohms