Ben Slabby
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Posts posted by Ben Slabby
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VM33's
in Oil Cooled
Yup. They work well on the 1052 once they've been bored.
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Photobucket is having a bit of a wobbler lately apparently.
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What shock? OE?
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Keys
in Oil Cooled
Sure. If you're bothered for an original key, dealers can supply OEM blanks.
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Keys
in Oil Cooled
Just buy a blank and get it cut?
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Seen the bolt-on jobs around, don't know if I'd trust them though. Someone on here should be able to make you them if that's the route you're looking at. @Gsxrsam should be able to help.
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Imho, slabby. Lighter and (eek) better looking. Though others will disagree.
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Silicone.
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Head gaskets and such I'd go with OE, lot of work to tear it down again if it fails. Sump and clutch/starter/pickup cover gaskets, I've never had a problem with pattern ones.
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Toooooo big. Bit big for the 11 really, unless you're really booting it everywhere.
They can be made to work, but i think it'll kill bottom end.
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Oh, gods. Stand by for the oil argument...
Never used fully-synth in my oil boilers, semi-synthetic at most, straight mineral if I can find it.
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Cheers FBOB.
I normally just search part numbers but it's a bloody nightmare from a phone.
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Think that's right, can anyone confirm they're the same and will interchange? What spacers are needed? Spanks.
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As title, just a stem swap or bearing change? Cheers.
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Ok, so I'm going this route now. (cheers KM)
Any pointers gratefully accepted, stand by for swearing and busted knuckles and flying tools.
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What Rene said. Mine is fitted with two sets, had the same issue but it's down to someone ballsing the threads on the exhaust ports up. Works fine.
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I'm fairly sure I'm right here, run through it a couple of times, but can anyone just confirm that the following will work. Seems too easy...
SRAD 750 front wheel into tl1000 forks (I know the TL forks are slightly longer) with TL/SRAD 50-54 yokes. I assume the yokes are the same spacing cos the TL/SRAD/Busa all use the same front wheel. Ta peeps.
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You'll be losing pressure if there's any leaks at all. The hydraulic clutch on my slabby is pretty iffy too, the slaves seem to leak quite easily. Usually takes a few pumps of the lever if it's been stood a while.
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Ooh, yeah. I'll start packing.
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Not familiar with the keihins, but if it's flooding the bowls, check float heights, see if the float valves or seats are worn, also check any o-rings associated with the float valves.
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4 hours ago, captain chaos said:
or put it on the sidestand and remove the right side cover where the ingition pick-up is
just make sure it'd in neutral and not in gear
Yeah. This would be easier. Head up my arse sometimes.
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Try whipping the starter cover off and gently turning it over with a socket on the starter clutch nut first. If you lean it as far over to the right as you can, you shouldn't lose any oil.
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As others have said, check your earth connections between engine and frame. If it's good, (to bare metal, no paint or rust, etc.) I'd suspect the battery. The starter is only held on by a couple of bolts at the bottom rear of the housing, if you're concerned it's stuck, take it off and check it's free.
If te clutch isn't disengaging, it's either poorly adjusted or stuck. You can deal with that once it's running.
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No resistor in powerscreen loom. Check your connections, test with a multimeter and see if you've got power to the CDI/coils. Check ground connections, etc. If all else fails, bridge the red and orange wires at the ignition switch connection on the loom and try again.
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VM33's
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Ben Slabby
Or if you decide to get rid...
