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baldrick

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Posts posted by baldrick

    Harris Magnum 4 W

    in Trick Frames

    Posted

    i still remember seeing the very first mag4 frame at the ally pally show back in about 89 maybe.

    it becaome geriant shorts white and pink one.

    it looked stunning just hanging on the wall tbh.

     

    anyway i digress this is shaping up well Spike

     

    • Like 2

    GIA Katana

    in Trick Frames

    Posted

    On 3/3/2024 at 12:24 PM, Duckndive said:

    Frame was built by Al Smith well known TF Bike Rider ,  Fabricator and Engineer  :tu

    hes done a cracking job of it

    Carb identification help

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    if they are 40mm inlets then they are the right carbs for a 91 1100m model

    id be more worried about those filters, they never work right, do you still have the airbox?

    if so id fit it.

    Also the emulsion tube looks like its moving, which isnt good. id be taking them off for a strip down and check, persona;lly

    • Like 1

    gsxr 750L dimensions

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    hello. 

    im half way through painting my gsxr 750L.

    i was wondering if anyone has a standard paint job one, i could ask for some dimensions off

    im basically needing the fairing widths at the back and front, of the 3 stripes..

     

    any help appreciated. 

    ive got a std sidepanel so just need fairing sizes please.

    failing this ill just eyeball them, cheers

    magnum 2, gsxr 1340 build

    in Trick Frames

    Posted

    unfortunately i need the car to get around.  :|  my knees are v fuct and even on bike i cant go as far as id want to tbh...

    And if you think bike parts are expensive, headlight for this thing is near £1200 quid from bmw..luckily i found a 2nd hander for 300, but car parts are shockingly expensive. 

    • Like 1

    magnum 2, gsxr 1340 build

    in Trick Frames

    Posted · Edited by baldrick

    Well, I got the oilways cleaned out in the end. Decided to strip the rattle can shite off the engine, and use proper 2k base and lacquer, which I should have done in the first place.

    Progress is like a slug, on downers after a few bongs......slow.

    But engines in, front and back ends fitted, subbie etc electrics..almost within sight of the finish line

    It's now in the living room, and it's been sat for a couple of months, struggling to get carbs on, rubbers shrunk. Got new ones from chy-na..don't waste your money they're miles out. Tried heat, oil, ratchets, wintergreen, etc so I'm now trying sulking and calling them bad names every time I pass. I did fit footrest brackets, which were on the bike before but now have decided they won't fit....great. so I've just got some 10 mm alloy to craft some new ones. Probably just as well tbh the pegs are too high for my knackered knees so new ones will be 2 inch lower. Hopefully I'll fit on it.

    I'm rebuilding two cars atm , so not much time but I'm thinking it might hit the road some time in 2027 at this rate... FFS...

    Oh aye the cobra can doesn't fit now as it was mounted on the old engine mount, located in the frame cross member, but I changed it out for a thicker one when it started bending, due to the shock linkage stressing it. Bah , more work

    See u next year for another thrilling update

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    • Like 5

    Fuel tap options

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    the fuel lines are easily pinched, and some rubber lines restrict flow on bends...... the standard bike came with springs around the lines to prevent this. 

    im also using tygon lines, theyre a bit expensive, but worth it, as they dont solidify over time or degrade from the inside , over time, especially with the crappy fuel we have to put up with these days.

     

    anyway, good you got it sorted

    • Like 1

    Turbo kit cost.

    in Forced Induction

    Posted

    ive done some research and theres lots of people selling turbo kits, but not lots who understand exactly what they are doing. 

    and some kits are much better than others.

    Also might be fine and well sticking a turbo on, but if it was me, id want forged pistons, stronger rods and uprated clutch as a minimum.

    Also, id expect it to be nearer 3500 for gsxr kit or say 4500+ for busa or similar.

    cheap kits will just cause grief, ive seen a  fair few that dont last long or cause loads of headaches.

    if you get it fitted by someone reputable, like FBM, or Big cc, id say your chances of having to sort issues will be dramatically lowered.

    i know a guy who had a kawa fitted with one from a "specialist", in northern ireland, and had to van it back twice within a year of having it fitted, from the NE of Scotland!!!...and pay, to get issues ironed out/ sorted......thats put me off tbh

    • Like 4

    Yoke i.d please

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    Yes, I thought it was 750. I've still got the drawing for gsxr stem, but I doubt I'd use it, so I was looking to sell it on. 

    Would just be easier to know what it's off. 

     

    Yoke i.d please

    in Oil Cooled

    Posted

    i checked again its 235 from the top face of the bottom yoke to the end of the yoke stem. not 225mm mybad

    stem has a keyway or whatever its called for a steering lock, rhs approx 130mm up stem, from top face of btm yoke

    top of yoke stem has an internal female thread, approx m12

    it has 8mm of shim below the bottom bearing, so effective length of yoke is 227 ish.

    yes btm bearing ID is definitely 28mm

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