Peterv

handy cheers mate

I don't do carbo wrap Tony its the real deal..

Cheers dave , I'll keep you in mind when I start the build I will make a list of all the things I need , we can agree on a price , and ship all at once.. cos you funny lot no being part of the EU no more (and how I wish we did the same..) shipping from EU to UK and virsa versa is a real rip off.. They charge me 21% taxes and 18 euro custom fee's on top of the shipping ...those Eu beaurocrats are screwing us over like there's no tomorrow.. cheers Peter

Yeah that is what I read also over here , about the airbox , thing is , it has these chrome sidecovers , and I absolutely HATE chrome on a bike (a chopper isn't a motorbike baby...;-) and take away these covers and it just looks like a big lump of plastic.. Also when I put the bike back on the road it has to be Mot'd again , and with all these EU inviromental shit I don't know if it will pas without an airbox.. I think I should take it firts there and then do the airbox , but then the engin needs to drop ..if all is painted and such ..not a nice option.. I do some carbon work on the side , maybe I'll take mold of these chrome things and replace them with carbon , I'm sure there is a market for these aswell.. cheers Peter

Cheers Tony I will keep this foto as reference for my build.. Is there a reason you kept the airbox on the bike? I did read that they are all but impossible to remove.. But I think they look ugly and heavy... a couple of K&N 's and a stage kit would surely liven up the party... Peter

I don't think I will modify the frame Tony , I would have to cut the beams on the top of the frame , and so will drasticly weaken the frame , cos on the top beams is where all the strengt is... I think it would be easyer to fit a inazuma engine in a ET frame , but there is about 20 years of frame technology between a ET and a inazuma..and we all know the 80's jap frame reputation ...Martin , Bakker and other frame builders did good business then.. cheers Peter

I allready got the ET tail and taillight , guilianni saddle , Paul , if all tanks fail (modefieing a et tank or a 1400)maybe I would look in a efe tank but not the complete EFE bodywork.

that's an understatement Tony this bike is stunning.., but this is a complete makeover , tank , seat , fairing , sidepanels , the lot..I'm just trying to get a 80's look ET ..

the centerdistance looks to be 40mm Daz , could very well be the bandits are a bit larger

cheers Tony , most afermarket footrest are for a bandit , make sense cos of the sale numbers.. Not looking for the katana look Tony , and aren't they as rare as hen's teeth by now??

nope cut clean thru in the middle and then connector clamp type of joins.. also stripped of the outer hose and all taped together with cellutape , not clean at all..

Hello Folks wanne do a major overhaul on a misused/raped Inazuma (someone made chopper out of it) I posted the pictures here before.. I know lots of engine parts are the same from oil cooled gsxr and bandit but I have other parts to be hoarded so I can begin .. the peg assy's are no longer there because the dude made a forword control unit , so wich assy's can be used , ? are the bandit's interchangeble ? or even the GSXR one's? I would like to have a pair of nice second hand fancy aftermark items , not the boring oem stuff.. so this is mostely done on bandit's and gsxr's The left and right handle control units have been cut and lenghtend by half a meter to get this ape hang handlebar mounted...(don't ask..) So I wont cut them again and solder the lot togheter , wich really is a breakdown waiting to happen..they are about 50 euro a pair so just need to know if they are the same on the bandit/gsxr and also the water cooled models? I noticed there is a choke lever on the left swith unit.. The headers seem heavy aswell , I have my eye on a COMPLETE devil 4-2-1 system , from a oil cooled gsxr , the headers should be no problem me thinks , but will the rest have the clearance under and of the side off the bike? Did someone mount a header or a complete system from an early gsxr1000 aswell , they have standard oem titanium headers wich are being sold at the moment for the price of scrap metal..don't know if they have the same spacing or clear the engine at the bottom thouw.. also don't like the tank , to ballooney for me , will a gsx1400 tank fit with not lots of trouble? (I'm working on a gsx1100et tank to fit at the moment but have lots of issues..) cheers Peter cheers Peter

Thanx Joseph But I also have a non rusted spear tank , just to be sure... But I'm on quest... I hope to get this one closed and good for life... after I closed it up I will do the inside with a anti rust treatment and fuel liner . her I am sofar..the bottom plate is reworked with new 0.8mm sheet metal wich I hard solderd on , using silver as a bond and the copper/silver to fill up bigger gaps I have no tig/mig welding devises at my disposel , but hard soldering is very commen on repairing steel gastanks It uses not as much heat as you would flame weld , so the material does not deform as much also.. here I am so far

Yeah tony I got this one for free.... I need to sharpen up my sheet metal skills anaway.. If all goes pear shaped nothing lost..only the wiser cheers Peter

Hello Guys I am restoring a quite rusted gastank from an ET model.. I am gonne use it on my inazuma/et build. I know I will have to modify the tank to fit the inazuma frame aswell.. I have no petcock for this tank and wonderd what you guys are using for replacement.. I recon after 40 odd years those thing needed replacement anyhow... The one currently in my inazuma has differant mounting dimensions (45mm instead of 50mm) the inazuma one (needed for my inazuma carbs) has just the on/off and reserve setting..no vacuum tube model. Here is the work so far.. I managed to remove the stuck bolt aswell from the petcock mounting.

yep just googeld the TLR one , it's braced at he right side...(underside).... a very good contender !!! the R1 I have noticed aswell , but the right handed side has a deep undercut for the exhaust to go under the seat.. would look awkward with a standard system.. cheers Peter

cheers Guys It seems like all the swingarms with the standard double suspension set up , kinda all look alike...as expexted.. I was hoping for a more exotic look like the new swingarms on modern bikes(with a 80's touch) , but they all have the bulky top re-enforcements , making impossible for a twin shock to be mounted , unless you do some real cutting , and maybe do more harm then good.... I think I'm gonne have to bite the bullet and will have to (let) weld some suspension mountig brackets on afterwards If I like to be a bit "differant" I also like the zrx on'es , but....I allready got such a bike in my garage (also a project that is waiting on retirement time...) FYI I make carbon parts for the ZRX community, selling them world wide , so my free time is mostley "eaten " up by this hobby... with the freezing cold over here aswell (garage bearly heated) , I've been busy looking up some contenders , and this one tiks all the boxes.. beefy , a bit more design then the staight beams , comes from a early 90's fzr1000 , so same time period as the azuma , just need to know the dimensions for comparison

these look sure enough more beefy to me.. @tony I recon you'ld welded some suspension brackets on the arm , the GSXR surely came with a monoshock.. cheers Peter

Hello Guys Peter with the most ugly oilcooled bike in the world..lol Before I start my majer overhaul , I am (like most of you..) hoarding all parts before I start my build.. I was looking at the parts neede changing and noticed the swing arm was a bit , well boooooring is the word.. I'm sure t does it work as supposed to (strong enough for my purposes) but a bit more street cred could be used.. I'm gonne coat all shiney bits in tuff black anyway , so best to see what's possible to do before I coat it all.. Not looking for a single damper set up as I want to keep the double suspension look , I also have no aluminium welding capacity , so kinda stuck with that aswell.. show me what you got..or have seen.. This is my set up

ok above doe'snt meane shite to me aswell , just a typial engineer's take on things.. so making it more difficult to read then it allready is.. this read I found more clearing.. https://www.autonationmobileservice.com/blog/throttle-position-sensor/ it's basicly a ignition advancer/retarder to let you burn the fuel more efficiently , me thinks more of a eco-thing , I never heard of people noticing it when its disconnected or malfunctioning.. cheers Peter

here's wikipedia for ya... A throttle position sensor (TPS) is a sensor used to monitor the air intake of an engine. The sensor is usually located on the butterfly spindle/shaft, so that it can directly monitor the position of the throttle. More advanced forms of the sensor are also used. For example, an extra "closed throttle position sensor" (CTPS) may be employed to indicate that the throttle is completely closed. Some engine control units (ECUs) also control the throttle position by electronic throttle control (ETC) or "drive by wire" systems, and if that is done, the position sensor is used in a feedback loop to enable that control.[1] Related to the TPS are accelerator pedal sensors, which often include a wide open throttle (WOT) sensor. The accelerator pedal sensors are used in electronic throttle control or "drive by wire" systems, and the most common use of a wide open throttle sensor is for the kick-down function on automatic transmissions. Modern day sensors are non contact type. These modern non contact TPS include Hall effect sensors, inductive sensors, magnetoresistive and others. In the potentiometric type sensors, a multi-finger metal brush/rake is in contact with a resistive strip,[2] while the butterfly valve is turned from the lower mechanical stop (minimum air position) to WOT, there is a change in the resistance and this change in resistance is given as the input to the ECU. Non contact type TPS work on the principle of Hall effect or inductive sensors, or magnetoresistive technologies, wherein generally the magnet or inductive loop is the dynamic part which is mounted on the butterfly valve throttle spindle/shaft gear and the sensor & signal processing circuit board is mounted within the ETC gear box cover and is stationary. When the magnet/inductive loop mounted on the spindle which is rotated from the lower mechanical stop to WOT, there is a change in the magnetic field for the sensor. The change in the magnetic field is sensed by the sensor and the voltage generated is given as the input to the ECU. Normally a two pole rare-earth magnet is used for the TPS due to their high Curie temperatures required in the under-hood vehicle environment. The magnet may be of diametrical type, ring type, rectangular or segment type. The magnet is defined to have a certain magnetic field that does not vary significantly with time or temperature.

putted it on my Eblag watch list cheers

Heyy this looks even more oldschool then my Inazuma mudguard.. where did you get the metal mudguard from ? cheers Peter

I hear Delkevic also make nice aftermarket exhausts in the black widow price range..

it looks like youre bandit and the Inazuma have the same forks smirk..