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Posts posted by baldrick
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yes i know but i was wondering if the ohlins shocks for gsxr 750/1000 fitted hayabussas
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Hi
Anybody know if shocks are interchangable between say gsxr 1000 and hayabusa?
thanks
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i look forward to seeing how you modify it, good luck, great find.....
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i am not certain but i doubt the bandit carbs would fit the std airbox, so i would go with a set of mikuni rs36 flatslide carbs, a decent exhaust, like the hindle, and a good flow/port of the head to let it breath.
the cams wont make a hugely noticable difference for the money, but if you insist, go with a set of kent "fast road" profile cams.
i wouldnt bother skimming the head or bigger valves, the returns are minimal compared to the cost
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can i ask, whats the benefit of a cable clutch over the hydraulic one, out of interest?
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just as an aside, the paint codes listed will draw nothing more than confused looks from most paint shops.
13L is a Mazda colour, for example, unless its a specific bike painters you wont get far.
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Just the warm glow of satisfaction, knowing you've helped a brother out.
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yeah ive had a look on bay, i think its maybe a early 600 bandit, fitted with an extender.
bandit 12 has flat mount on top this ones curved.
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4 hours ago, Jaydee said:
Nope, that's clearance for the primary gear.
Doh!
cheers for clearing that up, in all the years ive had these ive never even noticed before, worra nugget eh ?
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Too true.
I remember reading an article years ago about it and said tuner deemed it worthwhile, so I'm gonna do it.
Thanks for your answers.
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looks good, just needs a bit of a trim at the front maybe
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ive been waiting for a parcel sent on the 12th. my sympathy for them is going down the drain......get back to work you lazy caaaaaants
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hello, Way back in the midst of time i remember reading about some tuning houses "windowing "the bottom of the barrel liners, in an attempt to reduce pumping losses.
This usually involved die grinding, i presume, material off the liners, below the travel of the pistons, between 1 and 2 cyl and again between 3 and 4. this was in the shape of a sort of square/rectangle, with rounded corners iirc.
AFAIK, the idea was to reduce pumping losses and, allegedly, it did in fact help with power increases, although it was pretty marginal .
Anyone ever done thisor have any direct experience of what was involved, amount removed etc.
Cheers
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Good information, thanks.
I'll have to get looking for a decent set of barrels without the usual chipped fins etc.
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thanks fellas
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hi, im on the hunt for a set of barrels / pistons for a project, its a gsx-f 1100 engine.
just wondering what else fits it?
i think slabby ones are shorter arent they?
anyone know?
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r6 shock also works iirc
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Any recommendations for reboring?
Sorry for the hijack
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53 minutes ago, george 1100 said:
I just made the same mistake by following the APE stud installing method which says the torque the studs into the block meaning they will bottom out which leads to not enough thread for nut to go on. Against my better judgement, I didn't run the washers and ended up with a blown head gasket. Don't go there
so the studs are obviously too short if torqueing them down means not enough thread left up top?
or are you running spacer plates etc?
if not then whats the answer? Maybe threadlock the bottom studs, but dont torquue them, leaving enough thread up top? im asking because i have a set of these to install at some point/#?
Italianeze Technoloy
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted · Edited by baldrick
how did it go on the dyno mate, what sort of bhp did you see?
brave move using the standard loom, i was dicking about with mine and couildnt get over how thin guage a load of wires on it were.
i also found a few that were broken inside the sheathing...they were fun to find...not.